Jasper on Terroir: Volnay 1er Cru

67 Pall Mall TV
Tasted Tuesday, October 19, 2021 by NickA with 76 views

Introduction

JM says he deliberately decided to avoid tasting any of the monopoles, or Caillerets, which will be the subject of separate programmes to follow.

2017 is accessible and available, with moderate alcohol. Today's 2018 turned out to be similar, happily.

Wines tasted in order from north to south.

Flight 1 (6 Notes)

  • 2017 Domaine Henri Boillot Volnay 1er Cru Les Fremiets 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Destemmed but otherwise low-intervention winemaking. They have the largest holding in Fremiets, right adjacent to Pommard, relatively high on the slope.

    Attractive pale rose colour. Beautifully perfumed, a touch of oak, lots of intensity of flavour. Rich but not sweet strawberry and honeysuckle coming through. Seamless, well-integrated, gently persistent, delicious. Supple and sexy.

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  • 2017 Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Strictly their holding is in Ormeau, but since 2006 it has been possible to label that as Mitans, the neighbouring vineyard.

    More of a crimson colour. Relatively shy nose, sharp, cherried and with a feeling of crispness that is also found on the palate. Dusky rose, tart raspberry, hazelnut, spice. Elegant structure with ovely intensity of fruit, again full of cherry. Unobtrusively delicious.

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  • 2017 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Champans 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Old vines, from the 1920s. Lower down on the slope.

    Shining ruby. Rich and rounded on the nose, with a hint of vanilla. Creamy and voluptuous on the palate, without being too brassy. Strawberries and cream, classic, then a bitterness of cherry pit on the finish. Again lots of persistence, purity and pleasure. Really pretty, almost haunting.

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  • 2018 Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Higher on the hill and south of the village. JM says this is his favourite Volnay from de Montille. Old vines, 100% whole bunch.

    Classically buttoned-up young de Montille, relatively shy and spicy on the nose, with damp earth and rich sloe gin showing themselves with air. No trace of heat, very classic, subtly grippy. Transparent and floral. Clean and mineral. Really classy.

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  • 2017 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Lots of limestone. Along with Taillepieds (which is directly to the north) it is benefiting from the warming climate.

    Big, bright nose. Delicious and nutty. Really pure sweet strawberry on the nose, almost a sense of eau de vie, though also wild and brambly, then some spice on the palate. Well-integrated, balanced and quite intense. Stony finish. JM would age this at least another ten years, but it's already tremendous.

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  • 2017 Domaine Matrot Volnay 1er Cru Santenots 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    More clay-based soil here, towards Meursault. Matrot has vines in three parcels.

    Very pure, almost natural in style, with little oak. More of a cranberry fruit, clean and lean. Refreshing, very elegant despite the evident, rather rugged tannins. I quite liked this, but at this stage (at least) it needs food.

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Closing

Wow - spectacular wines. Chequebooks out!

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