Miscellaneous Wines from Beaune and Chablis
Tasted Sunday, November 6, 2022 - Thursday, November 10, 2022 by drwine2001 with 82 views
Introduction
These are just bottles or tastes encountered along the way. Wines tasted during formal visits to domains have been separated out into other freestanding tasting event notes.
2013 Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Blancs La Haute-Lemblé
France, Champagne
(11/6/2022)
At L’Hôtel de Beaune, Beaune. Disgorged April, 2017. Pale color. Fine, transient mousse. Botanical herbs, verbena, and citrus on the nose with an intensity that singes the nasal hairs. Light to medium body, dry, amazing penetration of lemon and orange peel carried by superb acidity and a quarry’s-worth of stone. A laser-guided Champagne bomb. I can hardly contain my excitement about this bottle.
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2019 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
(11/6/2022)
At Hostellerie de Levernois. Deep red color. Floral and menthol aromas right out of the gate; the green gives way to more spice later. Elegant, medium weight and what a gorgeous soil kissed texture. A pure beam of cherry that is carried forward by cranberry acidity rather than the fine tannins. This is just beautiful, unadulterated Burgundy-what more can you say? Outstanding now, even better in 10 or 15 years.
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2019 Domaine de l'Enclos Chablis
France, Burgundy, Chablis
(11/6/2022)
At Bistro du Coin, Beaune. Medium yellow. Moderate sulfur and yellow apple. Round, medium weight, low acidity. A bit of iodine, but otherwise, not a lot of Chablis character or conviction.
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2021 Domaine Vacheron Sancerre
France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
(11/6/2022)
At Bistro du Coin, Beaune. Pale color. Overwhelming stink of bell peppers that I haven’t gotten from a Vacheron Sancerre in a looong time. Goes to show how different a vintage 2021 must have been compared to the preceding series of years. Medium weight and good texture, but I just couldn’t get past that strident greenness.
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2017 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Séchet
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
(11/7/2022)
At La Dilettante, Beaune. Light yellow. Faint florality and citrus. Mediun weight, lovely texture, classic lemon/iodine mix with fantastic underpinning of stone and juicy acidity. Not as lean or linear as Séchets can be at this age. Classic and deeply satisfying.
Retasted the next day when it had more herbs, vanillin, and roundness. It is surprisingly broad for young Séchets and doesn’t have the drive of the best vintages of this cru.
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2019 Simon Bize Bourgogne Les Perrières
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
(11/7/2022)
At La Dilettante, Beaune. Impressive ruby. Blueberry jam and soul. Medium weight, the most supple feel of any Bize I’ve had. Dark fruit and licorice, sound acidity, light tannins. Very nice and drinking well now.
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2020 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
(11/7/2022)
Opened and poured. Deep ruby throughout. Forward cherry, blackberry, and smokiness. Opulent rich ripe fruit, orange peel, bitter chocolate, and the roundest broad tannins. Amazingly, despite its concentration, it retains freshness and a sense of balance without undue weight. Just a hint of wood bitterness at the very end. I am blown away by this; it could turn out to be one of the all time great Clos des Mouches at a Grand Cru level of quality.
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2017 Kientzler Riesling Geisberg
France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
(11/7/2022)
At Le Soufflot, Meursault. Light color. Fiery grapefruit and herb aromas. Dry, light, and bracing with citrus pith, stone, and candied ginger. Electric wine that should last for decades.
Every bit as crisp and energetic the next day, but it also developed a slightly sweeter candied tropical fruit entry before launching into the acidity and limestone. A little petrol now too.
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2019 Domaine Arlaud Charmes-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
(11/7/2022)
At Le Soufflot, Meursault. Red. Reticent soil, menthol, and red fruit nose followed by increasing floral notes. Light to medium weight-it seemed quite light to start but picked up weight and sap with a few hours of air. Soft, earthy, and sinuous for such a young Grand Cru. It grew on me during the time we spent with it, and I saved most of the bottle to follow its development after recorking it overnight.
Well, I must say that the evolution with 24 hours of air was superb. Now the fruit has sweetened, it is smokier, and the feel is gorgeous with a much stronger underpinning of soil. Plus, the florality and perfume are even more pronounced. I underestimated it at first; it is now a beautiful Gevrey Grand Cru wine.
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2019 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Procès
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
(11/7/2022)
A small pour generously provided by another table at Le Soufflot, Meursault. Full ruby color. Medium to full bodied. Discretely ripe mixed black and red fruit and light oak. Round, sexy, and accessible with beautifully delineated fruit complemented by a ground coffee/bitter chocolate base and a citric lift. We didn’t have a chance to follow it, but the few sips we took were very promising.
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2019 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
(11/8/2022)
At Ma Cuisine, Beaune. Ruby core with lighter outer quarter. Building, additive aromas of blue and black fruit, gentle wintergreen, anise, earth, and finally, Asian spice. Deep and layered but not overly extracted with an extraordinarily harmonious weaving of the fruit and the persistent clay base. Not high acidity but lifted by blood orange and supported by fine tannins which add a touch of bitter chocolate. Those are the detailed descriptors, but here is the word cloud that really tells you what I thought of this wine-regal, poised, seamless, and perfectly balanced. We had to chuckle when we noted how much more of everything this had than a Gevrey Grand Cru last night. Fantastic wine with the material and balance to last for 30 years.
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1999 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Marconnets
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
(11/8/2022)
Purchased at Place des Grands Crus in Beaune (a shop that is definitely worth visiting for interesting back vintage wines). Bottle in superb shape with no ullage. Light ruby to garnet. Ripe red fruit aromas with a faint bit of funk in the background. Medium weight, some sap, simpler red fruit that has retained nice sweetness, sound acidity, light soil, and little remaining tannin. A minor dirty off note slightly mars the finish. It was interesting to me that this wine had no trace of oak at a time that Bouchard was said to use a lot of wood. Not a great wine but wholly enjoyable. Of course I thought of the young Morot Marconnets we tasted earlier today, and this bore some resemblance to its embryonic compatriot.
The next evening more VA popped out, but I still enjoyed its older savory Burgundy flavors. A real bargain for the pleasure it provided.
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2017 Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
(11/8/2022)
At Maison du Colombier, Beaune. Medium yellow. Exuberant ripe lemon on the nose. Excellent shape, volume, and acidity to complement the citrus. Over time, the barest hint of salinity and iodine, but for the most part, this could have been from anywhere and would have been hard to identify as Chablis.
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2015 Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
(11/8/2022)
At Maison du Colombier, Beaune. Dull red color. The aromas lead with tilled earth, and only with time does the red fruit start to rise. Medium body, silky feel that is anchored by the strong soil component. Tangy red fruit, some herb, excellent acidity, and a long, billowy tannic finish. Anyone who is able to identify this blindly as a 2015 is either lying or a genius since it has exactly no warm vintage traits at this point. This steadily expanded and improved over 2 hours. I look forward to trying the rest tomorrow.
By the second night, substantial changes. Now some citrus added to all of those soil aromas. It added weight and depth, now with a seamless feel and bitter chocolate anchoring riper black cherry fruit. Still, quite reassuringly, it is not a monster or overdone in any way. This is clearly more profound than it seemed at first, a casualty of not having adequate time to allow a young wine to unfold in a restaurant setting.
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NV Jacques Selosse V.O. Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
(11/9/2022)
At Le Maufoux, Chablis. Curiously, no disgorgement date was stamped on the back, but the wine staff said it was the latest release-who knows. As always with Selosse, dynamic and evanescent. Right out of the bottle, a strong mushroom scent which dissipated to reveal ginger and bitter citrus. Full, creamy, dry, and drenched with soil. We returned to it in the evening 8 hours later and some faint oxidative notes had returned, but we were even more impressed with both its stoniness and full throated “Chardonnay-ness”. Superb wine-I wish I could tell you exactly what it was!
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2014 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru
(11/9/2022)
At Le Maufoux, Chablis. Light ruby. Forward nose of blackberry and gentle, briary green notes. Medium weight and surprisingly silky and supple based upon the aromas. Like the 2015 Lignier Clos de la Roche the night before, a complex, beautifully balanced, lighter styled Grand Cru. Still some remaining tannin but not enough to stifle enjoyment now. Eight hours later when we revisited this, the stemmy aromas had receded, and the blackberry projected itself in a riper, more forward way. The texture is a knockout, with more underlying earth than I appreciated at first. I can only imagine that this will continue to expand and deepen.
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