Old Burgundy dinner at home

London
Tasted Sunday, March 13, 2011 by Captain Haddock with 641 views

Introduction

This dinner gathered mostly committed old Burgundy lovers, including a Burgundy producer, his importer, a wine merchant, a wine critic, a restaurant critic and various sharp-palated amateurs.

After an apéritif from the Mosel, the first four courses of our meal were served with pairs of red Burgundies. A lovely pair of sweet wines accompanied our pudding. I vaguely remember opening a half bottle of a 1971 Mosel sweet wine for the hardcore survivors around the table, and I may or may not have served some of Captain Haddock's famous sloe gin for the truly brave. The main event was a series of red Burgundies which, thankfully, mostly lived up to their potential, and showed the ageability of the best pinot noir.

Flight 1 - Apéritif (1 Note)

Blinis with soured cream, smoked salmon, lemon, black pepper and chives. Toasted brioche with foie gras.

Flight 2 - A pair of 1978s served blind (2 Notes)

These were the only wines we tasted blind. We served them with a pastilla with orange zest sauce, toasted flaked almonds and fresh coriander.

Flight 3 - 1989 Trapet Grand Crus (2 Notes)

Opinions were divided on which was the best wine. As the wines sat in the glass, a consensus formed around teh Chambertin which grew and blossomed in the glass, while the Latricières hardened somewhat. These wines were served with a warm salad of smoked thyme-infused duck breast, beetroot, sugar snap peas, cherry tomatoes, red onions and pine nuts.

  • 1989 Domaine Trapet Latricières-Chambertin 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru

    Lively garnet colour with clear bricking. More evolved than the 1989 Chambertin from the same producer served alongside. Leathery, barnyardy nose (Roy said it was too bretty for his taste but Frédéric thought is was clean as a whistle - go figure!), peppery on the palate, with beautiful dark fruit and a hint of furniture polish. Initially this had more character and energy than the Chambertin but, as it faded slightly in the glass, the Chambertin grew and outclassed it, to my mind. Still, an excellent bottle.

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  • 1989 Domaine Trapet Chambertin 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru

    The colour showed the merest hint of age. The nose was quite closed to start with but, as it developed in the glass, turned out glorious, with a flowery side on top of sweet incensey notes. Sweet cherry and other dark red fruit and a velvety texture. Long finish. Beautiful wine.

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Flight 4 - The 1960s (2 Notes)

These wines were served with roast fillet of beef with Captain Haddock sauce, wild cep risotto and roast winter vegetables.

Flight 5 - Necrophiles' paradise (2 Notes)

This memorable pair was served with delicious cheeses from Neal's Yard.

Flight 6 - Pudding (2 Notes)

Our pudding was a traditional bûche de Noël - a shortcrust pastry base with sponge and buttercream icing with a touch of Grand Marnier.

Flight 7 - A dimly recollected postscript (1 Note)

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