Red Burgundy Tasting: Overachiving 1er Crus VS. Underachiving Grand Crus

La Silhouette
Tasted Tuesday, November 29, 2011 by Seth Rosenberg with 689 views

Flight 1 (1 Note)

  • 2004 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis

    Light-medium golden yellow. Lemony nose with lots of oak. Honey and flowers - sweet, with a spicy browness. Lots of lemon on the palate, some minerals. Nice body with some richness, but focused. Lemon and honey in the finish. Not what you'd expect from an 04 Chablis, but good nonetheless. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 4.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1/2 = 15.5/20.

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Flight 2 (4 Notes)

  • 1995 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Tasted blind. Darker blue-ruby red,slightly cloudy. Somewhat reticent on the nose: deep dark hidden blue fruits, stone-minerals, stems. Very pure and elegant with smooth tannins on the end/finish. Cranberry/raspberry, iron, minerals, lots of chewy tannins. Finish is quite pure and persistent. I guessed it was a wine from the 1999 vintage. Nose - 4/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 5.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1/2 = 16/20.

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  • 1997 Domaine Bertheau (Pierre et François) Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 96 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

    Tasted blind. Cloudy ruby red. Very bright primary fruit on the nose, which transformed into spice and sauvage. Tart cherry, cranberry and root beer on the palate - almost a Williams-Selyem style of flavors. Stewy, meaty and delicious. A little fuzzy and unfocused on the palate, but pure and delicious with a great finish. I guessed 1985 based on the plushness and fruit, but was surprised to find it was a 97. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 5.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 2/2 = 18/20.

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  • 1997 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne 98 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Tasted blind. Great nose. Sweet spice, meaty, sauvage, violets and roses, strawberry fruit - just gorgeous. Creamy and bright strawberry fruit on the palate. Cherry and iron. Sweet. Meaty and mature. Really in the sweet spot right now - almost Dujac-like in its perfume and purity. Nose - 5.5-6/6, Palate - 6/6, Finish - 5.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 2/2 = 19-19.5/20.

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  • 1999 Domaine Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Tasted blind. Very bright fruit in the nose: red cherry, cranberry with some vitamin, minerals (no pun intended). Young and showing stems. Chewy and young on the palate: brambly and stemmy, raspberry, blackberry. A little vibration and a touch acidic. Nice finish of cherry and acid. I guessed that this was the Fourrier CSJ. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 4.5/6, Finish - 4.5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 0.5/2 = 14.5/20.

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Flight 3 (3 Notes)

  • 1990 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot 84 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

    Tasted blind. Much more reticent in the nose than any of the wines from the 1st flight. Some green and stems, a little heat. Cherry, sherry? Similar on palate. Some plummy fruit, minerals. Not impressive. Young. Nose - 4/6, Palate - 4/6, Finish - 4/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 0/2 = 12/20.

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  • 1988 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Domaine Louis Jadot 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

    Tasted blind. Again, quiet on the nose - stewy and meaty, silky strawberry - all in the background. Tight on the palate, stewy and meaty again. Dark cherry. Delicious on the palate - opens up and becomes quite rich. Nose - 4/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1/2 = 15.5/20.

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  • 1995 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Domaine Louis Jadot 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Tasted blind. The nose has a creamy and mineral aspect that I love. A touch meaty and earthy. Excellent on the palate. Deep fruit - panoramic. Sauvage, meaty and earthy, dark cherry fruit. Rustic and pure. Nose - 4.5/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 2/2 = 17/20.

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Flight 4 (2 Notes)

  • 1997 Jacques Cacheux & Fils Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots 86 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Tasted blind. Spice on the nose, then serious green. A little sour. Not exceptional on the palate: acid and tart cherry. I thought this was my wine (1991 Leroy VR Beaux Monts) at first, so I got very confused. It definitely struck me a Vosne. The others seemed to like it more than I did. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 4/6, Finish - 4/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 0/2 = 13/20.

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  • 1985 Maison Albert Bichot Echezeaux Domaine du Clos Frantin 87 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

    Tasted blind. Old on nose at first: stinky and oxidized, but improved over time: showing some spice and plummy fruit. Better on palate than the initial nose: acid, still old, raisiny, sour cherry. Some prettiness and purity, but messed up. Nose - 2/6 >> 4.5/6, Palate - 4/6, Finish - 4/6, Je ne Sais Quoi - 0/2 >> 1/2 = 13.5/20.

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Flight 5 (2 Notes)

  • 1993 Mongeard-Mugneret Echezeaux 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

    Tasted blind. Creamy nose, cherry, some spice, chocolate, yummy. Tighter on the palate: cherry, acid, great balance, earthy, nice purity and spice. Nose - 5.5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 5/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1/2 = 16.5/20.

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  • 1991 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Tasted blind. Spicy nose with good strawberry fruit. Great nose: forward and complex. A touch of green. Delicious on the palate which shows spice, strawberry at first, then herbal on finish. The middle is creamy and delicious. This was my bottle, and it did not show as well as it usually does. This was the last of 6 purchased years ago at auction from Acker. The previous 5 bottles showed consistently in the 17-18 (out of 20) pt range. Nose - 5.5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 4/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1/2 = 15.5/20.

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