2015 Burlotto and others

Impromptu dinner to check in on the 2015 Burlottos. In summary, they are already showing very well.

Carlingford oysters

• 2007 Jacques Lassaigne Champagne Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Millésimé 91 Points

  France, Champagne

  Immediate impression of maturity, despite the relatively recent vintage - warm colour, fine bead, lots of richness on the nose. Really notable Marmite flavour through the mid-palate and onto the finish. Not obvious that this is zero dosage, as the umami richness holds one's focus. Unusual but desirable.

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Roasted redleg partridge, chargrilled pear, pancetta & elderberries

• 2015 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  At first it seems as though this is going to be a typically tannic and acidic young Barolo, but after only about ten minutes the wine opens up nicely and shows a much friendlier side. Spice and already some savoury, gamey notes. Continued to develop for about an hour until it ran out of steam and was outclassed by the single vineyards' staying power and complexity, but nevertheless very moreish.

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• 2015 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 94 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  A really distinctive and seductive wine, with flowers, tapenade and vin chaud scents, and a really fine body. Amazingly fresh and delicate considering its age and the vintage. Not as much of a knockout as its reputation suggests, but nonetheless very, very good.

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Penne, deer ragu, dried cherries and chocolate

• 2015 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Cannubi 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Really something - deep, intense and long, but also soft and with a lovely balance. Gorgeous pops of spice present themselves through the course of consuming the glass. A wine I could easily drink all night.

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• 2015 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Acclivi 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  More obviously red fruited than some of its stablemates, and also a little burlier - still fine, but the tannins are noticeable. Nice complexity of odour and flavour with splashes of vanilla, red apple and blood orange to add to the strawberry and cherry. Very strong showing.

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French cheese plate

• 2001 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 94 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  At the beginning of its plateau of maturity, this was a beautiful bottle tonight. A lovely deep nose that reminded me of Bordeaux, with additional liquorice, spices and exotic soap. High toned and hedonistic, and so smooth and weightless, this disappeared way too quickly.

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• 1971 Cantina Mascarello Barolo Flawed

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Not going to give this a rating - it was perfectly drinkable, but some combination of oxidation and transport made it very muddy in colour, and very tertiary. Reminded me of a 1932 marsala I had recently. We enjoyed drinking it, but I can't rate it comparatively with other wines.

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Lovely tasting through these wines.

The overall feeling from the Burlotto wines was of a sweet, welcoming freshness, with really fine tannins. Just delicious, as was the Cappellano.