Light to mid gold. Quite rich on the nose. Similar on the palate. Served blind I wondered whether it was a 2005. Seems to pull itself together a bit with air though and start to show more minerality and grip on the nicely chewy finish without losing the richer front end. On the basis of this bottle ready, but starting to give hints of something a little oxidative on the attack. ****
Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
Similarly fun and interesting as the last bottle. Full and ripe nose with clearly definable top notes of Viognier and Sauv Blanc against the more baritone Chenin. Lots of chewy texture. Interesting wine, serious but with a definite fun side. ***1/2
Served blind this is obviously mature Rioja, and feels like Tondo. Mid 70s maybe. Some waxy lanolin but also a lightness and a freshness. pristine. Persistent and nuanced. Maybe just a fraction light on the finish, but that's super picky. Really lovely wine. ****
Served blind this is obviously sherry, but what sort? Light, slightly bronzed pale amber. Very light and vibrant on the nose. Slightly honeyed rosewater too. So delicate and soft and nuanced. Palo Cortado?! Wow. A million miles from a 'standard' EN take on PC with it's intensity and bite. 18%abv but feels closer to being a table wine strength than a sherry. Really dances and caresses the palate and nose. Really super. The antidote to "I don't like Palo Cortado". ****1/2
Very lifted nose. Briary raspberry with some kirschy top-notes. Blind the nose reminds me of a Rdge Zin with some age. Very virant. The palate is more brutal though. Uber modern. Manages to seem far more alcoholic than its 13.5%abv. Far more. Well, apparently it's Rioja, but not as we know (or love) it. A four star nose and a two star palate. *** but your mileage may vary.
BBR label. Mid garnet. Nose quite cab led and very much of it's place. Fading a little, but still plenty of interest. The fruit a touch faded. Holds well in the glass for the 20 minutes or so before it's consumed. ***1/2
Obviously neb nose, so having guessed Barolo incorrectly, it must be barb and probably a Prod. Bright raspberry fruit cut through with black tea. Still plenty of grip on the palate, just starting to soften a little at the edges. Lovely. ****
Mid to full garnet. Younger and more vibrant than the 66 Giscours, perhaps lacking some of the lushness up front of the 75 Giscours. Clearly proper claret though. Seems somewhere between Pauillac and St Julien, clearly left bank but nothing more definitive. Fruit just about there still. Traditionally styled and drinking well, though probably approaching time to drink up. ***1/2
Following on as a 'backup' to the 66, the chances were this was Giscours too. The nose is far richer and more recognisably Margaux. Younger, but not hugely so as it turns out though I was a decade even younger in my guess. Just a touch of hardness on the finish that points to 75, but plenty of lush and rounded fruit to cover most of it. Nicely resolved and a treat to drink. Far better than a bottle (same source) six years ago. ****
Bright ruby, quite dense. Burgundian nose by Piedmonte palate, though the latter was probably a result of it being served quite cool. Silky, but lots of grip and good acidity. Needs time (it appears that I suggested another couple of years two years ago. Let's go for another five!). Absolutely proper, and its all there. Patience! ***(*)
2004 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese 88 Points
Germany, Nahe
Very drinkable with good attack and mid-palate complexity, but pulls up short. Lacks persistence and definition on the finish. Decent. ***
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2002 Joseph Perrier Champagne Cuvée Josephine 91 Points
France, Champagne
Light to mid gold. Quite rich on the nose. Similar on the palate. Served blind I wondered whether it was a 2005. Seems to pull itself together a bit with air though and start to show more minerality and grip on the nicely chewy finish without losing the richer front end. On the basis of this bottle ready, but starting to give hints of something a little oxidative on the attack. ****
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2013 L.A.S Vino CBDB Chenin Blanc Dynamic Blend 90 Points
Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
Similarly fun and interesting as the last bottle. Full and ripe nose with clearly definable top notes of Viognier and Sauv Blanc against the more baritone Chenin. Lots of chewy texture. Interesting wine, serious but with a definite fun side. ***1/2
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1973 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia 93 Points
Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Served blind this is obviously mature Rioja, and feels like Tondo. Mid 70s maybe. Some waxy lanolin but also a lightness and a freshness. pristine. Persistent and nuanced. Maybe just a fraction light on the finish, but that's super picky. Really lovely wine. ****
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NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Palo Cortado 75 "Sanlúcar" 94 Points
Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
Served blind this is obviously sherry, but what sort? Light, slightly bronzed pale amber. Very light and vibrant on the nose. Slightly honeyed rosewater too. So delicate and soft and nuanced. Palo Cortado?! Wow. A million miles from a 'standard' EN take on PC with it's intensity and bite. 18%abv but feels closer to being a table wine strength than a sherry. Really dances and caresses the palate and nose. Really super. The antidote to "I don't like Palo Cortado". ****1/2
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1999 Artadi Rioja Grandes Añadas 87 Points
Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja
Very lifted nose. Briary raspberry with some kirschy top-notes. Blind the nose reminds me of a Rdge Zin with some age. Very virant. The palate is more brutal though. Uber modern. Manages to seem far more alcoholic than its 13.5%abv. Far more. Well, apparently it's Rioja, but not as we know (or love) it. A four star nose and a two star palate. *** but your mileage may vary.
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1966 Château Giscours 90 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
BBR label. Mid garnet. Nose quite cab led and very much of it's place. Fading a little, but still plenty of interest. The fruit a touch faded. Holds well in the glass for the 20 minutes or so before it's consumed. ***1/2
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2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pajè 92 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Obviously neb nose, so having guessed Barolo incorrectly, it must be barb and probably a Prod. Bright raspberry fruit cut through with black tea. Still plenty of grip on the palate, just starting to soften a little at the edges. Lovely. ****
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1983 Clos du Marquis 90 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Mid to full garnet. Younger and more vibrant than the 66 Giscours, perhaps lacking some of the lushness up front of the 75 Giscours. Clearly proper claret though. Seems somewhere between Pauillac and St Julien, clearly left bank but nothing more definitive. Fruit just about there still. Traditionally styled and drinking well, though probably approaching time to drink up. ***1/2
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1975 Château Giscours 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Following on as a 'backup' to the 66, the chances were this was Giscours too. The nose is far richer and more recognisably Margaux. Younger, but not hugely so as it turns out though I was a decade even younger in my guess. Just a touch of hardness on the finish that points to 75, but plenty of lush and rounded fruit to cover most of it. Nicely resolved and a treat to drink. Far better than a bottle (same source) six years ago. ****
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1996 Domaine de Montille Pommard 1er Cru Les Pèzerolles 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Bright ruby, quite dense. Burgundian nose by Piedmonte palate, though the latter was probably a result of it being served quite cool. Silky, but lots of grip and good acidity. Needs time (it appears that I suggested another couple of years two years ago. Let's go for another five!). Absolutely proper, and its all there. Patience! ***(*)
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