Intimate Dinner Series: Domino and I Commemorate 15 Years w/Great 2001s

A few of us from the Friday/Saturday group have formed a smaller, intimate group to open some excellent wines in good company. We want to spend the evening with the wines with a good meal, rather than go our usual tasting route where sometimes great wines don't get enough time to fully reveal themselves and one has to be much more judicious when pouring. As the date for this dinner was confirmed, I realized that it was close to the date Domino and I would commemorate the 15th anniversary of the day we met, so I offered to open a 2001 Lafite. The others took that idea and ran with it, and we ended up with a terrific lineup of wines.

We brought the Corton, the Niellon was courtesy of R&D. I cannot recall ever being disappointed in one of Niellon's wines and this was no exception.

• 2002 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Corton-Charlemagne 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  Here again, this needed half an hour or so to really show itself. On opening there was a distinct hazelnut note with lemon and stone notes underneath. As the wine sat, the citrus notes came forward and this became brighter and quite fresh/lively. Flavors of lemon curd, almond, stone and mineral with hints of melon and honeysuckle too. Long finish. From a less than pristine source, most of the lot has been excellent- admittedly I have had more than my share of good karma redeemed with this lot. One bottle remains, which I'll open soon due to the poor provenance. I would think well-stored bottles are still a few years from being ready.

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• 2007 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées Clos de la Truffière 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  I see that I last had this about 18 months ago, and it hasn't lost a thing in that span. Pale youthful color with aromas of lemon chiffon and minerals. Medium-bodied and bright with apple, lemon and mineral flavors with a touch of smoky toast. Lengthy finish. Terrific stuff. Doesn't seem like it has moved much at all in 18 months- this is still on the youthful side and should offer a lot of pleasure in the coming years.

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Served in one flight, and the size of the group proved superior as we had plenty of each of the three to come back to at the end of the night. We took a vote for WOTF, which ended up going to the Lafite, as it was the most open/expressive of the three. In time, the Latour will most likely be the winner as it should be the longest lived of the three. It's unfortunate, in a certain sense, to declare one wine as a "winner" over the others as all three of these are indeed great wines.

We ordered a beef appetizer, as well as egg rolls and shrimp rolls. As we had plenty in our glasses we were also able to follow these with the main course- Mrs. Lee's Hong Kong Steak - a porterhouse grilled medium rare, with a sauce served on the side. The wines paired beautifully with all of the various flavors of the dishes.

• 2001 Château Lafite Rothschild 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Our first of two bottles, celebrating the 15th anniversary of the day Domino and I met. Decanted for two & a half hours before being rebottled and taken to the restaurant for dinner with friends. There was just a wee bit of very fine sediment so we lost very little wine, maybe an ounce at most. Upon arrival at Gen Hoe, it was poured immediately alongside the Margaux and Latour, all three were then allowed to breathe in the glass while we enjoyed the two white Burgundies.
  
  Still very deeply colored and quite opaque, much more youthful in appearance than I thought it would be at this stage. Aromas of violets, pencil shavings and black currants. At other times, hints of cedar, red berry fruit, forest floor and tobacco appear and fade before coming back again. The profile doesn't change too much- everything is there before fading into the background and then appearing once more a few minutes later. Medium tannins, with flavors of red and black fruit, graphite and underbrush. Balanced, with a long finish. So very floral and pretty.

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• 2001 Château Margaux 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Courtesy of R&D, decanted four hours and then poured alongside the Lafite and Latour. Deep color, completely opaque nearly to the meniscus. Aromas of red and black fruit, cedar, lavender and florals with a meaty/savory overtone. Medium tannins with flavors of red plum, currants, lavender and tobacco with a lengthy finish. One taster described this as "somewhat brawny" and I think that is a very apt description. There's a lot of power here, yet it remains elegant- shows very well between the more elegant Lafite and more powerful Latour. If this is representative, this needs another five years, if not more.

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• 2001 Château Latour Grand Vin 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Another courtesy of R&D, decanted four hours before being served alongside the Lafite and Margaux. Youthful dark color, opaque to the meniscus. The tightest and "biggest" of the three, which came as no surprise to the group. Black currant, plum and green tobacco notes. A bit more firm on the palate than the other two, with flavors that mirror the bouquet. A more powerful and deeper wine- black fruit, forest floor and...towards the end of the night...hints of graphite and roasted game. Whereas the others might be truly ready and open in five years, this may need ten. My score reflects the end of the evening, when this was its most open and expressive...initially I had this rated much lower.

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Doc and Ruth, lacking 2001 Bordeaux in their cellars, offered to bring some excellent California wines to taste with the FGs. Rich and I suggested that a couple of bottles would suffice, but Doc and Ruth brought five bottles anyway. They also elected to serve these in brown bags, so we and R&D were drinking blind, knowing only that we had 2001 California Cabs/Bordeaux blends in front of us. These were enjoyed in a single flight with the porterhouse, and then sipped casually as we wound down the evening.

Once again, the shame is that we had a vote and some wine had to finish last, as these were all excellent wines in their own right. The Dunn and O'Shaughnessy, not surprisingly, still need some time to show their best.

• 2001 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 91 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Dark core with a garnet rim. Notes of red plum and dill, tending towards dark fruit as it sits. There might be just a touch of VA, but that had faded by the end of the evening. Flavors of chocolate, mixed fruit and spice. Tannins are nicely integrated and this is well-balanced. I'd score this higher were it not for the touch of VA. Doesn't change too much, it just softens and remains very enjoyable.
  
  My #5, Domino's #5
  Group #4, 20 pts (though it still received two 1st place votes)

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• 2001 Showket Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 95 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

  Opaque color. This has a woinderful bouquet which immediately captivates me and holds my attention. Leather, currants, tobacco, red plum and earth. Medium-bodied with surprisingly sweet red fruit- almost candied but thoroughly enjoyable, its sweet in the very best way. Vibrant and pure with a long finish. Develops a wonderful herbal note to go with the red fruit aromas. Red fruit on the palate remains bright and exuberant. This should continue to drink well for a few more years.
  
  My #1, Domino's #2
  Group #1, 13 pts
  
  This finished as WOTN about a year ago at the same restaurant at the first dinner in this series. It is very easy to see what the folks at Peter Michael saw in this vineyard and why they purchased it (Au Paradis is made from this vineyard).

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• 2001 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 94 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

  Notes of black currants, plum, softened cassis and red fruit. There's a subtle herbal undertone that I like. Medium- to full-bodied, with sweet red and black fruit, candied black cherry, forest floor and spice with a long finish. Develops a tobacco note as it opens. The fruit doesn't fade over the course of the evening, remaining dominant in the finish to the very end of the night. Lingering finish. 94-95 pts.
  
  My #2, Domino's #4
  Group #5, 23 pts
  
  I have a bottle in the cellar and will probably let it sit another five years before I look to enjoy it.

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• 2001 Havens Wine Cellars Bourriquot 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Aromas of herbs and dark fruit. Somewhat firm, perhaps bordering on austere, with flavors of red and black fruit, herbs and plum with a long finish. As it opens the fruit comes forward, losing the sense of austerity. A mélange of red and black fruit, herbs and hints of spice. Very well-balanced across the palate...seamless, with a lingering finish.
  
  My #4, Domino's #1
  Group #3, 19 pts
  The surprise here is that this was Domino's favorite- the Bourriquot is predominantly Cab Franc, a variety Domino tends to dislike. Some would consider this a "lesser" wine, especially considering the rest of tonight's line up, however this more than held its own and was not at all out of place. Most impressive but in hindsight, considering the recent performances of both the '94 and '97, tonight's showing really shouldn't be a surprise.

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• 2001 O'Shaughnessy Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 94 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

  Opens with a nice herbal note, followed by black fruit, licorice, macerated berries and spice. Full-bodied. Black fruit, pepper and spice qualities on the palate with a lengthy finish. Adds a nice eucalyptus/minty note as it sits. Black fruits remain the dominant note though the peppery quality remains. I guessed this was an O'Shaughnessy Howell Mountain. Very youthful, keep this tucked away for a few years. 94+ pts.
  
  My #3, Domino's #3
  Group #2, 15 pts

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Thanks to R&D, Doc and Ruth for braving the winter storm warnings, snow and traffic and for sharing some truly wonderful bottles of wine. For the next dinner in the series, we will return to Carlucci's for their Flintstone-sized beef shanks, with which we will enjoy Syrahs from around the globe.