Modern Italian classics

This collection of modern day Italian classics were served in a Copenhagen Italian restaurant. Many of the wines belong to what may now be considered the old paradigm of French imitation and barrique but even if I myself tend to drink more neo-traditional Italians (like Burlotto or Montevertine), I was quite impressed and liked them all very much, with the possible exception of a Tenuta Nuova Brunello served blind and of unknown vintage (I thought it was said to be 2012 but that vintage is apparently not on the market yet). All the wines would presumably have benefitted from being tasted over longer time to allow them to show all their complexities. The notes are arranged in the order of serving.

• 2005 Ca' del Bosco Franciacorta Cuvée Annamaria Clementi

  Italy, Lombardia, Franciacorta DOCG

  This had soft fruit combined with minerality and brioche. Rather refined mousse and a vague and not unpleasant bitterness. Excellent.

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• 2012 Castello della Sala (Antinori) Umbria Cervaro della Sala

  Italy, Umbria

  Marvellous rich and expressive nose with butter and citrus. Much leaner in taste (also with less alcohol than expected: 12,5 %) with aged wood notes, not unlike traditional Riojas (which I love). Fine aftertaste. A bit puzzling, in a pleasing way.

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• 2008 Gaja Barbaresco

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Not very expressive and quite fiercely tannic. Too young or perhaps insufficiently aerated. Fine but kind of remote notes of dark fruit and tar but less polished than expected. Will surely be a fine food wine in time.

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• 2002 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia

  Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Sassicaia

  Warm, dark, velvety wine. Harmony and elegance, layered maturity. Excellent for a vintage which is presumably not very good generally.

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• 2005 Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Very dark for a nebbiolo and full of black fruit. Initially smooth and then quite a tannic attack. Precise and dense and ending in aromas of velvety refinement. I liked this much more than I had expected given my normal preference for the more red-fruited airy style of nebbiolo.

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• 2005 Soldera (Az. Agr. Case Basse) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Complex and beautiful, this opened up with meaty and organic aromas (including a hint of wet dog) and then moved on to spicy plum and cherry aromas with hints of Italian herbs. Fine aftertaste which somehow combines organic complexity and purity. Lovely now.

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• 2009 Romano Dal Forno Amarone della Valpolicella Vigneto di Monte Lodoletta

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella

  Extremely deep-coloured. This 16,5 % wine is overwhelming in a good way: Rich nose of Autumn leaves, raisins, grapes and tar, Thick in the mouth with a slight sweetness, lots of tannin and an extremely long aftertaste. Awesome. More black-fruited than I remember Quintarelli's Amarone to be.

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• 2003 Romano Dal Forno Passito Vigna Seré

  Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT

  Impenetrable colour and not very expressive nose. Smooth and medium sweet, densely textured and with notes of mature dark fruit, quite tannic. I loved it, like I love vintage port.

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