Annual gathering with Chicago winos in Chicago - Burgs, old Bordeauxs and SQNs

The tradition of sharing great wines with the Chicago crew started in 2009 when Justin organized his first SQN blowout charity dinner in DC. Since then there were one or two annual gatherings. I was lucky enough to join the festivity since 2014. This time the DC crew traveled to Chicago.

Alan and Jeff were in charge of the logistics. The dinner was held at the privative room of Smyth restaurant. Since our events are very much wine centric, i.e. the service and private room over the cuisine, I didn’t even check the venue. The meal turn out to be one of the best meals of my life. I noticed definite Japanese influence. The dishes were intense and complex without compromising the pure and clean flavor. It was also one of the best thought out tasting menus to complement the wines that we brought.

I must applaud Alan for the wine flights as the progression was perfect and the wines showed brilliantly. The Chicago crew, Alan, Jeff, James, Ken and Nick, were the perfect hosts and created the perfect experience for all.

The 96 Dom and Krug showed incredibly well. The Salon was slightly off.

• 1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 96 Points

  France, Champagne

  Decadent fully mature nose displaying sweet yellow fruit, candied lemon peel, apple cooked in cinnamon, caramel, limestone and honey. Fully integrated palate, abundant fine mousse, sweet spices and cooked apple driven palate impression, perfect amount of acidity, excellent mineral presence and a sweet deeply toned finish. This particular bottle is fully mature but still retains good freshness and precision. Excellent showing.

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• 1996 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut 98 Points

  France, Champagne

  Very youthful yet decadent and complex nose displaying orange rind, candied orange, apricot, tarte tatin, a hint of raspberry, strong marzipan, ginger and mineral. Beautifully integrated palate, fine mousse, decadent yellow fruit and marzipan driven palate impression, perfect amount of acidity, strong presence of mineral and an incredibly sweet finish that lasts. This is a very well cellared example. Once again, absolutely delicious yet serious and profound.

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• 1996 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Flawed

  France, Champagne

  Alan mentions that it may be slightly corked. The first note is a cheap blue cheese. It is not corked but not correct and weird. Such a shame.

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I was pleasantly surprised by the 94, a beautifully mature Chablis. The 09 was really tight.

• 1994 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Beautiful fully mature Chablis nose that we all love. Nick loves the lanoline note and I agree. Fully mature rich nose displaying lemon oil, slightly oxidized peeled apple, a hint of fresh apricot, lanoline, spicy spices and limestone. Beautifully integrated palate, perhaps slightly lacking acidity, very good mineral presence and a subtle long finish with mineral and lanoline at the end. A pleasant surprise, simple a beautifully mature grand crus Chablis.

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• 2004 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Corked.

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• 2009 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  “It is like licking a block of limestone” is what I wrote. Déjà vu as that is what I wrote what I drank this last in August of 2012. Coiled, dense and mineral driven nose displaying a hint of lemon oil, granny smith, oyster shell, saline, a hint of mint and wet stone. Excellent concentration, coiled, dense, oily, bright acidity, incredibly mineral and a long coiled mineral driven finish. This really needs another decade to reach the peak.

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The 53 Monty was fascinating. Perhaps not quite the GC material but beautifully aged.

• 1953 Antonin Rodet Montrachet 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

  Beautiful golden color. Unique old Burgundy nose displaying dry apricot, orange peel, oyster shell, a hint of petrol and earth. Fully integrated palate, quite soft and subtle after sixty some years. This reminds me an old grave with the sweet apricot and petrol notes. Not oxidized at all. Really fascinating and enjoyable. A couple of points extra for still being enjoyable.

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• 2005 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Just like the last two times, not so inspiring. Shy ripe nose displaying candied grapefruit, cooked apple, caramel and mineral. Excellent concentration, rich, coiled, medium acidity, strong presence of mineral and a medium finish. Certain not premoxed but a bit dull and cloying. Will this ever improve, gaining more detail and precision, with time? I am not so sure.

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The Coche was flirting with perfection. The 09 Roulot was a bit tight but fresh and pure.

• 2002 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  The nose is slightly muted and advanced, ripe yellow fruit, creme brulee and oyster shell. Fully integrated harmonious palate, incredibly airy which is interesting, good acidity and a short to medium finish. 85 point nose and 93 point palate. Considering the current market, the wine to avoid.

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• 2009 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Incredibly mineral and slightly coiled nose displaying lemon curd, lemon oil, a hint of pear, Coche like flint, white flower, beeswax and limestone dust. Excellent concentration, very dense and coiled yet also very focused and precise, bright acidity, strong presence of acidity and a long coiled finish. It is very pure and precise with unbelievable amount of mineral. Like the hint of Coche like flint a lot. As Nick points out and I wholeheartedly agree, it lacks the deliciousness of the 08 Coche Perrieres though no doubt as precise and serious.

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• 2008 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 99 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Nick and I agree that what makes Coche so special is that the wines are so delicious without compromising the purity and precision. Absolutely delicious nose displaying opulent and abundant white fruits, pear, apple, white peach, lemon curt, a hint of Coche flint, acacia, sesame/toasted oak, saline and limestone. Very pure and clean, cool mountain stream with a dash of salt, incredibly layered opulent white orchard fruits, bright acidity, incredibly mineral and a long thirst quenching finish. Incredible showing.

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Per Nick, not showing a lot of La Tache signature but a great mature Burgundy that we all love.

• 1972 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 96 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

  According to Nick, a beautifully mature Burgundy but not finding the typical La Tache signature of Asian spice which I completely agree. Beautiful expressive nose displaying decadent red fruit, strawberry and rhubarb tart, cherry brandy, lightly stewed tomato, sous bois, a hint of soy, ash, mushroom, smoke, rose and sweet spices. Very good concentration, rich and earthy, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a long sweet red fruit driven finish. Excellent showing.

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The nose of the 83 was to die for, simply perfect nose despite a hint of the 83 rot.

• 1983 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares 98 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  This is my third time trying the 83 Roumier BM and this is the best showing, very clean and bright. Absolutely perfect nose displaying essence of raspberry, cherry pie, cherry brandy, light caramel, cinnamon, Asian spice, truffle, sous bois and earth. There is a hint of the 83 rot but it is not bothersome. Beautiful silky palate, a hint of bitterness from the rot, perfectly amount of acidity, good mineral presence and a long sweet finish. Just like the last bottle, I much prefer the nose which is beyond perfect. Despite the 83 rot, it is close to perfect. Perhaps the most stunning woman with asymmetric face or some sort of flaw. I can still smell it. Wow!

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• 1985 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Decadent red fruit driven nose, strawberry jam, cherry pie, cola, sautéed cep, iron and earth. Excellent concentration, decadent red fruit driven palate impression, good acidity, strong presence of mineral via iron and a long intense jammy red fruit and earth driven finish. It is richer, denser and cleaner than the 85 but the nose is not quite there. Very good showing but I much prefer the 83.

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I was so convince about the vintages and ended up eating humble pie.

• 2007 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru

  Served blind I am totally convince that this is the 02 as the wine is rich and oily. Expressive nose displaying ripe red fruit, perhaps cranberry, strawberry jam, limestone and raw button mushroom. Excellent concentration, rich red fruit driven palate impression, good acidity, strong presence of mineral and a long decadent red fruit driven finish. I foolishly declare my conviction to the group. Al informs us that this is the 07. I revisit but this is more like the 02. Surprisingly ripe and concentrated. Excellent showing.

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• 2002 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru

  Served blind I am totally convince that this is the 07 as the wine is lean, soft and floral. Round and pretty nose displaying cherry, fresh strawberry, stem, mineral and earth. Medium concentration, soft, warm, good mineral presence, medium acidity a medium to long finish. I foolishly declare my conviction to the group. Al informs us that this is the 02. I revisit but this is more like the 07 to me. Surprisingly soft and warm.

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All showed incredibly well. Some preferred the completeness of the 62 Latour, simply a matter of taste.

• 1949 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  I drank a bottle in 2005 and thought it was perfect. From a half bottle, explosive ripe nose displaying cassis, dry black fruit, a hint of port, a hint of VA, tobacco, leather, iron, dark caramel and meat. Incredible concentration, layers upon layers of opulent dark fruit, still quite opulent and chewy, bright acidity and a long cassis and tobacco driven finish. Still showing exceptional concentration. Initially thought this could be a fake as the format is odd but the expression and appearance are correct. Really impressive. I would love to try from a bottle or magnum format soon.

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• 1959 Château Latour Grand Vin 98 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Expressive youthful nose displaying cassis, dry blackberry, caramel, cedar, tobacco and a hint of leather. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered concentrated fruit, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity, still noticeable slightly dry tannins and an incredibly long cassis and leather driven finish. Still quite youthful and distinctively Bordeaux. This may last for a century. When properly cellared, the 59 Latour consistently flirts with perfection.

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• 1962 Château Latour Grand Vin 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Fully mature nose displaying soft and warm red fruit, a hint of cassis, cedar, a hint of bell pepper and leather. Medium concentration, soft and warm, subtle red fruit and cedar driven palate impression, fully resolved tannins and a long subtle red fruit driven finish. This is fully ready, a classic claret.

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Both showed brilliantly. Can any wine be so consistently perfect as the 90 Margaux!

• 1983 Château Margaux 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Expressive youthful nose displaying cassis, crushed blackberry, lead pencil and mineral. Excellent concentration, youthful cassis driven palate impression, noticeable but none obtrusive tannins and a long cassis driven finish. This is still quite young and can easily improve for another decade or two even longer. I clearly prefer the hedonistic 90 but this is darn impressive. Excellent showing.

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• 1990 Château Margaux 100 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  I have five tns of the 90 Chateau Margaux on CT with all perfect ratings. Can any wine be so perfect! Explosive nose displaying intense concentrated red fruit, cassis, caramel, dark milk chocolate, incense, lead pencil, lavender and mineral. Unbelievable concentration, layered upon layers of intense red fruit and cassis, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, incredible silky tannins and the never ending finish. The fruit is so opulent yet the overall palate impression is almost weightless. This once again is perfect in every way. I am convince that this is the best wine made in 1990. For my palate, one of the top ten Bordeauxs ever made. Just Wow!

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Certainly was the right placement.

• 1997 Sine Qua Non Impostor McCoy 95 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast

  Youthful expressive nose displaying blackberry jam, blackberry liqueur, crushed black cherry, cherry brandy, fruitcake, baking spices and a hint of alcohol. Excellent concentration, opulent jammy black fruit driven palate impression, nicely integrated tannins and a long jammy black fruit driven finish. The youthful opulent expression is certainly impressive. Even after all the wines, it still hits you hard. For my palate, it remains a bit monolithic and too fruit driven. If you are a true fan of SQN, your rating may be higher by a few points.

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• 2000 Sine Qua Non Syrah In Flagrante 95 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast

  This is rounder and warmer, i.e. a bit more evolved, than the 97 Imposter. Expressive nose displaying intense jammy red fruit, raspberry, cherry, charred rare steak, baking spices and earth. Excellent concentration, warm and round, good acidity, fully integrated tannins and a long jammy red fruit driven finish. Nice showing.

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• 2002 Sine Qua Non Syrah Just For the Love of It Flawed

  USA, California, Central Coast

  Corked.

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The Massandra was fascinating wine. The Doisy-Daene lost much of sweetness which was not surprising.

• 1970 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage 93 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Expressive nose displaying fruitcake, dry fig, concentrated grape juice, bitter chocolate and cognac, Still very youthful palate, good sweetness, nicely layered, medium acidity and a medium to long finish with noticeable heat at the end. It is still a bit harsh. Perhaps need another decade or two?

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• 1948 Massandra Red Port 94 Points

  Ukraine, Crimea

  More like a white port in color and flavor. Unique harmonious nose displaying Japanese plum wine, fig jam, spicy spices and white raisin. Beautiful harmonious palate, sweet than the Sauternes, high acidity and a long sweet finish. This fascinating and unique wine will last another century. The bottle weights a few pounds.

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• 1949 Château Doisy-Daëne 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

  The last wine of the night. Fully integrated palate and nose, apricot, tea, sweet spices and steel. Lost most of sweetness, good mineral presence and a medium finish with a hint of tea and apricot at the end. Excellent balance but a bit simple.

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We had so much fun that we closed down the place around 1 am. Sharing great wines with great friends was simply priceless!