A Ledbury lunch

The Ledbury, London
Tasted Friday, October 18, 2013 by SimonG with 433 views

Flight 1 (1 Note)

An amuse of langoustine

Flight 2 (1 Note)

Poached ceps with aged Comte, hazelnut oil and dried cabbage

Flight 3 (2 Notes)

Breast of quail, chestnut cream and Wiltshire truffles

  • 1993 Faiveley Echezeaux 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

    Deep ruby, dense but bright. A touch of VA initially but this blows off quite quickly to reveal dark red fruit and a hint of the autumnal. Somewhere between silk and velvet on the palate, very cosseting and very drinkable. Mid to dark red fruit, a hint of sous bois, very mellow and smooth and long. Really lovely and showing a little plusher than the more animale 91. *****

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  • 1991 Faiveley Echezeaux 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

    A bit more volatile on the nose than the 93, with more of a pronounced VA character that takes a good hour to lift. A little more garnet in colour than the 93, and also more savoury and a little spirity on the palate, the VA again, though this does right itself after an hour or so. Less plush and complete, though very good indeed, especially after it cleaned up in the glass. ****

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Flight 4 (3 Notes)

Loin and neck of lamb with Chinese and Jerusalem artichokes, padron pepper and herbs

  • 1989 Domaine de Chevalier 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Glorious. Mid to full ruby. A touch of damp earth, tobacco and dark red fruit hinting at sweetness. Harmonious from the off. Classic Graves profile with a touch of sweetness to the fruit balanced by the minerality, tobacco and freshness. Complete. *****

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  • 1989 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste Flawed

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    DOA. Stewed.

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  • 1989 Château Calon-Ségur 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    A little darker than the DDC. Moodier but also glossier on the nose and the attack. A bit denser, a little drier in places and with a liquorice element. Over an hour or so this comes and goes a bit and then seems to pull itself together to show far more harmoniously. A silky density here though not quite the joie de vivre and vivacity of the DDC which flattered throughout. ****

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Flight 5 (1 Note)

Sainte Nectaire and truffle toast

  • 1989 Clos l'Église (Pomerol) 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Showing brilliantly. Just the right balance between lush, dense and quite deep plummy fruit and a more mineral, slightly gravelly line that holds it from attack to finish. Fine velvet. Fresh through the finish. Harmonious and complete. A gorgeous bottle. *****

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Flight 6 (1 Note)

Burnt cream of lemon thyme with crushed apples, vanilla and olive oil

Flight 7 (1 Note)

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