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2015 Burlotto and others
67 Pall Mall
Tasted October 24, 2019 by NickA with 215 views
Introduction
Impromptu dinner to check in on the 2015 Burlottos. In summary, they are already showing very well.
Flight 1 - Champagne (1 note)
Carlingford oysters
White - Sparkling
2007 Jacques Lassaigne Champagne Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Millésimé
91 points
Immediate impression of maturity, despite the relatively recent vintage - warm colour, fine bead, lots of richness on the nose. Really notable Marmite flavour through the mid-palate and onto the finish. Not obvious that this is zero dosage, as the umami richness holds one's focus. Unusual but desirable.
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Flight 2 - Lighter Burlotto (2 notes)
Roasted redleg partridge, chargrilled pear, pancetta & elderberries
Red
2015 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo
91 points
At first it seems as though this is going to be a typically tannic and acidic young Barolo, but after only about ten minutes the wine opens up nicely and shows a much friendlier side. Spice and already some savoury, gamey notes. Continued to develop for about an hour until it ran out of steam and was outclassed by the single vineyards' staying power and complexity, but nevertheless very moreish.
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Red
2015 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero
94 points
A really distinctive and seductive wine, with flowers, tapenade and vin chaud scents, and a really fine body. Amazingly fresh and delicate considering its age and the vintage. Not as much of a knockout as its reputation suggests, but nonetheless very, very good.
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Flight 3 - Heavier Burlotto (2 notes)
Penne, deer ragu, dried cherries and chocolate
Red
2015 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Cannubi
93 points
Really something - deep, intense and long, but also soft and with a lovely balance. Gorgeous pops of spice present themselves through the course of consuming the glass. A wine I could easily drink all night.
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Red
2015 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Acclivi
92 points
More obviously red fruited than some of its stablemates, and also a little burlier - still fine, but the tannins are noticeable. Nice complexity of odour and flavour with splashes of vanilla, red apple and blood orange to add to the strawberry and cherry. Very strong showing.
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Flight 4 - Mature Barolo (2 notes)
French cheese plate
Red
2001 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti)
94 points
At the beginning of its plateau of maturity, this was a beautiful bottle tonight. A lovely deep nose that reminded me of Bordeaux, with additional liquorice, spices and exotic soap. High toned and hedonistic, and so smooth and weightless, this disappeared way too quickly.
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Red
1971 Cantina Mascarello Barolo
flawed
Not going to give this a rating - it was perfectly drinkable, but some combination of oxidation and transport made it very muddy in colour, and very tertiary. Reminded me of a 1932 marsala I had recently. We enjoyed drinking it, but I can't rate it comparatively with other wines.
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Closing
Lovely tasting through these wines.
The overall feeling from the Burlotto wines was of a sweet, welcoming freshness, with really fine tannins. Just delicious, as was the Cappellano.