My 50th birthday lunch
Restaurant The Fat Duck ***, Bray-on-Thames, UK
Tasted Friday, September 21, 2018 by Xavier Auerbach with 217 views
Restaurant The Fat Duck ***, Bray-on-Thames, UK
Tasted Friday, September 21, 2018 by Xavier Auerbach with 217 views
1973 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 93 Points
France, Champagne
Recently acquired at auction. From a cold and damp cellar apparently. Illegible label, vintage identified from the cork. Level 1.5 cm below the foil. Pale golden colour; the nose is slightly maderised initially, but it opens up nicely to fresher, floral and citrussy notes in the large Chardonnay glasses; the palate is sensationally fresh and vibrant for age, with that interplay between juicy citrus and brioche which is so typical for Dom Pérignon, only a little nutty evolution, a hint of honey, and a gentle prickle; clean and long finish. A wonderful surprise, excellent presence on the palate, really much better than I had anticipated.
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1998 J.B. Becker Riesling Spätlese 92 Points
Germany, Rheingau
According to Mosel Fine Wines, this wine was exclusively made from Wallufer Walkenberg fruit, even if the vineyard is not mentioned on the label, 10.5 gr/l residual sugar. Youthful but intense, lemon yellow colour with green reflections; fantastic nose, deep and complex, ripe lemon and peach, earth and spices, lovely minerally depth; intense and playful palate, creamy lemon, hint of wax, perfect weight (12% ABV), lively, even crisp acidity, subtle bitters, hardly any sweetness; good resonance and length. Quite amazing.
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2015 Paul Lato Chardonnay le Souvenir Sierra Madre Vineyard 92 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
Tasting blind, I could have easily confused this with a top Chassagne Premier Cru from a ripe vintage (2009 Philippe Colin Chenevottes comes to mind), very Burgundian in style, combining Californian abundance with old world precision and restraint, well judged high quality oak, firm structure, good flavours, very good length. A beauty.
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2009 Coche-Dury Monthélie 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Monthélie
Mature but lively appearance; classic Côte de Beaune nose, lightly honeyed, warm yet delicate, whiff of flowers, nutty warmth and underbrush, lovely depth; intense yet delicate palate, creamy texture, crushed red fruit, gentle tannins, pure and elegant, precise flavours; very good resonance and length.
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2010 Heretat Mont-Rubi Penedès ADVENT 91 Points
Spain, Catalunya, Penedès
Made from 100% “sobremadurado” Sumoll, 14% ABV, no. 394 out of 599 half bottles produced. Rosehip, raisin, cold tea, spices, quite tannic for a sweet white wine, hint of caramel, flowers, rich texture but elegant weight (not fortified) good intensity and length.
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2010 Château Suduiraut 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Sweet, youthful, rich, freshness and clean botrytis, very pure and precise, beautifully integrated oak, excellent persistence. Not a big or rich vintage, but elegant and playful.
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1991 Casa Manoel Boullosa Carcavelos Quinta dos Pesos 91 Points
Portugal, Lisboa, Carcavelos
It is customary to describe Carcavelos as honeyed Madeira and it holds true in this vintage. Quite structured, caramel and honey, with quite a lot of salty wood, delicately sweet but could do with a little more fruit and charm, intense and long.
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