Nine red 2006 Burgs

Noize
Tasted Wednesday, November 16, 2022 by NickA with 110 views

Introduction

No-one talks about 2006s, and no-one seems to be drinking them either... time to dig some out and find out what's going on.

Flight 1 - Creamy, cheesy gougere (1 Note)

Flight 2 - Halibut, broccoli risotto, broccoli tempura (2 Notes)

  • 2015 J.M. Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Truffière 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Perhaps the first 2015 white I've had that's lived down to the stereotype. The nose was excellent and fairly complex, exotic with vetiver and coming across fairly lean. On the palate the wine seemed overripe and sweetish, although there was a nice bitter note to counteract the lack of acidity. Decent enough, but lacked tension and wasn't sufficiently refreshing.

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  • 2018 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    VERY reduced at first, painfully so really, although luckily 5-10 minutes swirling my glass did help somewhat. That said, the nose remained the weak point, not living up to the exciting experience of swilling and swallowing this electrifying, taut, focused wine. I enjoyed the intense flavours of lime zest and vanilla, and expect this to show brilliantly in 5-10 years' time. No sign of any 2018 flab; it would have been interesting to combine this wine and the (very different) 2015 J-M Boillot we drank it with in a single glass!

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Flight 3 - Cornish chicken breast, baby potato, mushroom sauce (3 Notes)

Flight 4 - Venison Wellington (3 Notes)

  • 2006 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Blanchards 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

    Took a while to open up, starting out quite blunt and a tad oaky on the nose, then showing game, mint and sweet flowers, a little like a posh soap. Full-bodied on the palate, if not especially structured, with deep blackberry fruit and juicy balsamic. Enjoyable wine, and arguably ready to drink, but needed more lift to be exciting.

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  • 2006 Faiveley Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    Slightly subdued on the nose, and slightly austere overall, though the sense of balance and completeness was unmissable. Ample delightful red fruit, a bit grippy, plenty there but another few years required before it fully reveals itself.

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  • 2006 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    A sweet nose, with concentrated cherry fruit. Interesting on the palate, going through phases of seeming alternately on the full side, perfectly well-balanced and slightly closed and green. Distinctive flavours as well, with violet, mineral and something metallic. A little bit too serious and inconsistent, then, though its best moments were very good, and it felt as though it would come together in time.

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Flight 5 - Comte, Vacherin, Epoisses (3 Notes)

  • 2006 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Extremely elegant, quite truffley and evolved. Smoky and restrained, too. This was a good wine, but seemed too well-mannered (perhaps too well-made?!) by comparison to the other reds tonight, many of which weren't necessarily 'better' but had more personality.

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  • 2006 Domaine Rossignol Trapet Chambertin 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru

    Peppery, earthy and mentholated, with good definition and lift. So sleek and elegant it seemed a bit understated, but nevertheless an attractive sense of completeness. On the night this was my preferred red, but with hindsight it seems slightly anonymous, as though the (flawed) personality of the Maume overshadowed it - but that shouldn't happen to a great wine, should it...

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  • 2006 Domaine Maume Mazis-Chambertin 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

    This was a real outlier, in appearance as well as aroma and flavour, and in the "so wrong it's right" camp, along with things like washed rind cheese and well-hung grouse. Funkily evolved, with raw blood seasoning the intense red fruit, an impactful level of acidity and some mushroomy savour. Actually pretty good, especially with the food, and the red I'm still thinking of the next day as I write up these notes.

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Flight 6 - Digestif (2 Notes)

  • 1986 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon 93 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Coteaux du Layon

    All the wet wool, with smoke and apricot too. Very interesting on the palate, with yellow apple, sourdough, something mealy and a touch of spice. Long finish. I love these wines, with their unique and sophisticated flavour profile, and this bottle was in a good spot.

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  • 2019 Riverby Estate Noble Riesling Single Vineyard Marlborough 93 Points

    New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough

    Brought by the winemaker himself! Really distinctive nose that had intense and pure notes raisins and burnt lime, both sweet and intoxicating. Opulent on the palate, but not cloying, viscous and compelling with plenty more lime and some rose, too. Excellent stuff.

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Closing

Hmmm... don't think I've been to a Burgundy event where the wines were all just good/very good, with nothing either disastrous or exciting. A stolid vintage of unshowy wines that need food. Enjoyable to drink, but I feel no need to backfill.

The Champagne and sweeties were excellent though!

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