2018 Visit to Domaine Henri Gouges with Grégory Gouges

Nuits St. Georges
Tasted Monday, May 6, 2019 by HowardNZ with 224 views

Introduction

To be honest, I was not really a fan of the 'old style' Domaine Henri Gouges. It was similar to the 'old style' (pre-2007) Domaine Faiveley. I am a huge fan of the 'new style' Faiveley. However, I have had less opportunties to taste recent vintages of Henri Gouges, so this tasting was of real interest.

Grégory has been winemaking since 2007, he told us. He showed us through the paintings in the drawing room, explaining the history of the Domaine. In 1919 Henri Gouges started the Domaine, in 1924 making their first release of wines from their own grapes. Grégory showed us a 1930s era - pre AOC - painting of Burgundy climats showing the 'Grand Cru' of Les Saint Georges. Grégory explained that even though - or perhaps because - Henri was influential in the establishment of the AOC he did not lobby for Grand Cru status for Les Saint Georges.

Today the Domaine has 15 ha of vineyards.

Grégory noted that Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges sites are all on the south side of the village, showing more substance and structure than typical for wines from the more refined Vosne side. Hence he said that since 2007 the wine style had "evolved" to "more elegance".

He showed us around the 'new' - again, 2007 - gravity-fed winery and pneumatic pigeage system, designed to assist with more gentle winemaking. He said that his winemaking style was all about "respecting the terroir and vintage" which, he said, we would see for ourselves, when we compared his 2017s and 2016s.

Grégory said that the average vine age for Henri Gouges was about 50 years. He said that the overall goal for the Domaine was 30 - 35 hl per ha. He said however that for vines around 80 years of age produce at only about 20 hl per ha. Grégory thinks this is too little so he ensures that he mixes in grapes from younger vines in these cuvées.
He noted that all of his wines see about 20% new oak.

We began tasting barrels of 2017s. Grégory noted that his 2017s were "less concentrated than his 2015s or 2016s". They were but, to my taste, they were a vibrant, elegant set of wines. He expects them to be quite forward saying that you can open his 2017s in (only) "2 - 5 years from release".

Flight 1 (9 Notes)

  • 2017 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges

    Grégory noted that the 2015 and 2016 versions of this cuvée were both more concentrated than this 2017. In 2016, half of this cuvée was lost to frost. A bouquet of red cherries, rusty metals and some dark florals. To drink, still a sufficiently substantial wine. Fresh, bright acidity. Oak not over-prominent. "A fresher, more forward vintage of this cuvée, like the 2007 or 2011, I will bottle it earlier than normal", said Grégory. Approachable but serious grip and some chunky tannins on the moderately lengthed finish. Give it 2-3 years to settle.

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  • 2017 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets St. Georges

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    A Gouges Monopole. An interesting nose: spices, red and black currants and minerals. A smooth, clean entry to the palate, followed by substantial matière and power. Precise and quite refined. Suave, spherical tannins. As Grégory said, "a good representative of this side of Nuits St. Georges ... a little strict and austere but with more structure". I agreed. Very good.

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  • 2017 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    A lifted nose of rusty metal, river boulder, a little dark spice and plum. Richer and rounder in the mouth, silkier, more refined tannins. Preferred over the Clos des Porrets, more elegant but also more fruit volume and structure. Some grip on the back palate.

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  • 2017 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    From a site just above Les Saint Georges. A spicy, perfumed, finessed nose of red currant and cherries under spirit. On palate, the best wine yet. "More elegant but bigger definition", as Grégory noted. Dense with good mid palate fruit weight. "A long finish", Andrew said. Grégory mentioned that for the 2018 Vaucrains he had lost 30% of the crop to hail.

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  • 2017 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    A beautiful bouquet. A mélange of red and black berry perfumes with earth and minerals and a touch of spicy oak. In the mouth, surprisingly approachable. Silky and seamless with fine grained tannins. Rich but austere at its core. Real subtance, persistence and power. Unsurprisingly, the best of the 2017s.

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  • 2016 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    We moved to tasting some bottles. I preferred the 2016 over the 2017 version of this cuvée. A 'fatter', more opulent nose. Cherries and currants, with some plums. Relatively open on palate, on the day. Richer, riper and denser than the 2017 Les Pruliers, with more depth and concentration. "Upright and bold compared with the 2017s", stated Andrew. "With the frost, we had reduced yield but we got excellent ripeness and concentration on the fruit left", said Grégory, "give it 7 - 10 years".

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  • 2015 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets St. Georges

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    Grégory then opened a 2015. What a difference on the nose! The suggestion of much more matière. Very dark fruited with black plums and some crème de cassis. "A hot and very dry vintage ... the wines showing less pinosity, but more structure", said Grégory. Huge architecture, power and volume. Serious grip on the finish. A very good wine but very different to the 2016 and 2017s. Give it 10+ years.

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  • 2014 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets St. Georges

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    This was a good comparison, contrasting the 2014 vintage, with the earlier ones. Spice, herb and some floral perfumes, less darkly fruited than the 2015. A lovely nose. On the palate, sufficient fruit weight and power but in excellent balance. Refreshing, precise acidity. Lovely tension, focus and minerality. Quite long. A favourite wine from the tasting. Give it 4-5+ more years though.

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  • 2007 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    Finally, a wine from the first year of the 'new style'. And another great comparison, because, as Grégory said, "the '07s looked like the '17s, when they were made". The wine of the tasting. On bouquet, some development, fresh and dried mushroom, red and black fruit, dried herbs, minerals and clay. The palate in a great spot right now. Refreshing acids. Mid weight only but precise and detailed. Drinking well now - with some secondary nuance - but with years to go.

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