Food (Network, Da Umberto) & Wine

Maybe a month ago at dinner the offer was made to do a tour of the Food network, visit Chelsea Wine Vault and grab dinner in the area. Needless to say it was accepted and we enjoyed a lovely evening. Unfortunately being not a chef nor a food tv connoisseur (I needed to clarify the premise of Chopped which was being filmed at the time we were going around) I probably missed some of the awesomeness, but it was interesting to see the offices, great to visit the Chelsea Wine Vault and Da Umberto was awesome.

Opened a few bottles and did a tour. Always fun to wander around boxes of great wine. Unfortunately being not really a Chard person I skipped the Rhys although heard lovely things. The Arkenstone continues to be a favorite for me in the white category.

• 2012 Arkenstone Sauvignon Blanc

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

  I just really always love this wine. There's a hint of the SB grassiness to it, but not overpowering and it's balanced by honey and just kindof a lightness. Easy summer sipper. It always delivers and I always enjoy it.

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• 2012 Rhys Chardonnay Horseshoe Vineyard

  USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

  Funny note, but want to capture the whole night of tasting. I didn't try this. The group though really enjoyed it. Toasted sesame seed, buttered popcorn, maybe a hint of citrus (esp on the nose). It was well enjoyed by the chardonnay drinkers in the crowd.

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Started the meal with a nice antipasto and the SQN. Included in the leal was:

Rustico / prosciutto, salame, speck, parmigiano
Scampi / roasted shrimp, white wine, shallots
Polipo / grilled octopus, farro, salsa verde
Caprese / bufala mozzerella, tomato, basil

• 2013 Sine Qua Non Résisté

  USA, California, Central Coast

  Fun to try the new release of this. Most of the ones we've had have had ~10 years of age give or take and those are just spectacular. We tried one with five years and really enjoyed. New release is also excellent although I think I like these with a bit more age on them. It has all of the components to be a very interesting wine, but it doesn't have that never ending evolution that you see after it's had a bit more time to grow into itself. It was however just an amazing pairing with shrimp in garlic sauce. Glad we have a few of these.

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We started by pouring the Quintarelli merlots which were an interesting side by side comparison. The 2000 was decanted and the '86 was a pnp. In addition, we did a pasta tasting:

Raviolacci / truffle mushroom ravioli
Rigatoni / sausage ragu, peas, ricotta
Risotta / risotto of the day (didn't get exact details, but tasted like a nice ragu - my favorite of the pastas)

Generally group felt 2000 was drinking a bit better than the '86, but both nice wines.

• 2000 Giuseppe Quintarelli Cà del Merlo Veneto IGT

  Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT

  Clear candidate for wine of the night this was just in it's absolutely perfect spot. Not that it won't last longer, but if you have one of these would be popping right now. Excellent balance. Fruit is mostly fig flavored which was interesting in a red (usually associate with ports). Great wine. Had side by side with the '86 which was just at a point a bit further along than this one.

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• 1986 Giuseppe Quintarelli Cà del Merlo Veneto IGT

  Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT

  Drank side by side with a 2000 and the 2000 was just in the better spot. This was nice though. Has that wonderful aged characteristic that I like. Muted leather, maybe shoe polish, hints of caramel. Opened up over time and was nice, but definitely time to drink up.

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Next was a side by side of the late 90's Gaja Barbaresco. Original plan had been another wine, but when Mike said he was bringing one we figured why not do the side by side. '97 was in a bit of a better spot than the '98. Wines were interesting. Not sure I am really a true Gaja Barbaresco fan although both were good wines and I think one person might have cited the '97 as their WOTN.

In addition, we got a secondi which was a choice of:

Filetto / prime cut filet mignon, black peppercorn, cognac, spinach (this was great with the Cayuse in the next flight - also they cooked it a perfect rare which was wonderful)
Ossobuco d'Agnello / lamb shank, slow braised, risotto milanese, gremolata
Capricciosa / pan breaded chicken, bufala mozzerella, cherry tomatoes, balsamico
Pesce Oggi / market fish, tomato, olives, sweet onions, capers
Salmone / seared Scottish salmon, haricots vert, mustard crema

• 1998 Gaja Barbaresco

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Second vertical of the night we had this side by side with the 1997. Both very good wines. The nose on this was really wonderful - probably the winner of the two. Acidity was quite strong. It pulled itself together some over time. It was good, but not quite in my style of wine (to be fair, the '97 wasn't really either although I thought a nose ahead maybe because the fruit was still running there).

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• 1997 Gaja Barbaresco

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Better than our first interaction with this wine. This was drunk next to a '98 and while I liked the nose on the '98 more, I preferred the taste of this. Very well integrated wine in probably an optimal drinking window right now. Fruit was poking through and I appreciated that ('98 fruit has mostly faded). Enjoyable.

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The rest was a bit of a hodge podge based on what we wanted to bring. I think most of us were a bit tipsy by the time we got to these, but fun wines to try. We also ended with a dessert platter that had the standard fare of tiramisu, cheesecake, etc.

• 1988 Château Gruaud Larose

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Time to drink this right up since it's prob end of drinking window. Direct, cigar box. This wine is my prototype for old Bordeaux. It's a bit more earth-dominated that I really like (but I skew new world so that's not saying much). Did think it was running a bit on fumes so wonder what it might have been a few years ago.

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• 2006 Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Drank towards the end of the night with rather large pours going so not sure I got as good of a feel for this wine as some of the others (esp because I'd started drinking on a truly empty stomach since dinner was first meal of the day that day). I remember fairly strong acidity to this. Tasted older than I expected it to given the year and the way brunello's seem to need forever to come together.

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• 2003 Cayuse Syrah Coccinelle Vineyard

  USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

  CT window of 2012 is incredibly off. This wine was still going strong. Still hints of maybe a bit more alcohol than I'd have liked, but so it goes. This was singing for me. Total rocks, slate, olives, meaty goodness. I'm going to go off the reservation and say might have been my WOTN although I think I was unique in that.

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Overall a successful evening although a pretty intense one given our 9:30 am plan to hit the Zachys auction the next day. The group pretty universally thought the 2000 Quintarelli was the WOTN although I think I was partial to the Cayuse (I'm too much of a new world one I guess). Overall though lots of interesting wines and fun to do a few verticals and see the different years.