Q2 - 2019 Tasting - Alsatian White Varieties from around the World

New York, NY
Tasted Saturday, May 18, 2019 by retired_and_roving with 221 views

Introduction

The theme for this quarterly meeting of our Tasting Group was White Alsatian Varieties from around the World. The majority of the wines came from Alsace with some additional entries from Germany. A totally unexplored area for me - I was looking forward to this as an education opportunity. What became pretty clear to me is that I have very little tolerance for sweetness in wine unless there is a lot of acidity. Reactions to the wines seem to split between those with sweet leaning palates and those without. Not surprising then that my two least favorite wines were those that received the most votes by the group - in both cases I found these wines to be overwhelmingly sweet. My other discovery is how much a pretty smelling wine can influence my overall perception. The Gewurtraminer and Pinot Gris can be highly aromatic and with enough balancing acidity these definitely fall in my wheelhouse. The petroleum nose on a lot of the Riesling though is very off-putting. So probably not an area that I will place a lot of focus on in the future but fun to explore none the less.

Flight 1 - The tasting line up. (16 Notes)

  • 1997 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl

    France, Alsace

    1/17 wines tasted double blind. The nose on this was quite pretty and redolent of white flowers. On the palate this seemed slightly off-dry and soft but still had acidity that kept it fresh - finishes with a lingering minerality. Definitely seems mature - and well aged. One of my favorites in today's line up - with 2 pennies voted by me. Group overall - 3 pennies voted.

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  • 2000 Marcel Deiss Schoenenbourg

    France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

    2/17 wines tasted double blind. The nose on this had quite a bit of petroleum. On the palate this seemed overly sweet and flabby - no structure or supporting acidity. Not a style for me. Interesting - this was clearly one of my least favorites but was overall the most popular with 12 pennies.

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  • 1997 Marcel Deiss Altenberg de Bergheim

    France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

    3/17 wines tasted double blind. The nose on this had some florals and some petrol. The palate again was off-dry leaning sweet, (but less sweet than wine 2), not enough acidity to support the sugar. The mineral finish however was long and nice. Middle of the pack for me and not a group favorite with zero penny votes received.

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  • 1999 Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée Laurence

    France, Alsace

    4/17 wines tasted double blind. Ahh - that pretty honeysuckle blossom nose again. Unfortunately I would rather smell this than drink it - as this was also quite sweet on the palate and lacking acidity to balance the sugar. Middle of the pack for me and 3 pennies voted by the group.

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  • 2011 Nik Weis / St. Urbans-Hof Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese Zickelgarten

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    5/17 wines tasted double blind. Huge petroleum aromas on the nose here - very off-putting when bringing the glass up to drink. The palate however was quite balanced and enjoyable with good acidity and minerals. Middle of the pack for me (can't get past the nose) and 3 pennies voted by the group.

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  • 2015 Albert Boxler Gewurztraminer Brand

    France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

    6/17 wines tasted double blind. The nose here is floral but does not jump out of the glass like 1 and 4. On the palate this was overwhelmingly sweet for my tastes - two sips and a dump the glass for me. Just seemed to lack any balancing acidity. One of my least favorites today with 4 pennies voted by the group.

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  • 2014 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Riesling 1ÖTW Alte Reben Reserve Ried Heiligenstein

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal

    7/17 wines tasted double blind. This came across as lean and racy, particularly with the placement after #6 which was the sweetest wine in the line up. Some petrol on the nose here with a palate that wasn't giving up much other than tart fruit and minerals. Suspect this will need some time to come around. Middle of the pack for me with 1 penny voted by the group.

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  • 2011 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre

    France, Alsace

    8/17 wines tasted double blind. Gorgeous nose here - honeysuckle and white flowers in June - perfumed and lovely. On the palate this is balanced and feminine - dry with a hint of sweetness but plenty of acidity and minerality particularly on the finish. Interesting as this is the wine I brought having only tried a sip of this in the past ( I liked it then too). My favorite of the tasting with 3 pennies voted by me and 5 pennies by the group.

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  • 2001 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    9/17 wines tasted double blind. The nose on this was a bit of white flowers. On the palate it was light and pretty, slightly spritzy, tart apples and honeysuckle. Another of my favorites but just outside my top 2. 8 pennies voted by the group.

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  • 2015 Domaine Valentin Zusslin Riesling Clos Liebenberg

    France, Alsace

    10/17 wines tasted double blind. The nose on this was not too expressive. On the palate came across lean, precise and linear - tart green apple, minerals and acid. Seems young and needs time to develop. Middle of the pack for me. 3 pennies voted by the group.

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  • 2006 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune

    France, Alsace

    11/17 wines tasted double blind. Light petroleum aromas on the nose. This came across as very balanced and enjoyable to drink. In the top 6 for me today. 2 pennies voted by the the group.

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  • 2016 von Winning Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Großes Gewächs

    Germany, Pfalz

    12/17 wines tasted double blind. A bit of funk and petrol on the nose. Similar to #11 this came across very balanced to me with tart fruit and herbs and a mineral finish. Top 6 for me. Group voted 3 pennies.

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  • 1994 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl Vendange Tardive

    France, Alsace

    13/17 wines tasted double blind. I was told in advance that this was a sweeter older wine so actually tasted this last. Color is amber/caramel. Nose of toasted honey. On the palate this is very sweet and syrupy - with florals and toasted honey but for my preference just not enough acidity. One of my least favorites but very popular with the group with 11 pennies voted.

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  • 1995 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile

    France, Alsace

    14/17 wines tasted double blind. Lots of petroleum notes on the nose. Palate though is crisp and mineral, tart fruit, lingering finish. Very nice. Top 6 for me. Group voted 3 pennies.

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  • 2008 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile

    France, Alsace

    15/17 wines tasted double blind. Light petrol notes on the nose. Tart acidity on the palate with some minerals but not overly expressive. Middle of the pack for me. Group voted 2 pennies

    Also:
    17/17 wines tasted double blind. This wine showed up twice in the lineup at spot 15 and 17. Bottles tasted very similar to me. Group voted 0 pennies.

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  • 2007 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile

    France, Alsace

    16/17 wines tasted double blind. Light petroleum notes on the nose. Tasted quite similar in profile to wine #15 which makes sense since they were the same wine. Did not stand out so middle of the pack for me with 0 pennies voted by the group.

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Flight 2 - Bonus Bottles (6 Notes)

  • 2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne

    France, Champagne

    Similar to my first experience with '02 DP - I find this to be a leaner version than the '04 & '06. Seems like this one will age very nicely. Always a pleasure to try.

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  • 1991 Peter Lauer Saar Riesling Brut Reserve

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    A totally new experience for me and super fun to try! Very lean and racy on the palate with an almost apple cider type flavor on the finish. Quite refreshing and palate cleansing after so many sweeter styled Alsatian wines.

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  • 2001 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée Flawed

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Kind of a bummer that this was heavily corked as a bottle from the same lot we had a week earlier was terrific. Oh well!

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  • 2007 Château des Tours Vacqueyras

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Vacqueyras

    When your '01 Pegau is corked and your friends pull out a '07 Chateau des Tours Vacqueryras - it sure does bring the smile back to your face:-) As always one of my favorite producers. The nose has all the characteristic Rayas perfume of potpourri and tea leaves. On the palate, this is drinking really well now with cherry fruit, herbs, and black tea leaves. Very pretty!

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  • 1995 Bruno Giacosa Dolcetto d'Alba

    Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba

    Started a bit musty on the nose - but seemed to blow off with time in the glass. Quite translucent in the glass, this was all old library and dried forest floor with hints of mature cherry fruit. Fun to try.

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  • 1998 Tardieu-Laurent Côte-Rôtie

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    I was interested to try this producer for the first time. I have read that they are quite modern in their approach, but 20 years of age this was not evident. Smelled and tasted like Cote Rotie - some animal and grilled meats on the nose. The palate leaning savory black olive with some spice and red fruit.

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Closing

My top 2 wines of the tasting were the 2011 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre and the 1997 Zind-Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl - primarily due to the beautiful fragrant bouquet from both of these wines and a palate that while slightly off-dry seemed to have the requisite acidity to give lift and freshness.

Group voting Results:

12 pennies
Wine #2: 2000 Marcel Deiss Schoenenbourg

11 pennies
Wine #13: 1994 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl Vendange Tardive

8 pennies
Wine #9: 2001 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese

5 pennies
Wine #8: 2011 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre

4 pennies
Wine #6: 2015 Albert Boxler Gewurztraminer Brand

3 pennies
Wine #1: 1997 Zind-Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl
Wine #4: 1999 Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée Laurence
Wine #5: 2011 St. Urbans-Hof Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese Zickelgarten
Wine #10: 2015 Domaine Valentin Zusslin Riesling Clos Liebenberg
Wine #12: 2016 von Winning Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Großes Gewächs
Wine #14: 1995 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile

2 pennies
Wine #11: 2006 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune
Wine #15: 2008 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile

1 penny
Wine #7: 2014 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Riesling Alte Reben Zöbinger Heiligenstein

0 pennies
Wine #3: 1997 Marcel Deiss Altenberg de Bergheim
Wine #16: 2007 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile
Wine #17: 2008 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile

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