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My 50th birthday lunch

Restaurant The Fat Duck ***, Bray-on-Thames, UK

Tasted September 21, 2018 by Xavier Auerbach with 219 views

Flight 1 (7 notes)

White - Sparkling
1973 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon France, Champagne
93 points
Recently acquired at auction. From a cold and damp cellar apparently. Illegible label, vintage identified from the cork. Level 1.5 cm below the foil. Pale golden colour; the nose is slightly maderised initially, but it opens up nicely to fresher, floral and citrussy notes in the large Chardonnay glasses; the palate is sensationally fresh and vibrant for age, with that interplay between juicy citrus and brioche which is so typical for Dom Pérignon, only a little nutty evolution, a hint of honey, and a gentle prickle; clean and long finish. A wonderful surprise, excellent presence on the palate, really much better than I had anticipated.
White - Off-dry
1998 J.B. Becker Riesling Spätlese Germany, Rheingau
92 points
According to Mosel Fine Wines, this wine was exclusively made from Wallufer Walkenberg fruit, even if the vineyard is not mentioned on the label, 10.5 gr/l residual sugar. Youthful but intense, lemon yellow colour with green reflections; fantastic nose, deep and complex, ripe lemon and peach, earth and spices, lovely minerally depth; intense and playful palate, creamy lemon, hint of wax, perfect weight (12% ABV), lively, even crisp acidity, subtle bitters, hardly any sweetness; good resonance and length. Quite amazing.
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White
2015 Paul Lato Chardonnay le Souvenir Sierra Madre Vineyard USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
92 points
Tasting blind, I could have easily confused this with a top Chassagne Premier Cru from a ripe vintage (2009 Philippe Colin Chenevottes comes to mind), very Burgundian in style, combining Californian abundance with old world precision and restraint, well judged high quality oak, firm structure, good flavours, very good length. A beauty.
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Red
2009 Coche-Dury Monthélie France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Monthélie
91 points
Mature but lively appearance; classic Côte de Beaune nose, lightly honeyed, warm yet delicate, whiff of flowers, nutty warmth and underbrush, lovely depth; intense yet delicate palate, creamy texture, crushed red fruit, gentle tannins, pure and elegant, precise flavours; very good resonance and length.
Red - Sweet/Dessert
2010 Heretat Mont-Rubi Penedès ADVENT Spain, Catalunya, Penedès
91 points
Made from 100% “sobremadurado” Sumoll, 14% ABV, no. 394 out of 599 half bottles produced. Rosehip, raisin, cold tea, spices, quite tannic for a sweet white wine, hint of caramel, flowers, rich texture but elegant weight (not fortified) good intensity and length.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2010 Château Suduiraut France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
93 points
Sweet, youthful, rich, freshness and clean botrytis, very pure and precise, beautifully integrated oak, excellent persistence. Not a big or rich vintage, but elegant and playful.
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White - Fortified
1991 Casa Manoel Boullosa Carcavelos Quinta dos Pesos Portugal, Lisboa, Carcavelos
91 points
It is customary to describe Carcavelos as honeyed Madeira and it holds true in this vintage. Quite structured, caramel and honey, with quite a lot of salty wood, delicately sweet but could do with a little more fruit and charm, intense and long.
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