Old White Burgundy at Wine Watch

One of the Once in a Lifetime tasting series by the energetic owner of Wine Watch, Andrew Lampasone.

• 1990 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Yes, it’s too old but it’s still sound and very nice. Medium gold color, lovely fragrance. Composed orchard fruit. Even improved in the glass.

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• 1990 Domaine Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Dark gold color and somehow dark gold aroma like apricot compote. Intense in its way, complex. Not oxidized but lacks any sign of freshness, even for age. Quite interesting though.

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• 1996 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Jean Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Most said it was corked but I found I found it not so and interesting.

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• 1996 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées Clos de la Truffière Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

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• 1995 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Very well preserved Leflaive Premier Cru at almost a quarter century. Light gold. Pungent and funky. Concentrated and distinctive. Very Chassagne in profile even though it is Puligny. I liked it more than K and most of the others though.

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• 1996 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Floral and perfumed. Medium intensity, enough for good but not excellent. No hint of oxidation. Slightly better than Pucelles at this tasting though.

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• 1996 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Some nice menthol notes are the best part. Slightly dull and too acidic. Lacks elegance. Good though. No trace of oxidation.

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• 1996 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  This bottle was served last in this remarkable tasting of old white Burgundy, meant to be the highlight. It was. Clean. Good to excellent intensity, concentration and complexity. Gained weight in the glass. Purchased on release by the owner and stored perfectly. It demonstrates beautifully what we are missing now that we can no longer afford to give our white Burgundies a good long sleep. So sad.

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I assumed that most or even all of these except for maybe the pair of 1990s would be oxidized to a greater or lesser degree but none were. Even at this age there is a difference between the Sherry-like character of (non-premature) and the more burned popcorn notes of premature oxidation. Although one of the oldest ones were tired none of the series were oxidized. Unfortunately two of the bottles were corked. Nevertheless, a fascinating chance to taste these oldies.