Sam Kaplan - Arkenstone, Mememto Mori, Maxem, Vangone
Tasted Friday, February 8, 2019 by csimm with 409 views
Introduction
An epic series of bottle and barrel tastings at Arkenstone's beautiful estate. Sam Kaplan's talents continue to manifest though his thoughtful craftsmanship of some of the finest wines in the Valley. Very impressive!
2016 Arkenstone Cabernet Sauvignon NVD 92 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Notes of cranberry, strawberry, red and black cherry, red licorice, and vanilla lead the way in the newest rendition of the Arkenstone NVD. Riding high with a register that currently darts around the mid-palate rather than landing square in the center, the NVD shows its youth with an understandingly primary and unresolved demeanor. It’s not a grumpy bumpkin the way some ticked-off youngins’ can behave. The NVD is more of a gangly teenager that just needs to grow a little more into its body.
Despite its lack of integration, this finishes surprisingly balanced in terms of weight distribution on the back end; no distracting astringency or bitterness to be had here (a testament to Kaplan’s sense of equilibrium in his winemaking, even with this more base model red).
For those familiar with the lineage of the NVD, the 2016 will not disappoint in the end. Give it at least another year or so to capture more depth and drop into a more seamless glide. Try again in 2020+.
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2010 Arkenstone Obsidian 93 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
Dusty blackberry, black cherry, red and black currant, and Muir Woods forest floor make up the core elements of the 2010 Obsidian (Estate). Showing some age with its earth and saddle leather notes, this sample leads with the soil elements, with the currant notes slowly picking up speed as it saunters across the palate. Balanced on the front and mid, with the back trailing off fairly quickly. Finishes softer and a little dry.
For my palate, this is in a drink now kind of phase. It does has enough acid and speed to give the impression it’ll hold for a number of years, but if you aren’t a complete radical Francophile and don’t fear actual fruit flavor in your wines, you might consider popping the cork if you’re harboring these wines in your cellar. Less flashy fruit here (a product of the vintage to be sure). A great steak wine I would imagine; less of a stand-alone sipper.
Drink now and over the coming few years.
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2016 Arkenstone Sauvignon Blanc 95 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
Performing very well since I sampled it from barrel last year, the Arkenstone Sauvignon Blanc pops onto the palate with vibrant lemon verbena, dry grass and hay, lemon and lime zest, citrus blossom, and some faint pumice flavors. A little less of the lime and kiwi elements here than with previous vintages, but a nice citric acid grip to hold the fruit in a exquisitely balanced yet energetic and exciting example of the varietal. Balance and texture are notable here as well, with a finish that is elongated with supple edges and a push of succulent yellow citrus flavors that repeat over and over again on the back end.
Very close in comparison to the intensely complex 2014 Sauvignon Blanc that I absolutely loved the first time I sampled it.
Drink the 2016 now and over the next few years.
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2017 Maxem Pinot Noir UV Vineyard 96 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
Black cherry and ripe strawberry cream lead the charge on the front end of the attack, with dark earth, Christmas spice, and rose pedal notes swiftly catching up to the rolling core of beautifully pure and ripe fruit. The gorgeous black cherry element pumps sumptuous ripe flavor to the far reaches of the back end. Finishes juicy and succulent, without any suggestion of a candied or saccharine-laced confection. And just when you think the fruit will weigh-down the tail, a faint dryness barely touches the tongue and dissipates quickly, providing even more lift to an otherwise mouth-watering conclusion.
The total delivery of flavor on the 2017 Maxem Pinot and Chardonnay highlights Sam Kaplan’s signature ability to enhance seamlessness and textural sophistication, creating a mouthfeel that is both silky and intense. The balance of depth of flavor concentration-to-grip is also admirable, with needed acid and tension interplaying beautifully with the ripe fruit. Never sweet or cloying, but compellingly flavorful and satiating.
Once in bottle, these wines will produce smiles all around for both flavor-hounds and wine geeks alike. Ultimately give the Pinot and Chardonnay a year in bottle to get fully settled-in, though the Chardonnay is so irresistible that it will be more of a hit-the-ground-running kind of gratification.
Barrel sample. 96+ solid points for the Pinot, with certain upside after 2020+.
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2017 Maxem Chardonnay UV Vineyard 100 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
An outrageously gorgeous example of the varietal. Freshly squeezed lemon juice, Meyer lemon olive oil, Bellini, yellow pear, citrus blossom, cardamom seed, and subtle rock dust. A flick of pineapple appears and disappears throughout the delivery as well, adding to the intensity and fruit concentration, especially mid-palate. Finishes decidedly pure, fresh, clean, and speedy, but also unctuously mouthwatering. A zippy lemon zest note on the tail makes for an even more exciting ride.
Smooth and seamless, layered and concentrated, all the while maintaining a cadence that marries deliberate intent with inviting flavor. Even as a barrel sample, this completely manages to dodge the hollow glycol hit that so many of even the best domestic Chardonnays can become afflicted with. No syrupy 2AM alcohol lemontini effect going on here. This is sexy sophistication at its finest, even outdoing its older 2016 sibling by a decent margin.
The total delivery of flavor on the 2017 Maxem Pinot and Chardonnay highlights Sam Kaplan’s signature ability to enhance seamlessness and textural sophistication, creating a mouthfeel that is both silky and intense. The balance of depth of flavor concentration-to-grip is also admirable, with needed acid and tension interplaying beautifully with the ripe fruit. Never sweet or cloying, but compellingly flavorful and satiating.
Once in bottle, these wines will produce smiles all around for both flavor-hounds and wine geeks alike. Ultimately give the Pinot and Chardonnay a year in bottle to get fully settled-in, though the Chardonnay is so irresistible that it will be more of a hit-the-ground-running kind of gratification.
Barrel sample. 98-100 points for the Chardonnay.
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2016 Memento Mori Cabernet Sauvignon 96 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Red and black cherry, ripe strawberry, red-purple plum, red currant, sandalwood, leather, and a little vanilla-alcohol on the periphery. Riding a little higher and redder than the LPV and Crane served beside it; mid-palate was finessed and sophisticated, if not a tad less deep than the SVDs by comparison. A youthful push of an energetic and unripe earthy cherry note provides lift and pop on the finish, with some faint booze trailing off on the final moments.
This sample really exemplified the focus and intent these wines can achieve, even in their most youthful and primary moments. The complexity is just starting to figure itself out, and has some strides it will no doubt accomplish with some short term cellaring. The standard Cabernet here shows a bit more medium-level weight distribution, with a reticence that will resolve with good ‘ol fashioned time in the bottle. As I’ve mentioned before, I typically start really falling in love with this wine around five years after vintage (the 2012 has been performing phenomenally over the last year or so).
I’ll hold these 2016s until 2021+. Definite upside to come for all in the Memento Mori lineup.
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2016 Memento Mori Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Las Piedras 98 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Black raspberry, blackberry, black and purple plum skin, black cherry, asphalt, slate, bitter chocolate, clove, and some incense. The rock elements continue to encompass and drive the rest of the flavors forward, circling back with a firmly focused and mineral-driven finish.
Though youthfully a bit tight and compacted mid-palate, the LPV is extraordinarily pure and clean, with a deliberate execution of flavors that purposely move with measured precision. A more serious and less ripe execution compared to the Crane. Ideally hold for another 2-3 years. 98+
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2016 Memento Mori Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard 98 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
Exhibiting a more fruit-driven core when compared to its LPV sibling, this sample of the Crane delivered darker and richer plum and black currant notes, with less of a mineral-driven undertow than the LPV. The front end certainly shows a perfectly executed amount of speed and drive as it makes its way across the mid-palate, holding just long enough in the center to get a feel for the balanced weight of the core. Moves along swiftly, finishing slightly ripe, with the plum and dried black currant note repeating on the tail. A floral note provides lift, as does a red/black licorice flavor that ultimately broadens the overall spectrum of the profile.
Mouthwatering while simultaneously swift in delivery, this Crane shows sophistication by way of its focus (and in some cases, restraint) as it forbids the fruit from becoming too "fruity." At times, the Crane site can seemingly push out blasts of fruit that can test one's tolerance for ripe black cherry and plum fruit (it is the reason I sometimes favor LPV over the more fruit-dominant Crane with other houses' versions from these vineyards). Crane can (and should) convey minerality no doubt, but it is generally less so than the more "pebble" injected namesake of the Las Piedras. In any case, terroir aside, this version of Crane enables both fruit and frame of coexist with a balanced, non-cloying demeanor. There are suggestions of blue rock here, but it's currently the fruit that leads the charge. Luckily, ripe equals juicy and full-flavored, not sweet nor overly-mature.
Hold this version of the MM Crane for another two-three years. It shows a great deal of promise with some short-term cellaring. 97-98+ points.
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2015 Arkenstone Estate 95 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
Black raspberry and black cherry dominate here, with cinnamon, anise, and some faint cedar filling out the overall profile. Determined tannins, with a grippy frontal attack. Hyper-focused, with the fruit swiftly rushing to the mid-palate and pleasantly downshifting just in time to feel some nice weight and flavor before speeding off again to a firm finish. Notable cut and acid on the back end.
Give this another two-three years in bottle to loosen up and broaden its flavor profile a bit more. Kaplan’s signature purity, focus, and freshness show well here. Short term cellaring will invite additional depth. Certain upside after 2022.
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2018 Memento Mori Cabernet Sauvignon Vine Hill Ranch
USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
From two separate barrel samples (Clone 4 and 337), the VHR is slated to be a new SVD from Memento Mori starting in 2017. This is an extremely exciting edition to the already mind-blowing bad-assery that has already come from the duo of LPV and Dr. Crane SVDs from this house.
2018 VHR Clone 4 - From a later picked block, this showed like a rocketship-injected Las Piedras, with massive dark black fruit, black char, and some minerality. Obviously heavy on the fruit attack, but with a gothic unpinning that spoke to some brooding qualities that will add to the depth of this wine once all is said and done in-bottle. This sample was right up my alley, as I am often drawn to the concentrated black core fruit of these Cabernets. No over-ripeness here, with a perfect combination of speed and flavor, especially considering how primary the fruit is currently. Quality, pure fruit with a larger than life performance, however, balanced-out well with a husky "I'm Batman" cornerstone that I hope will steer the final product more toward this style (in contrast with the more brisk 337 Clone). A disciplined renegade with a seriously awesome coolness factor.
2018 VHR Clone 337 - From an earlier picked block, this sample was a party-rockin' higher-toned sprinter, with a racy attack and an equally zippy finish. Popped firmly in the mouth with black-red fruited fireworks and continued Karate-chopping its way to the back end. This is similar to my limited experience with VHR Cabernet, which comes off with more of a red-fruited, high-riding tannic Jack the Gripper profile. "A wine that needs time" type of demeanor. A much bigger pucker factor here, though purity of fruit is clearly super high.
It will be fascinating to see which side of the fence this wine ultimately finds it place at and how Sam Kaplan will navigate through these diversely materializing samples. 2018 can't come soon enough. Exciting times!
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2018 Memento Mori Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard
USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
Barrel sample. Much in line with the 2016, the 2018 Memento Mori Crane seems to be headed on a trajectory that highlights gorgeous, dark black and red core fruit, most especially in regards to elevated purity and sophistication. The mouthfeel and texture are generously round, but with a verve and tension that keep the core locked in step. A wine slated to perform in the 97-100 point arena. My personal favorite amongst the fledgling 2018s from Memento Mori.
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2018 Memento Mori Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Las Piedras
USA, California, Napa Valley
Barrel sample. Enticing and brooding blackberry and obsidian flavors lead the way on the front wave of the attack. Swiftly tannic and mineral-driven within seconds of delivery, skirting across the mid-palate with a swift, rocky hit of black pebbles and river rock. Drying on the finish, with a clamp that lets you know this will likely be one built for aging. The youthful black fruit reappears on the tail, supplemented by scortched rocky earth and graphite notes.
To no surprise, the LPV flaunts its terroir with a backbone armor of staunch minerality. It is a little unforgiving in its current state, as it is driven chiefly with an avalanche of pitch-black gravel and primary blackberry fruit. Much less fruit-driven than its Crane sibling.
I am always enthralled by this site and this wine, especially because it always seems to “arrive” at some point in the exercise (usually after a few years in bottle) with a heightened complexity that the more fruit-bound monsters can’t compete with. The LPVs done right by a few select houses add a cerebral element that I’m personally drawn to across vintages. This 2018 will undoubtedly be another success once its mineral and fruit elements begin to amalgamate in more ordered fashion. If you get your hands on these special bottles, sit on them for a while. 96-99+ point potential here.
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2018 Vangone Cabernet Sauvignon Estate
USA, California, Napa Valley
Barrel sample. Dark and dense, rich and concentrated, this Vangone is a stellar example of a decidedly monstrous fruit core encompassed by a formidable but amazingly flavorful robe of sweet tannins. Powerfully voluptuous without being chubby or sluggish. Quality juice to be sure, flaunting blackberry, black raspberry, bitter chocolate, and some faint dust notes.
Mid-palate weight and concentration are most notable, as is the overall intensity. The kinship between this 2018 and the 2016 version is striking, which is an absolutely great thing, instilling confidence in the notion that 2018 will ultimately produce a captivatingly elevated wine a few years from now (slated to spend 3 years in barrel). I suspect that this wine will follow along a similar pathway as its two-year-older brother. A brand to definitely follow. 97-99+ point potential here.
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2016 Vangone Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 99 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Barrel sample. So the only reason I didn’t just jump straight to 100 points on this phenom was because I have had no experience with this wine label and had never even heard of Vangone until this day of sampling both the 2016 and 2018 versions with Sam Kaplan. The reality is that this was indeed a perfect performance as far as my humble palate was concerned.
After marathoning through a ton of previous bottle and barrel samples of heavy-hitter Napa Cabernets (and mind you we are talking about some stiff comparative competition here), along comes this monster and just lands on stage in a grab-you-by-the-ears and get the F out of the way cuz I’m back biotches James Brown a-la Dave Chappelle kind of fashion. It really is a “WTF did I just put in my blabber hole” kind of experience...in the best of ways.
Beautiful and powerful black, purple, and blue berry core fruit, with pulsating flavors of bitter chocolate, cinnamon stick, dark wet mulch, black earth, black gravelly asphalt, wet tar, and purple pansies on the side of a rocky cliff next to Staubbach Falls in Lauterbrunnen (yeah that’s right... look it up)! - funny when a wine can trigger some crazy random personal reference buried somewhere in the back of your skullcap...
Such depth and concentration coupled with exceptional energy. Mid-palate is stooooopid intense, with a finish that hasn’t stopped for 40 days and 40 nights. I tell ya what though, I’m gonna be super pissed if this juice gets into bottle and does anything but act any differently than it did during this tasting. I do NOT want this to the only time I hit this wine at such a sweet spot. Sure it’s a barrel sample and all that and it’ll morph once in bottle, but I’m optimistic this wine will truly be a bottle of 100 point badassary once it makes its way to the masses. Crazytown good. 99-125+ point potential.
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2017 Arkenstone Syrah 94 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
And the headline reads... “Herd of hairless yogurt-fed Moroccan goats fatally entangled in a summer-ripened blackberry patch in the scorching 120-degree Sahara. ‘Goat Parfait’ becomes new Moorish trend.”
Barrel sample. Powerfully ripe blackberry, with gamey roast beef, scorched earth, massive oak char and campfire, chewy chocolate, and spice. A weighty wine, with a bulldozer of an attack. Mouthwatering flavor and fortitude all wrapped up in a pulsating ball of intensity. A floral/violet lift keeps it from becoming too heavy. A wine to lay down for a couple of years after bottling.
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2017 Arkenstone Estate 94 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
Barrel sample. Young and vibrant, with a fruit-forward attack that pushes out blackberry pie, purple plum, black raspberry, and bitter chocolate. Well balanced and mouthwatering, with the fruity compote flavors taking center stage at the moment. Showing less tannins and acid when compared to the gobs of fruit on the delivery. Quite possibly a more accessible Arkenstone Estate this vintage once it hits bottle and has a year to settle in.
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