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Modern Italian classics

Copenhagen

Tasted January 29, 2016 by DK Amateur with 328 views

Introduction

This collection of modern day Italian classics were served in a Copenhagen Italian restaurant. Many of the wines belong to what may now be considered the old paradigm of French imitation and barrique but even if I myself tend to drink more neo-traditional Italians (like Burlotto or Montevertine), I was quite impressed and liked them all very much, with the possible exception of a Tenuta Nuova Brunello served blind and of unknown vintage (I thought it was said to be 2012 but that vintage is apparently not on the market yet). All the wines would presumably have benefitted from being tasted over longer time to allow them to show all their complexities. The notes are arranged in the order of serving.

Flight 1 (8 notes)

White - Sparkling
2005 Ca' del Bosco Franciacorta Cuvée Annamaria Clementi Italy, Lombardia, Franciacorta DOCG
This had soft fruit combined with minerality and brioche. Rather refined mousse and a vague and not unpleasant bitterness. Excellent.
White
2012 Castello della Sala (Antinori) Umbria Cervaro della Sala Italy, Umbria
Marvellous rich and expressive nose with butter and citrus. Much leaner in taste (also with less alcohol than expected: 12,5 %) with aged wood notes, not unlike traditional Riojas (which I love). Fine aftertaste. A bit puzzling, in a pleasing way.
Red
2008 Gaja Barbaresco Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Not very expressive and quite fiercely tannic. Too young or perhaps insufficiently aerated. Fine but kind of remote notes of dark fruit and tar but less polished than expected. Will surely be a fine food wine in time.
Red
2002 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Sassicaia
Warm, dark, velvety wine. Harmony and elegance, layered maturity. Excellent for a vintage which is presumably not very good generally.
Red
2005 Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Very dark for a nebbiolo and full of black fruit. Initially smooth and then quite a tannic attack. Precise and dense and ending in aromas of velvety refinement. I liked this much more than I had expected given my normal preference for the more red-fruited airy style of nebbiolo.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2005 Soldera (Az. Agr. Case Basse) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Complex and beautiful, this opened up with meaty and organic aromas (including a hint of wet dog) and then moved on to spicy plum and cherry aromas with hints of Italian herbs. Fine aftertaste which somehow combines organic complexity and purity. Lovely now.
Red
2009 Romano Dal Forno Amarone della Valpolicella Vigneto di Monte Lodoletta Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
Extremely deep-coloured. This 16,5 % wine is overwhelming in a good way: Rich nose of Autumn leaves, raisins, grapes and tar, Thick in the mouth with a slight sweetness, lots of tannin and an extremely long aftertaste. Awesome. More black-fruited than I remember Quintarelli's Amarone to be.
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Red - Sweet/Dessert
2003 Romano Dal Forno Passito Vigna Seré Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
Impenetrable colour and not very expressive nose. Smooth and medium sweet, densely textured and with notes of mature dark fruit, quite tannic. I loved it, like I love vintage port.
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