The P Wine

I don’t get to drink Pétrus every week, every month - or every year. But I’ve always been curious why it is revered and of course why it is so pricey. So I thought it might be fun to round up a few of them with some age to try together in one blowout night. In order to complete the experience I decided to include some other top Pomerols from some of the vintages to determine if Pétrus is really “ better” than them. I was able to find a few Bordeaux lovers, boys and girls, to join me as well as a famous taster from California. Would the reputation be justified?

• 1989 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut Collection 94 Points

  France, Champagne

  A nice way to begin the Pétrus tasting. Both bottles the same. More lively than some of the previous bottles, good spray. Mature yet still fresh. Good acidity, just the right amount. It’s a bass note of champagne with plenty of brioche, toast and over ripe apple but not ponderous. Satisfying and delicious.

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• 2000 Pétrus Flawed

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Drat, corked and dumped.

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• 1998 Pétrus 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Fantastic young Pétrus, the accolades are justified. Purple-red. Sensational bouquet, roses, lilacs, red fruit salad. Powerful, concentrated, voluptuous, head spinning. Very supple welcome tannins. Hint of Christmas cookies. Ravishing. Will be even more exciting in five years as it integrates.

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• 1990 Pétrus 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Another splendid vintage for Pétrus, the 1990 is ripe and deep. Nevertheless the tannins are slightly dry so it’s not quite one of those near perfect experiences. Excellent rambunctious fruit though makes you want to stop picking nits and just knock it back and wallow in its deliciousness.

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• 1990 Château Le Pin 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  There aren’t too many wines that make Pétrus look like QPR but this is one and it’s a lot more rare. (This bottle was from WineBid.) The delicate cherry color looks like something from the Côte d’Or. It’s far from the extracted fruit bomb I mistakenly expected, never having tasted one before from any vintage. Super fragrant and complex, totally different from Pétrus but just as compelling. There’s a sweet herb note that stands out and blends delightfully with cherry and raspberry flavors and resolved tannins. The most interesting wine of the tasting.

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• 1989 Pétrus 98 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Only in Bordeaux do you find a wine that merges massive amounts of very sweet and juicy fruits with structure from acids, minerals and tannins such that it’s incredibly “hedonistic” yet not the slightest bit tiring. Wonderfully aromatic, spring flowers and fresh red fruits. Very ripe light plum, black cherry, raspberry. The oak is a trifle prominent at this stage so clearly this wine needs even more time to reach perfection. A great vintage for Pétrus, even better than 1990 it seems.

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• 1989 Château Lafleur Flawed

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Corked. All the other bottles in the case were fine.

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• 1982 Pétrus 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  This has to be the most disappointing vintage of Pétrus of the last 50 years given the early raves for the wine and the success of so many other Bordeaux from both sides of the river. This bottle was purchased on release and had a bottom neck fill and excellent dark color. Unfortunately it’s just too green and ungenerous, attributes that Pétrus should never have. Not that it’s bad, there’s certainly enough drive and a lot going on. The balance is just not there and no one went back for seconds.

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• 1982 Château L'Evangile Flawed

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Corked.

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• 1975 Pétrus 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  This ‘75 Pétrus is slightly more civilized and fruity than many of the excessively stern Médocs from this vintage although the tannins are still fairly robust and coarse. There’s a faint resemblance to the younger vintages but it’s more of an intellectual exercise than a nice drink.

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• 1971 Pétrus 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  True to its vintage the ‘71 Pétrus is soft and cuddly compared to the younger and bolder examples. And a bit too acidic as well. Perfectly pleasant though and enjoyable but far from exciting.

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• 1970 Pétrus 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  This bottle showed extremely well even if not as dazzling as a previous one a few years ago. A bit of excess acidity is somewhat too strong for the plummy fruit. Nevertheless the wine is vigorous and concentrated, quite a bit more than the ‘71 version. It held up exceptionally well in the glass and proved again why it is one of the top three wines of the year at the half century mark.

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• 1970 Château Trotanoy 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Notwithstanding that it’s firm and bound up in its structure, the ‘70 Trotanoy is really very good and quite similar to the Pétrus this year. The sheer intensity of the tense fruit is (almost) a match for the tannins and acidity. While you probably wouldn’t want to sip this outside by the pool, it makes a fine match for charred meat. It could go on like this for years to come.

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• 1964 Pétrus 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Incredibly impressive and far more energetic than the previous younger bottles in the lineup all the way up to vintage 1989. The bottle looked good with a top shoulder level and deep mahogany color (from WineBid). Yes it’s old school Bordeaux with its firm tannins and very slightly rough texture and obvious structure but the decades have laid down the layers of taste sensations like the rings of a sequoia tree. Very intense and persistent. Beyond all the fruit phases it must have weathered, the pleasure is half on the palate and half in the mind. Impressive and compelling. Such elusive complexity, so much a confit fruit compote. Unique and a fabulous experience.

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• 1964 Château Trotanoy 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Not only is Pétrus splendid in 1964, the Trotanoy is too, and almost a match. If these two are any indication the Right Bank was indeed highly successful, gathered after a propitious summer and before the rains. Just a trace of oxidation detracts but the intensity of black olive and truffle is compelling. There is no sweetness but the balance is excellent and this too seems like it could go on for a long time. Extended age ability is by no means limited to the northern Médoc.

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• 1959 Château d'Yquem 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Like humans, the ‘59 Yquem gains weight almost every year. Unlike us, it can be attractive if it’s balanced such as this one with the correct acidity. Thick as EVOO. Huge gobs of honey, apricot, crème brûlée and dripping with botrytis. Arguably more impressive than delicious but mighty enjoyable for a few small sips.

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I now understand Pétrus better. At its best it’s phenomenally luscious yet with that special Bordeaux character that makes it to me the best Merlot in the world without a doubt. But it’s a minefield. Too many of them are not deserving of the title even in good to excellent vintages. Despite that, they seem to show excellent vintage characteristics. And it can age very well for many decades in a few cases.
Is Pétrus “worth it”? Of course not, no wine can justify the stratospheric price. But I am really glad I am lucky enough to have the opportunity. A truly once in a lifetime experience.