Chanterelle, NYC
Tasted Thursday, August 24, 2006 by trankin with 1,181 views
On Thursday evening, Mark Golodetz organized a tasting with Jean-Luc Thunevin, the winemaker of Valendraud, at Chaterelle in NYC, which I was fortunate enough to attend. In addition to Jean-Luc's wines, the "other" theme was pre-1985 CA Cabs.
We had a great line-up with Jean-Luc pouring no fewer than 11 of his wines, including the fabulous Valandraud 2005, and that was followed up by 7 lovely older CA Cabs.
Chanterelle, which I had never been to, did a great job. The food, while not always pairing well with the wines, was excellent, particularly what's apparently their signature chanterelle dish with fingerling potatoes and a sunny-side up quail egg.
I had the pleasure of sitting next to Jean-Luc which allowed me, when my brain could process fast enough, to learn much about his winemaking philosophy and the current state of affairs in Bordeaux. Too bad my French isn't a little better - could have been an amazingly educational experience, beyond what was already a wonderful evening.
One big caveat up front - my experience with bordeaux barrel samples is essentially nil, and my experience with older CA cabs is quite limited, so you should take most of these notes with a big grain of salt.
I did not expect this wine to be poured, but I really enjoyed trying it. Such beauty, finesse, and balance. And such power.
With all that's been said and written about 2005 Bordeaux, if this wine is in any way an indication of what's been produced, I have to say I'm very much looking forward to enjoying these wines for a very long time.
2 lovely whites from Valandraud. I have to say I did not understand the explanation of the difference between the #1 and the #2. Hopefully someone who speaks better French than I can chime in with that.
A few lovely, very affordable reds produced by Jean-Luc.
I have to say I was a little surprised that I didn't like the 3 de Valandraud 01 or the Valandraud 02 more than I did, but these were my impressions. Others definitely liked the 02 Valandraud much more than I did. I just couldn't get past the green-ness.
Again - my experience with CA Cabs of this maturity is very limited, but I really enjoyed drinking these wines.
The Gemello was a great treat - I thought I had found my wine of the night. Until the last 3 wines were poured.
These were all just beautiful wines. I thought the Diamond Creek was just wonderful, and it was so much younger than I would have expected.
But for drinking today, for my palate, the 78 Stag's Leap was the clear winner. Others (including Jean-Luc) picked the Mayacamas as their favorite among the CA Cabs.
A wonderful dinner and some excellent wines.
2005 Château Valandraud 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
The nose is wonderful - thick, rich and briary. On the palate, this is a wonderful, complete wine with beautiful fruit, a nice peppery touch, silky tannins. Quite elegant despite the youth and immensity of this wine. Velvety really. Finish goes on & on. Really a joy to drink.
I have essentially no experience with barrel samples of bordeaux so take these comments for what they're worth. This wine to me was a stunner. It's been said by so many others, but the best way I can think to describe it is that it had so much of everything, and all in perfect harmony. I gave it 95+ but I have no idea really what I'll think of this when it's bottled. But if this tasting was any indication, this is going to be one beautiful wine.
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