CT Bordeaux Trip 2011 - Day 1 (France, Bordeaux, Pauillac)

Tasted Monday, May 23, 2011 by grafstrb with 1,088 views

Flight 1 - Pontet Canet (2 Notes)

Pontet Canet has 81 ha under vine: 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. The average vine age is 45 years, with the youngest vines being 5 years old, and the oldest being 75 years old. Pontet Canet is quite proud of the fact that they have organic and biodynamic certifications on all of their 81 ha. Pontet Canet is the only one of the 61 Grand Cru Classe cahteaux to have biodynamic certification. Pontet Canet currently employs four horses, which help them plow 24 ha; they hope to eventually employ 10 – 12 horses, so that all of their holdings can be worked by horse. Apparently it took some time for the field workers to come around to the idea of working the vineyards with horses instead of machines, but their attitudes quickly changed when visitors to the chateau routinely took their pictures while working in the vines with the horses.

Pontet Canet uses large oak vats (110 hectoliters) with medium toast, and allows their wine to undergo natural yeast fermentations. 80% of PC’s production goes into their Grand Vin, with the remaining 20% going into their second wine. The Grand Vin spends 16 months in barrel, whereas the second wine spends only 12 months in barrel.

During our visit, we tasted a 2010 barrel sample, as well as the 2005 from 750mL.

  • 2005 Château Pontet-Canet 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    -- popped and poured --
    -- tasted a single pour non-blind over 5 – 10 minutes --
    -- 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot --

    NOSE: expressive; plum; cinnamon; hint of black raspberry on the finish; a completely beguiling and intoxicating Nose. Stunning.

    TASTE: intense palate of purple berries shows incredible balance: nice acidity, ample tannins, and the 13% alc. is not noticeable. Finish was long, but not very intense as this wine is still wound quite tightly. Really a gorgeous wine. This was one of my favorite wines of the entire trip. My score may be a tidge conservative.

    B: 50, 5, 14, 18, 9 = 96

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  • 2010 Château Pontet-Canet

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    -- tasted a single pour non-blind over 5 – 10 minutes --
    -- barrel sample --
    -- 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot –

    Very oaky on the Nose, with gentle wafts of flowers and a hint of Bdx. funk in the background. The palate is extremely tannic, with lots of purple berries and a hint of red berries. Quite hard at this point in time. Finish was long.

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Flight 2 - Lynch Bages (2 Notes)

Lynch Bages takes its name from two sources:
1. Bages is the name of the village in which the property is located;
2. Lynch is the name of the first family who owned the property.
The Cazes family bought the estate in 1933, and still owns the property today.

Lynch Bages’ holdings are comprised of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. In contrast to Pontet Canet, where wine temperatures are checked manually, Lynch Bages controls wine temperature by computer, and they also perform 2 – 3 pump-overs per day. Lynch Bages’ wines are 100% destemmed.

We tasted the 2004 out of 750mL, as well as 2010 barrel sample during our visit.

  • 2004 Château Lynch-Bages 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    -- tasted a single pour non-blind over 5 – 10 minutes --
    -- 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc --

    Pure red berries and leather on the tight Nose. Palate was tight, and moderately complex, showing flavors of plum, licorice, oak, and a hint of mint. This wine seemed a tad austere and a bit disjointed, as well. That said, I still enjoyed this and think it’s a solid wine that will improve with additional time in the cellar.

    B: 50, 5, 12, 17, 8 = 92

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  • 2010 Château Lynch-Bages

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    -- tasted a single pour non-blind over 5 – 10 minutes --
    -- barrel sample --
    -- 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 9% Merlot, 1% Petite Verdot –

    Nose was spicy, floral, and perfumy. Intensely violet in the glass. Oaky on the palate, but not as oaky as the 2010 Pontet Canet bbl sample; purple berries; extremely tight; I preferred the PC to this.

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Flight 3 - Mouton Rothschild (1 Note)

Not much of a presentation here. I learned that the estate has been around since 1853, and the chateau started bottling on the estate in 1924. Average age of vines is 56 years. We tasted the 2010 barrel sample here.

  • 2010 Château Mouton Rothschild

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    -- tasted a single pour non-blind over 5 – 10 minutes –
    -- barrel sample --
    -- 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot --

    Ballpoint pen ink on the perfumed Nose, with obvious plum and other non-descript purple fruits, too. This wine seemed much more accessible at this stage than the PC and LB samples. Very dark color; full palate; raspberry; long finish; oak is there, but is not overwhelming; 14% alc. is not noticeable; seems a bit lacking in acidity; I liked this quite a lot, but wasn’t bowled-over.

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Flight 4 - Grand Puy Lacoste (4 Notes)

Because Lafite pulled a jackhole move on our group, backing out of their agreement to accept all of our group a mere two days before our trip commenced, approximately half of us volunteered to visit Grand Puy Lacoste instead. Although I would have loved to visit Lafite and taste the 1995 that they poured for the other half of our group, I am ultimately quite happy that I was among the GPL volunteers, as Lafite isn’t going anywhere anytime soon (can always visit at a later time), and the 2010 barrel sample that GPL poured for us was either my favorite or second-favorite 2010 barrel sample of the trip. Oh yeah, the ’05 was pretty delicious as well!

Grand Puy Lacoste has 55 ha: 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. GPL does not do all natural yeast ferments, and they fine with egg whites, too. They start their malos during maceration. Grand Puy Lacoste’s Grand Vin spends 14 months in barrel (60% new, 40% 1 year old). We were told 95% of GPL’s Grand Vin is sold as futures. We tasted four wines during this visit:

  • 2010 Lacoste Borie

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    -- tasted a single pour non-blind over 5 – 10 minutes --
    -- 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc –

    Nose was very tight, giving up only some primary black licorice and wet granite. Medium-full bodied on the palate; very dark colored. Tasted a bit like motor oil smells; 13.5% alc. peeks through a bit; medium finish. I really wasn’t impressed by this.

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  • 2010 Château Haut-Batailley

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    -- tasted a single pour non-blind over 5 – 10 minutes --
    -- barrel sample --
    -- 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot –

    Tight Nose: red berries; lavender. Palate was tight, but oddly accessible at the same time: spicy and red-fruited with a medium-long finish. Pretty good, but I seem to recall thinking it wasn’t good enough to justify its asking price.

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  • 2010 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    -- tasted a single pour non-blind over 5 – 10 minutes --
    -- barrel sample --
    -- 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17%Merlot –

    Smoked deli sausage and hints of flowers and chai on the complex Nose. The palate was tannic, showing dark bitter fruits and oak. This seemed to be impeccably balanced, and may have been my favorite 2010 barrel sample of the trip

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  • 2005 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 97 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    -- tasted a single pour non-blind over 5 – 10 minutes --

    Knee-buckling Nose of raspberry liquer, cinnamon, and a toffee/cognac note. The fruit on this Nose is just dead-sexy. Surprisingly expressive. The palate is similarly stunning, showing ample dark red and purple fruits, juicy acidity, and an ashy minerality; tight on the finish. Possibly my favorite wine of the trip. I now have a need to back-fill on this baby.

    B: 50, 5, 14, 19, 9 = 97

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Flight 5 - Pichon Baron (4 Notes)

Our final stop of the day was at the majestic Pichon Baron chateau. Striking in its beauty and slick in its modernity, one can’t help but marvel at the stark difference in philosophy between this producer and a more traditional-minded producer, such as Pontet-Canet.

Pichon Baron has 73 ha: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot.

We tasted four vintages of PB:

  • 2010 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    -- tasted a single pour non-blind over 5 – 10 minutes –
    -- barrel sample --
    -- 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot –

    Complex Nose: orange juice; purple berries; wet garden; background coffee. Palate was tight and tannic; red and purple berries; a bit sweet; nice acidity. Very impressive. This wine saw 80% new oak.

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  • 2009 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    -- tasted a single pour non-blind over 5 – 10 minutes --
    -- 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot –

    Tight Nose: cherry; spearmint; ballpoint pen ink. Palate was tannic, chalky, red-fruited, and a tad oaky and bitter. My favorite of the 4 wines tasted here, although I think the 2010 is better structured.

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  • 2008 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    -- tasted a single pour non-blind over 5 – 10 minutes --
    -- 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot --

    Tight Nose: smoky coffee and cherry. Palate was bitter, austere, and tight. This wine lacked the concentration of the 2009 and 2010. Not a fan.

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  • 2003 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    -- tasted a single pour blind over 5 – 10 minutes --

    Red licorice and spearmint on the Nose. Bricking already creeping in throughout. Tannic and harsh on the palate, with some warm red fruit flavors; seemed closed. I thought this was significantly older than it is. Doesn’t seem to be aging gracefully.

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Flight 6 - Hotel Regent: Pre-dinner Wines (3 Notes)

After returning to our respective hotels before dinner, the lion’s share of the group reconvened at Hotel Regent for a few pre-dinner glasses. Tacman’s generosity knows no bounds – he popped a 2000 Harlan, and LST brought along two 1986 Napa Cabs., to honor two couples on the trip who were celebrating their 25 wedding anniversaries; sadly, neither of these couples decided to join us for pre-dinner wine, so the rest of us drank them in their honor!

  • 2000 Harlan Estate

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    -- tasted non-blind over 30 minutes --
    -- popped and poured --

    NOSE: fruity; dark; nice underlying earthiness/mineral; some oak.

    TASTE: palate is somewhat disjointed and rough; alcohol shows through some (stated at 14.5%, but it tastes closer to 15.5%); seems to be well-balanced between acid and tannin, and there is incredible concentration of dark fruits; I think this *might* age well, but the big question for me is whether all these presently disjointed parts will meld together into a harmonious one with time. Thank you, tacman!

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  • 1986 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    -- tasted non-blind over 15 minutes --
    -- popped and poured --

    Still has a youthful color to it, but with bricking throughout. Smells a bit oxidized/Butter Rum Lifesavers. Taste shows still some pure cherry fruit tones sticking around, but this is followed by a definite tawniness. Still has some tannin; acidity is good; alcohol does not show through. Probably 5 years past its prime, but still a fun bottle to drink. Thank you, LST!

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  • 1986 Monticello Vineyards (Corley Family) Cabernet Sauvignon Corley Reserve

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    -- tasted non-blind over 15 minutes --
    -- popped and poured --

    Obvious bricking at edges and throughout. Nice typical aged CA Cab Nose. Nice acidity. 12.5% alc. doesn’t show at all; tannins are fully resolved; a tad watery/tired on the back end. Probably 2 – 3 years past its peak, but pleasant nonetheless. I preferred this to the 1986 BV Georges de Latour Private Reserve. Thank you, LST!

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Closing

What a day!

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