Jean-Luc Thunevin Dinner

Chanterelle, NYC
Tasted Thursday, August 24, 2006 by trankin with 1,181 views

Introduction

On Thursday evening, Mark Golodetz organized a tasting with Jean-Luc Thunevin, the winemaker of Valendraud, at Chaterelle in NYC, which I was fortunate enough to attend. In addition to Jean-Luc's wines, the "other" theme was pre-1985 CA Cabs.

We had a great line-up with Jean-Luc pouring no fewer than 11 of his wines, including the fabulous Valandraud 2005, and that was followed up by 7 lovely older CA Cabs.

Chanterelle, which I had never been to, did a great job. The food, while not always pairing well with the wines, was excellent, particularly what's apparently their signature chanterelle dish with fingerling potatoes and a sunny-side up quail egg.

I had the pleasure of sitting next to Jean-Luc which allowed me, when my brain could process fast enough, to learn much about his winemaking philosophy and the current state of affairs in Bordeaux. Too bad my French isn't a little better - could have been an amazingly educational experience, beyond what was already a wonderful evening.

One big caveat up front - my experience with bordeaux barrel samples is essentially nil, and my experience with older CA cabs is quite limited, so you should take most of these notes with a big grain of salt.

Flight 1 - The Beautiful Centerpiece (1 Note)

I did not expect this wine to be poured, but I really enjoyed trying it. Such beauty, finesse, and balance. And such power.

With all that's been said and written about 2005 Bordeaux, if this wine is in any way an indication of what's been produced, I have to say I'm very much looking forward to enjoying these wines for a very long time.

  • 2005 Château Valandraud 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    The nose is wonderful - thick, rich and briary. On the palate, this is a wonderful, complete wine with beautiful fruit, a nice peppery touch, silky tannins. Quite elegant despite the youth and immensity of this wine. Velvety really. Finish goes on & on. Really a joy to drink.

    I have essentially no experience with barrel samples of bordeaux so take these comments for what they're worth. This wine to me was a stunner. It's been said by so many others, but the best way I can think to describe it is that it had so much of everything, and all in perfect harmony. I gave it 95+ but I have no idea really what I'll think of this when it's bottled. But if this tasting was any indication, this is going to be one beautiful wine.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

Flight 2 - The Whites (2 Notes)

2 lovely whites from Valandraud. I have to say I did not understand the explanation of the difference between the #1 and the #2. Hopefully someone who speaks better French than I can chime in with that.

  • 2005 Blanc de Valandraud No. 2 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux

    50% Semillon, 50% Sauv Blanc. The nose is extremely floral - like the scent you get when you stick your nose right into a flower when it's pollinating. On the palate, grapefruit and melon, with elegant flowers, great acid, and a bit of oak. Clearly SB-driven.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

  • 2004 Blanc de Valandraud No. 1 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux

    I had trouble describing this nose - Ultimately I went with pineapple, grapefruit, and some minerals. On the palate, this is more complex than the 2005. Great fruit - again grapefruit and pineapple seem to predominate. Less oaky than the 05. A lovely wine.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

Flight 3 - Some Reds (3 Notes)

A few lovely, very affordable reds produced by Jean-Luc.

  • 2004 Château de Carles 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Fronsac

    70% Merlot. Retails for $15 (or maybe that was 15 Euros). Nose of leather and some pepper. Lovely, rounded fruit. A bit simple, but very enjoyable. Great QPR.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

  • 2003 Haut-Carles 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Fronsac

    Much bigger nose than the Chateau de Carles, with plenty of white pepper. On the palate, a bit of spice. Deep, dark, red and purple fruits - plums and other scents as well. Nice spicy red fruits - you can taste the heat of the vintage. A nice wine. Retails for $30 I'm told.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

  • 2001 Clos Badon Thunevin 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion

    Earthy sous-bois thing on the palate, with some pepper thrown in for good measure. Lovely sweet & tannic fruit with a some sense of structure despite being rather round. Some chocolate notes as well. An elegant wine.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

Flight 4 - More Reds (5 Notes)

I have to say I was a little surprised that I didn't like the 3 de Valandraud 01 or the Valandraud 02 more than I did, but these were my impressions. Others definitely liked the 02 Valandraud much more than I did. I just couldn't get past the green-ness.

Flight 5 - Californa Cabs Flight 1 (4 Notes)

Again - my experience with CA Cabs of this maturity is very limited, but I really enjoyed drinking these wines.

The Gemello was a great treat - I thought I had found my wine of the night. Until the last 3 wines were poured.

  • 1976 Mayacamas Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 93 Points

    USA, California

    Dark red, with no bricking whatsoever. Amazing color for a 30 year old wine. The nose is all about gorgeous old cab, with wonderful fruit, some nice leather. Very nice. On the palate, it's an elegant wine with leather, fruit, tree bark, sous-bois. A rather dry structure. Evolves over the 30-40 minutes in the glass, with the leather becoming more predominant, the fruit darkening, and the acids emerging a bit. I liked this wine alot, but others liked this quite a bit more even than me. For several people it was the WOTN, at least among the CA's.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

  • 1970 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve 92 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    First bottle we opened was clearly past prime - very prunish and old. Opened a second bottle - much much better. Much nicer nose - still old and probably a touch past prime. Elegant palate of strawberries (without their acidity) and cherries - lovely red fruit.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

  • 1974 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 92 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Lovely, delicate nose of classic old cab, with a bit of pepper as well. On the palate, elegant fruit with a nice earthy/mossy sub-floor thing going on. Graphite, pencil lead - some real dark earth underneath the fruit.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

  • 1974 Gemello Cabernet Sauvignon 94 Points

    USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

    Nose of redwood and black pepper. On the palate, excellent fruit, tobacco, gorgeous spice. Beautiful cedar, redwood. Lengthy and persistent finish. Nice acids. Really lovely delicate cedar/redwood thing going on here. I'd never heard of this producer before and I was just blown away.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

Flight 6 - California Cabs Flight 2 (3 Notes)

These were all just beautiful wines. I thought the Diamond Creek was just wonderful, and it was so much younger than I would have expected.

But for drinking today, for my palate, the 78 Stag's Leap was the clear winner. Others (including Jean-Luc) picked the Mayacamas as their favorite among the CA Cabs.

Closing

A wonderful dinner and some excellent wines.

×
×