Bordeaux Update

The majority of wines in this tasting were from the 2005 vintage. I have made numerous comments on this vintage in various tasting event entries so I will not repeat them here. Suffice to say it is a superb vintage that I am very happy to own in quantity. The wines here certainly did not disappoint as there were numerous values and a few truly great efforts. The 06/07 wines specifically performed quite well considering the vintage conditions and prove just how serious the producers are with making quality wines every year. Unfortunately I wish I could say they are just as serious with their pricing schemes as most vintages of late have been ridiculously overpriced.

• 2008 Secret de Grand Bateau Blanc 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux

  This is beautiful in the glass with a high-toned nose of orange blossoms, pineapple, and minerals. Heavy citrus flavors buttressed by oak and spices on the finish. Great acidity and density with a medium long finish. Rumored to be declassified juice from Haut Brion and it does show hints of that class.

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• 2005 Château Latour-Martillac Blanc 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  The nose is very stony and pungent here with aromas of sweet musk, honeysuckle, and stone fruits. Subtle sweetness to the fruit with citrus and mineral flavors. Elegant with solid character if somewhat thin on the finish.

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• 2005 Château de L'Abbaye de Saint-Ferme Les Vignes Du Soir 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur

  Plummy ripe aromas of dark berries and spices. That character carries over to the palate, which has sweet plum and dark berry fruit. The tannins are firm and combine with good acidity for solid structure at this level. This would be a solid wine even at list price and it is downright insane for six bucks.

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• 2005 Château Gigault Cuvée Viva 87 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux

  Very pleasant on the nose with dark berries, leaves, and cherries. Plenty of heady ripe fruit and tannins. This seems somewhat one-dimensional but it delivers plenty of fruit and structure.

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• 2005 Manoir de Gay 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  A drop dead gorgeous nose of ripe berries, spices, and sweet flowers. Subtle elegant fruit on the palate with restrained tannins and nice length. This has an intriguing slate or clay tone to the flavors and it has tremendous lift on the finish. A very solid effort, this, like the second wine of Clos L’Eglise, really delivers in 2005.

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• 2005 Saintayme 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Very subtle and sweet on the nose with aromas of blackberry, plum, and spices. This has a very full mouthfeel with sweet fruit flavors of plum and spices. Good structure and edge for this level.

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• 2005 Château Les Gravières 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Wonderful complexity here with a stony edge to the aromas of berry, plum, earth, and spices. Really great on the palate as well with fresh plum and berry fruit. The structure is substantial but not overpowering and really gives superb texture throughout. Saint-Émilion was really great in 2005 and this does not disappoint.

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• 2006 Château Fleur Cardinale 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Offering more of a high-toned texture to the aromas here with raspberry, plum, and black cherry. The fruit is slightly thin and restrained but that elegance is attractive. The structure is firm from the tannins and acidity. This is pretty but seems to lack a little fruit density to match the structure.

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• 2006 Château Pavie Macquin 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Gorgeous high-toned and pure aromas such as plum, blackberry, oak, and crushed stones. Wow this is really great on the palate with ripe delicate fruit, firm tannins, and bracing acidity. The structure is dark but the fruit matches well because of its substantial yet elegant nature. This is a really great effort for the vintage.

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• 2005 Le Haut Medoc de Branaire-Ducru 87 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

  Pretty and straightforward with aromas of red currant, berries, and tobacco. The palate offers detailed earthen laced fruit matched with firm yet balanced tannins. Trails a little bit at the finish but a solid effort for this price point.

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• 2005 Château Olivier 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  This has trademark Pessac character on the nose; it just oozes with stones, scorched earth, and black currant. That quality transfers well to the palate, which offers flavors of earth, currant, and blackberry. The fruit is pronounced but elegant and matches really well with the structure. Superb.

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• 2005 Château de Fieuzal 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  High-toned and complex on the nose with aromas of tobacco, raspberry, herbs, and currant. Tremendous density and ink on the palate with heady herbs, currant, and berry. The tannins are firm, giving tremendous structure, so I would definitely put this one away for a while. 91+

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• 2007 Château Haut-Bailly 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Subtle earth and fruit on the nose with great ripeness for the vintage. The aromas consist of tobacco, currant, and berries. The palate has a smooth mouthfeel with good lift and sweetness to the red currant and berry fruit. The tannins are very supple and the fruit fades slightly on the finish. This is obviously much more restrained and delicate than the other wines in this tasting but it is a wonderful wine to drink today.

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• 2005 Château Langoa Barton 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Very pretty and pure on the nose with aromas of red berries, currant, and flowers. The palate offers gorgeous red fruit flavors of currant, plum, and stones. The ripeness is ideal here with no edges at all to the fruit. The tannins are firm yet approachable, which bodes well for the future of this wine. This is likely somewhat closed so I can only imagine it will get even better. 92+

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• 2005 Château Haut-Bages Averous 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Quite subdued on the nose with delicate aromas of cherries and berries. The fruit is pleasant but restrained on the palate with notes of earth and currant. This has nice elegance but it seems too monotonous and lacking in density.

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• 2005 Château Haut-Batailley 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  There are wonderful aromas here such as earth, stones, currant, and berries. The palate may be even better with heady pencil shavings that lace the subtle berry fruit. This really delivers with unique flavors, wonderful elegance, tremendous complexity, and bracing structure.

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• 2002 Château d'Armailhac 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Seemingly quite restrained but solid nonetheless, this offers tobacco, currant, and herbs on the nose. Very earth driven on the palate with good fruit and firm structure. This is not as hard as you might expect from the vintage but it does thin out slightly on the finish.

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• 2003 Clos Les Lunelles 87 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

  Ripe and heady aromas jump out of the glass here offering plum, berry, oak, spices, and stones; more red than black in tone. Glossy, toasty, and alcoholic on the palate with flavors of berry, currant, and leaf. Solid for the style but I think I am moving in the other direction.

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• 2005 Château Coutet Barsac 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

  Exceedingly charming and complex on the nose here with delicate flowers, preserved lemons, pineapple, mango, and stone fruits. Glossy and super seductive on the palate with gobs of detailed flavors such as agave nectar, honey, botrytis spice, and apple pie. If there is one criticism to be said this is a touch fat but it is superb nonetheless with great complexity and effortlessness on the finish.

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