The Papies 25th Anniversary - The Fat Duck

The Fat Duck, Bray
Tasted Thursday, October 18, 2018 by Papies with 235 views

Introduction

With two of our closest friends flying in for our 25th anniversary, luck, fate & omens played their part is us getting a table at The Fat Duck.
Great to be back here post the reopening and glad to see it even better.

The food is a fairy tale, will make everyone smile and feel like a child again. All that while keeping top quality of both flavor, complexity and presentation. All wrapped up in a very welcoming setting with super attentive stuff who go through all obstacles to make one have a superb experience.

Flight 1 - The fairy tale that is the dinner experience at the Fat Duck (6 Notes)

  • 2005 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 92 Points

    France, Champagne

    By the glass at The Fat Duck, Bray. Opened on the day and used as a by the glass wine which may have tired it a bit.
    A wine we usually rate 93+ , this 2005 maybe suffers a bit of over ripeness. Still very charming and elegant don't get us wrong, but lacked the spirited side, the energy we usually associate with it. Richer on the fruit, less mineral and a different dimension vs other more lean vintages which frankly we prefer. 91-92 on this 2005

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  • NV Gosset Champagne Grand Rosé Brut 90 Points

    France, Champagne

    By the glass at The Fat Duck, Bray. Freshly opened.
    Quite the enjoyable rose, bright and fresh (no disgorgement date given unfortunately) , soft red fruits and in no way confectionery or sweet. Very solid and enjoyable and granted it lacks the a bit of depth and complexity. Solid 90

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  • 1991 Cantina Terlan Rarity Terlaner Cuvée 97 Points

    Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Terlano

    Where does one begin to discuss about this wine.
    27 yrs young, with still a fresh feel and a vibrant palate presence. Well round, silky wine but with lots of depth of flavor and has a density on the palate, light oily side, and coats the palate in full. Soft citrus fruit, light honey touch, soft caramel at times but really what dominates is healthy and vibrant green fruit. Flinty feel too almost a smoky side. Soft mineral and with lots of balance. Such an elegant wine and a testament to this great wine maker. An experience! 97

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  • 1996 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    A wine we have tried in the past and rated 96 (may16) & 97 (feb14) clearly now well past its peak.
    Not a bad wine at all or in anyway unhealthy and barring a small touch of oxidation here and there it is still very much alive. Soft, light smoky edge, well secondary, well evolved red fruits. Round and soft , delicate on the palate but still with good presence and although past its better days still for of a charm of the old like us :) . 92-93 and drink ASAP

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  • 2016 Castello della Sala (Antinori) Umbria Cervaro della Sala 92 Points

    Italy, Umbria

    By the glass from a freshly opened bottle at The Fat Duck. Suggested by the excellent sommelier at the FD to match the snail porridge.
    We always admire how little bit of oak adds this dimension to this wine which definitely feels a lot more oaky than it is.
    Young, fresh and bright with a light glossy color. Loved the energy of this wine and blends well the green stone fruits with a tropical side of it with very solid acidity. Solid 91-92 once again

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  • 2001 Harlan Estate 96 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Decanted for a good 30 minutes and definitely helps. One needs to forget the price of this wine. Judge it for what it is not the hyped up price.
    Still very young wine, fresh, primary dark fruits, good use of oak and well managed ripeness here as expected. The nose is welcomes you in, open, singing but not shouting. And indeed this is the charisma of this wine its powerful but also elegant and in no way heavy or brash. The tannin is round almost silky but very much present, the fruit is there in loads but in balance and the length of this goes for a long time. 18 years young and easily with 20yrs more to go. 96-97 but easily could be 100 in a few years.

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Flight 2 - Blind Tasting Game /Challenge with the Sommelier (6 Notes)

A game that begun a few years back while at the French Laudry and one we try to recreate where we find good & attentive Sommeliers.
Black glasses, no guidance, He/She chooses and serves.

  • 2011 Clos Le Comte Cuvée Celine 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Served blind in black glasses at the Fat Duck, Bray. One of six served. A challenge/game by the sommelier!
    We guessed noble rot made wine, young. Fresh and soft and lacks the density and weight we would have expected. Still though very pretty wine, the freshness works well and indeed a small reminder we need to be drinking Sauternes young too, and more! 90

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  • 2013 István Szepsy Tokaji Szamorodni Édes 92 Points

    Hungary, Tokaji

    Served blind in black glasses at the Fat Duck, Bray. One of six served. A challenge/game by the sommelier!
    Very tropical, passion fruit notes. lovely ripeness on the palate and a lot lighter and fresher than its aszu cousins this was just delicious. Guessed tokaji after a small hint form the sommelier :) 92++

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  • 2010 Heretat Mont-Rubi Penedès ADVENT 90 Points

    Spain, Catalunya, Penedès

    Served blind in black glasses at the Fat Duck, Bray. One of six served. A challenge/game by the sommelier!
    We could not place this. Ripe, spices, caramel toffee. Very solid and very interesting once revealed. Solid 90

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  • 2011 Marjan Simčič Leonardo 92 Points

    Slovenia, Primorska, Goriška Brda

    Served blind in black glasses at the Fat Duck, Bray. One of six served. A challenge/game by the sommelier!
    Guessed Klein Constantia. That orange marmalade feel sent us straight to that. Surprised at what was revealed to be, sweet wine from Ribolla Gialla effectively. Lovely concentration and depth, good acidity and a fresh side. 92

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  • NV Tamagawa Time Machine 1712

    Japan, Kansai, Hyōgo

    Served blind in black glasses at the Fat Duck, Bray. One of six served. A challenge/game by the sommelier!
    The nose was full of umami and an intense soy. And the soy was the give away and thus guessed this correctly as aged sake/koshu. Not an easy one to enjoy, quite heavy, intense . Not sure how to start rating this. Did win us a chapeau moment with the sommelier at least.
    Apparently a sake to go well with ice cream

    Tech Specs:
    Brewed to a recipe recorded in 1712

    Class Junmaishu (kimoto)
    Ingredients Rice, rice koji
    Rice Kitanishiki (Hyogo Prefecture)
    Rice polishing ratio 88%
    Alcohol (14-14.9%)

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  • 2015 Alta Alella Dolç Mataró 88 Points

    Spain, Catalunya, Alella

    Served blind in black glasses at the Fat Duck, Bray. One of six served. A challenge/game by the sommelier!
    Dark and dense, sweet, intense, quite a bit of oak. Felt like a red sweet wine and we though this was pedro ximenez with some age. (Actually 100% Mataró, the local name Monastrell)
    Interesting but a bit heavy and one needs to love this sweet, cloying light oxidative style to enjoy this. 88

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Closing

We always say one might not love all the dishes but one would never be culinary complete till he/she has experienced The Fat Duck.

3 Michelin stars is an understatement here!

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