Ducru Beaucaillou - 90 year Retrospective

The Commanderie de Bordeaux of Boston hosted an exceptional tasting of Ducru Beaucaillou at the Boston Harbor Hotel. The tasting was a collaboration between the Commanderie, Bruno Borie, Meritage Restaurant, and Englishman's Claret.

Bruno is doing a rare tour of the US and visiting key markets starting in Boston. He generously shared the 2003, 2005 and 2009 vintages to give a picture of the modern era under his direction.

Older vintages were meticulously sourced by Englishman's Claret, and I must say his tendancy for going overboard to select high provenance bottles paid off in spades at this event.

• 1929 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Started out with volatile acidity and some oxidative notes, but as these blew off it gave way to a light fine and powdery palate of a wine in its twilight. Nose: Raspberry, sweet orange peel, spice, sous-bois and bits of cherry. Palate: Just light and acid driven with powdery tannin delivering the nuances of fruit, spice and tertiary wood.

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• 1934 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  WOW outstanding. This really is a wine that knocked me out of my chair. Served from magnum, and at total testament to the quality of these bottles when properly stored over the long haul. In this flight the color was so much deeper than the 29. Nose of beef blood, plum, ginger, spice, lavender and black cherry stem. Plate was delicate yet vigorous with blackberry, raspberry and thyme. Cedar, biscut and violet notes rippled through the edges of the palate.

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This flight was a look at the wines produced under Bruno Borie, and shows and evolution in his management of the estates starting in 2003. Bruno is quite humble and reserved at first, but he is very proud of the work he has done at Ducru Beaucaillou. These wines told a great story, and his discussion of the vintages was fascinating.

• 2009 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Incredible for its depth and black fruited profile. Ducru absolutely tattooed this one with penetrating black tannin and then surrounded it with soft fat Plum and Black cherry fruit while notes of truffle, cocoa, licorice thyme and spice play supporting parts to lend complexity. A deep black pool of a wine right now that is brimming with potential.

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• 2005 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Precision sums up the 2005 at Ducru Beaucaillu. The nose sharply delivers black cherry, cassis, rose petal, cedar and spice notes. More of these appear on the palate and it is a refreshing break from the riper larger scaled wines on either side. Precise black fruited notes on the palate accented by cedar, spice and earthy notes hold promise for a very successful future.

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• 2003 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Likely one of the freshest 2003 left bankers that you will find. No notes of excessive extraction or reductive VA. Fresh blackberry, black cherry preserves and jammyness you might expect, but this is balanced by marks of acidity and the terroir of Ducru. Bruno's first vintage leading the estate, and he explained how he made the risky decision to leave the canopy heavy when valuable warm days marched on. I have had other bottles of the 2003 that did not live up to this one, but ex-chateau clearly this is a great wine regardless of vintage.

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A perfect flight to quickly take you from the modern wines to classics made generations ago. Very interesting to see the technology of the modern era slip away in each of these wines.

Each showed a more raw perspective on the terroir and vintage than the wine before it.

• 2000 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Although there were no "dogs" at this table, the 2000 was perhaps the one wine that underwhelmed a bit. Cut from a different approach than the wines in flight #2 the blackberry fruit is layered with mineral, truffle and oak at the moment. On the palate herbal characteristics of the cabernet were on display above the fruit, masking the beautiful gingerbread spice, morello cherry and cocoa powder notes in this wine.

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• 1982 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Smokey brooding and a bit tight at the outset, but as it opened in glass the 82 showed why this vintage has such a big reputation. Layered black fruit, cedar and tobacco in perfect harmony. Evolution could be long as the more nuanced spice, truffle and red fruited characteristics in other vintages here have not yet emerged.

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• 1970 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  The only reason this did not land in the top three tonight was that the 34 and the final flight were so extraordinary. Silky black fruit of blackberry, currant and cassis and wrapped with loamy earth, sweet sandalwood and ginger spice. Powerful yet giving from magnum, and focused in by restrained balance.

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Wines that define what we all adore about Ducru and its potential to transform into thrilling wines at 50+ years old. These were what we hope every vintage will turn out to be.

In my lifetime will I see this kind of performance from 2015, 2016 or 2018? Who knows. Enjoying these artfully crafted wines made generations ago can only make you wonder.

• 1962 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Cedary tobacco, red cherry, black currants, and wild berry notes that build and build. Another example of why Magnum is the ultimate format for aging wine. The 62 really strutted and showed a full throttle cedar, cigar and stone. Exhibited classic ginger spice and black fruit in the finish.

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• 1959 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 98 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  The muscular date tonight for the sensual and lithe 55. The 1959 was equally off the charts in its expression of terroir and the vintage. Dried black fruits, spice, smoke and candied cherry notes. Supported by beautiful spice and cigar box.

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• 1955 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 97 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Good god, does Bordeaux get better than this? In a flight of all-star performances the 55 seemed to be the consensus favorite at the table for its sensual aromas and silky, finely integrated palate. Absolute fireworks on the palate here with currant, lilly, ginger, spices and caramelized cherry. Incredibly long perfumed finish that fills the nasal cavity for minutes.

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I have never before experienced this deep of a retrospective tasting of one chateau. To say it was likely a once in a lifetime event is an understatement. The fact that every wine showed well is also miraculous.

The many faces of Ducru were on display, and the way they all wove together was quite impressive. A night I will not forget.