Langoa v Leoville

An interesting opportunity to compare the two Barton St Juliens. This confirmed what I took away from Linden's two verticals a couple of years ago - there is very little difference in absolute quality - the Langoa is a bit sweeter, softer, more obviously fruity, the Leoville more structured, more cedary. The young wines showed relatively better this evening, showing a freshness and bite that the older wines lacked.

• 1999 Château Langoa Barton 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Ripe, spicy, some graphite, very lively, buffered tannins , very attractive, though seemed tighter when I returned to it

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• 1994 Château Langoa Barton Flawed

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Stripped nose - nah, it's corked

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• 1994 Château Léoville Barton 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Dumb nose, more giving on the palate, fine and leafy, it hints at so much but ends up giving little - I think this may be the first 94 claret I've had

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• 1996 Château Léoville Barton 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Fresher and spicier than the Langoa and lifted by a bit of funk

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• 1996 Château Langoa Barton 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Markedly more blackcurranty than anything in the first flight, tighter and silkier, a fine claret just coming into its own

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• 1990 Château Léoville Barton Flawed

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Milky, hot and oxidising

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• 1989 Château Léoville Barton 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Much better than the 90, but this too had a milky tone, smooth, restrained - not much excitement

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• 1989 Château Langoa Barton 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Dumb nose, thick, tannic, though still smooth - but like the Leoville, this was was boring

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• 1988 Château Léoville Barton 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Lean, stalky, a bit dusty and tannic, but some minty rich fruit in the mid-palate, and this drew me in, intriguing and deep

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• 1998 Château Léoville Barton 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Vigorous, tannic, animale, quite exciting

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• 2000 Château Langoa Barton 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Brutal, tannic, but wild with cedar and blackcurrants - exciting

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• 1988 Château Guiraud 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Fresh, with a celery like saltiness giving it lift, balancing out the burnt tone

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