Coche & Cathiard -- Go Big Then Go Home

My schedule fortuitously let me horn in on my great mates' long-planned deep dive into two of their favorite Burg producers, and I was so happy to join on the eve before my flight back to the States.

• 2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 94 Points

  France, Champagne

  Nicely developed as compared to a very primary, but thoroughly enjoyable, bottle I had a bit more than a year ago. Complex nose of apple, yeast and brioche. Robust, balanced palate of apple, citrus and salinity, with plenty of acidity. Very precise and persistent.

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• 1996 Coche-Dury Meursault 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  A stunner, so concentrated, and with an explosive finish -- amazing for a 'mere' village wine. I was especially drawn to its viscosity, reminiscent of a grand cru Montrachet's glycerin and polish.

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• 2011 Coche-Dury Meursault 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  A gorgeous Coche, with a touch of sulfur alongside the enticing, concentrated minerality. Notes of lime and some lemon oil, held in check by tight and precise tension. This bodes well for those with patience.

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• 2011 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Simultaneously elegant and energetic, with loads of citrus and crushed rock, plus a touch of sulfur. So energetic and intense, yet soft too. Many of my colleagues named this their white WOTY, not just WOTN.

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• 2011 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Matchstick nose. Floral and slightly honeyed, with a balanced mix of spice and minerality and impressive length. I was in the minority in ranking this a notch ahead of the 2011 Perrieres, which mainly was because I found it beguilingly complex and playful, almost seeming to hint at future hidden treasures to come, especially as the wine approached room temperature. In any case, this is the one my mind kept wandering back to throughout the evening.

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• 2008 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Caillerets 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Though this had a few years on the '11s we enjoyed, I found this wine a bit restrained and backward, partly because it was served a bit too cold. Firm and structured, needs a few years to round out but the promise is clearly there.

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• 2009 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  Opened several years too soon, and we paid the price in that the wine's steeliness was dominant, leaving it seemingly austere. Restrained orchard fruit and crushed rocks. In time, its powerful structure will no doubt be joined by rounder and silky characteristics. Try to be patient here.

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• 2013 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Fresh and appealing, if not overly complex at this early stage. Jammy red fruit notes, light on its feet, with bright acidity. A fascinating wine from relatively young vines.

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• 1999 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  From a magnum. A somewhat divisive wine for our group. I loved its spice profile, with a camphor note I felt gave the wine an appealing earthiness. Others found it distracting and borderline flawed, but for me this was a fresh and inspiring bottle.

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• 2001 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Faulty cork or perhaps heat damaged, but nothing was there for this wine.

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• 2007 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  My second chance to taste this. Still fairly primary, with bright rhubarb and cherry notes alongside some waxiness. Balanced and energetic, great stuff indeed.

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• 1996 Sylvain Cathiard Romanée St. Vivant 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

  A brilliant bottle, just nearing but not at its peak (and with much more than a decade of promising drinking ahead). Expansive mouthfeel, with silky tannins and balanced red fruit, with a touch of bramble to keep it especially interesting. Effortlessly powerful without even trying to impress.

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• 2012 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 93 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Really coming together beautifully, with ripe tropical pineapple, lychee and honey notes along with touches of sulfur and spice. In perfect balance already, but age should enhance its subtle appeal.

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It was a treat to savor and compare these treasures, the only flaw being that the bar for Burg satisfaction is now set even higher. My early wake-up and intercontinental flight was no problem -- drinking these beauties was like sipping some ethereal nectar, no ill effects whatsoever...