Dinner at l'Apicio

New York City
Tasted Monday, June 17, 2013 by Matt Neel with 317 views

Flight 1 (8 Notes)

  • 2004 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Greenish pale straw. Reserved nose (the wine was cold); tangerine peel, cream. Palate is pretty light, not much grip; good acidic structure; overall hard to read -- not showing much now, very closed off, but I think it just needs time. Not flawed, just closed.

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  • 2007 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Very pale straw. Big, deep nose, extremely minerally and gloriously earthy; butter, even butterscotch; seashells. Palate is ripe and quite rich; butter, minerals; unevolved. Good balance and extremely long. Again, this needs time (though less than the 2004 and it is much more open than that wine).

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  • 2002 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Straw. Big, deep mineral nose. Wow! Saline, oyster shells; really classic. Palate is huge and sweet, buckets of fruit; cream, butter, lime, and many more minerals. Lovely and long. Beginning to be ready; lovely. There is a luscious touch of tasy oxidation on the long finish. This wine is definitely ready and good to go. Yum!

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  • 2000 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Golding straw. The nose is gutty and deep -- holy moly this is interesting! Saline, gardenia (?) and/or carnations. Just a glorious nose; a touch of asparagus (stewy green) but it is nice here. Palate is huge and fabulous; great acid, incredible length. Definitely my favorite of the four ('04, '07, '02, '00).

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  • 1985 René Collard Champagne Brut Carte Or

    France, Champagne

    Orangey gold; showing some visible oxidation. Deep stony, mineral nose; cream; a little stewed cabbage from age, along with a little sherry/madeirization from oxidation -- which it should have at this point. BIG on the palate, and wicked dry; oxidation again. This really is a food wine; good lord it's big and dry! Good, mellow mousse. Good, not great, length. Rather on the rustic side but a good wine.

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  • 2000 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    Classic gold. On the nose, Josh says "campfire and popcorn," and he couldn't be more right, though maybe popcorn butter from my perspective... Incredibly classic nose; super mineral. Wowza! Palate is the same, more or less. Not huge. Saline and seashell; mint. This wine is out of a fucking museum it's so classic; a Titian. From the Renaissance. Eternal I'm sure, certainly in style. Wow!

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  • 2002 Mongeard-Mugneret Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Orveaux

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Bricking ruby. Really classic nose; geranium, florist's shop; raspberry red fruits; oak (but mellow and integrating). Really shows as '02 with its charm and pleasure. Palate is less ready, however, chewy and tannic yet, but classic; good sweet, red fruit, pie cherry; little evolution in the direction of spices yet, though -- wait for that. Fine balance; lovely, elegant length. Terrific.

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  • 2007 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir Laurène

    USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills

    Blood ruby. Deep, pretty classic Burgundian nose; distinct oak that needs time to integrate; mace (?, because not something I know well, but that is what my olfactory memory told me), plum, black cherry. Burgundian, but if so in a modern vein. Palate is primary but well balanced; fruit leaning more to red plums than black cherry. Good not great length. This really needs time as it is showing a little gangly and awkwardly. (My wine, served double blind to assess quality)

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