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2021 Etoiles de Mondorion
9/7/2023 - Gabriel Geller Likes this wine: 88 Points
Château Mondorion, Etoiles de Mondorion, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, 2021: Deep ruby appearance. The nose is clean, with notes of blackberries, black currants, wet earth, tobacco leaves, and a hint of bell pepper. Medium-bodied, medium intensity. On the palate, tart blackberries, graphite, some earthiness, a touch hollow on the mid-palate, some bell pepper, licorice, with notes of roasted coffee beans and mushrooms, medium acidity, and medium tannins and some cigar on a medium finish. Pleasant but the challenging vintage comes through very clearly. 12.5% Abv. Drink 2024-2029. 88+
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2021 Château Royaumont
8/2/2023 - Gabriel Geller Likes this wine: 91 Points
Château Royaumont, Lalande-de-Pomerol, 2021: This kosher label of Château Lagravière was first produced in 2002. I gotta say that except for the 2013, I’ve been a fan of all vintages so far. I must confess that I was quite worried about the 2021. First of all, it’s undoubtedly the least successful Bordeaux vintage since 2013. Most of the entry to mid-level kosher 2021 Bordeaux I’ve tasted are mediocre at best. Secondly, for the first time the US allocation for this wine was made entirely mevushal. Now, while this is one of a handful of medium-high ($40-80) Bordeaux to have gone through the process with varying degrees of success since 2015, the combination with this difficult vintage was not very exciting on paper, to say the least. Good news, though. This is mevushal done well. Clear ruby red in color, medium intensity. The nose is pronounced with medium-plus intensity, clean, showing notes of raspberries, blackberries, with secondary notes of tobacco and cedar. Medium-bodied, dry, with on the palate slightly tart raspberries and blackberries, black plum skin, graphite, subtle earthy minerals, nice Cuban cigar, with high acidity and medium tannins that gently coat the gums and palate, with hints of espresso on the moderately long finish. Good balance, classic Lalande profile, young with good cellaring potential. Drinkable now with decanting but best 2027-2033, perhaps longer. 13.5% Abv. 91+
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2021 Domaine Raymond Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes
4/13/2023 - Gabriel Geller Likes this wine: 93 Points
Domaine Raymond Usseglio & Fils, Vieilles Vignes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2021: This wine is the kosher run of the Cuvée Impériale, a blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre from century-old vines. Deep ruby red towards royal purple in color. On the nose, smoke, black cherries, dried strawberries, wild blueberries with hints of salami, mushrooms and cigar box. Medium to full-bodied, medium-plus intensity, with a velvety texture. On the palate, primary notes of ripe red and blue fruit such as strawberries, juicy red cherries and ripe wild blueberries, secondary notes of vanilla and pipe tobacco, followed by tertiary notes of beef prosciutto, seared mushrooms, with hints of rosemary, medium acidity, with notes of dark chocolate covered coffee beans and chewy, mouth-coating tannins on a long, generous and elegant finish. Outstanding. While this is admittedly delicious now with decanting, yet mostly on the primary fruit as expected, the balance and structure indicate that it will evolve well with aging. 13.5% Abv. Drink 2029-2038, perhaps longer. 93-94.
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