Pre-1996 Blind Napa vs Bordeaux (Ducru, Heitz, Abreu, Cos d'Estournel, Cask 23 & more)

Charlotte, NC
Tasted Tuesday, February 21, 2023 by kevinpatrick with 185 views

Introduction

Our tasting group met for another showdown of Napa versus Bordeaux at The Fig Tree Restaurant. All wines were pre-1996 and served mostly double-blind (I was single blind). The theme was chosen as our group is a decidedly Bordeaux-centric crowd but many fell in love with wine thanks to 80s and 90s Napa Cabs. The night was humbling, elucidating, and quite enjoyable. Wines were served in flights of 2 with guesses of Napa or Bordeaux after each wine. Top 3 Wines (in order): 84 Mondavi Reserve, 95 Abreu Madrona, 86 Ducru-Beaucaillou. The Judgement of Paris confirmed yet again. Cheers!

Flight 1 - Blind Flight 1 (2 Notes)

An interesting start to the evening as wine #1 clearly had a lot hiding behind its initial tasting. Wine #2 was stellar from start to finish. Just a joy. Wine of the flight: 6 votes for Mondavi, 2 for Pichon Baron.

  • 1989 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    3 hour double decant; served at room temperature (all other wines served with a slight chill). Heat on the nose followed by raspberry aromas. Garnet in color. Rich, dark fruit on the palate with a very pure expression. Drank like a richly textured modern Napa Cabernet with a hint of rustic notes. Commented that when we come back to this wine in a few hours it will probably be a far superior wine which was confirmed. Definitely give this wine a very long decant. This wine on the initial tasting was delicious but on the later tasting was spectacular. One vote for Wine of the Night.

    7 guesses for Napa, 1 for Bordeaux. My guess: ‘89 Pichon Baron

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  • 1984 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    1 hour double-decant. Showing some age on the rim, ruby in tone.Delightful, soft, dried fruit nose. Elegant on the mouthfeel. Extremely pleasing balance of secondary and tertiary notes while maintaining ample primary fruit resulting in an outstanding performance. Savory medium+ length finish cap off a fabulous wine. Overall Wine of the Night. Two 1st place votes, four 2nd place votes.

    6 guesses for Bordeaux, 2 for Napa. My guess: 84 Stag’s Leap Cask 23

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Flight 2 - Blind Flight 2 (2 Notes)

This was the strongest flight on this evening and I honestly could flip a coin to choose my favorite. No "loser" in this fantastic flight. Wine of the flight: 6 votes for Abreu, 2 for Ducru.

  • 1986 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Double decent 6 hours in advance, recorked within 30 minutes and then slow-ox for 60 minutes before serving. Purchased ex-chateau and was recorked in 2011. There was no sediment on the decant and an explosive nose when opened. The nose remained wonderfully aromatic with rich dark fruits highlighted by cassis. The nose was confirmed on the palate and this wine was a delight: richly textured, ample dark fruits, fully integrated tannins. A wine elegantly balancing primary and secondary notes with restrained power. Medium+ fruit driven finish. A wine I would enjoy all night if this was the only option. Third place overall for WOTN.

    5 guesses for Bordeaux, 3 for Napa. My guess: 1986 Ducru.

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  • 1995 Abreu Cabernet Sauvignon Madrona Ranch

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    2 hour double decant, recorked within 30 minutes and then slow-ox for 60 minutes before serving. The wines were selected at random but I thought this was a facsimile of Wine #3, only a couple years younger, Floral aromas and dark fruits on the nose though more restrained than the Ducru. Elegant but powerful on the mouthfeel, the rich, dark fruits with a hint of mint sing lovingly on the palate. Fully integrated tannins. Clicking on all cylinders between primary and secondary notes with a touch of tertiary. A brilliant wine with a long fruit-driven finish. Hard to believe this wine is at least 27 years old. 2nd place overall for WOTN and two votes for WOTN.

    6 guesses for Napa, 2 for Bordeaux. My guess: 90 Cos d’Estournel

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Flight 3 - Blind Flight 3 (2 Notes)

The confusing flight which made it all the more fun. Blind tasting is always a helpful reminder of how little we "know," Wine of the Flight: 7 votes for Cask 23, 1 for Cos d'Estournel.

  • 1990 Château Cos d'Estournel

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    1 hour slo-ox before quick double decant and slo-ox for 90 minutes before serving. Easily the most confusing wine on the night. Garnet in color, the nose showed nice fruits if somewhat restrained. On the palate the wine was smooth with blackberry and bramble notes but lacked expressiveness. This was a tasty wine that would hint at a smokey leather aroma but then hide behind its more fruit forward profile. A very good wine I could not put my finger on this night. One vote for WOTN.

    4 guesses for Napa, 4 for Bordeaux. My guess: 95 Abreu

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  • 1984 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Cask 23

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District

    Double-decanted 2 hours in advance and slo-ox for 2 hours before serving. Fragrant “Old World” nose of dried fruits: chalky red cherries, cassis, and leather. Nicely textured on the palate with dark raspberries and gentle raspberries notes shining against a backdrop of tobacco and forest floor. Very Bordeaux-like. Enjoyable lingering finish. An excellent wine. One vote for WOTN.

    6 guesses for Bordeaux, 2 for Napa. My guess: 96 Beychevelle

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Flight 4 - Blind Flight 4 (2 Notes)

A final curve ball and some clarity. Martha's Vineyard distinctive notes was the only true "tell" on this night of blinds and a fun capper to the evening. Wine of the Flight: 5 votes for Beychevelle, 3 for Heitz.

  • 1996 Château Beychevelle

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Double decanted one hour before dinner and slo-ox for 2 hours before serving. Aromatic nose of dried fruit, plums, and rose petals. Finely textured on the mouthfeel, this was a smooth, if lighter, wine than most on the evening delivering one of the more elegant experiences tonight. Excellent blackberry notes dominated the soft leather and tobacco notes. Savory finish trailed off softly. The color was youthful but this wine felt older. This was a wine I thought to be wonderful and a top performer for me but also one to be consumed sooner rather than later. One vote for WOTN.

    7 votes for Bordeaux, 1 for Napa: My guess: 84 Mondavi Reserve

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  • 1990 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    12 hours in advance slo-ox for 1 hour before recorking and placing in the refrigerator for 10 hours before removing and slo-ox for 2 hours before serving (compliments to Derek Polzien for this method). Dark garnet in color and very concentrated. Nose of raspberries, delicate eucalyptus and the slightest and wonderfully integrated note of menthol. Classic Martha’s Vineyard in every way. Full-bodied and richly flavored: blackberries, cassis, and bramble. Long savory finish. Another delicious showing.

    7 votes for Napa and 1 for Bordeaux: My guess: 90 Heitz Marth’a Vineyard

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Closing

Each participant only knew their own bottle and all bottles were randomized to start the evening. As the organizer, this was single-blind for me which honestly made the evening much “easier” versus my compatriots. All voting was done prior to any reveal. Six different wines received a Wine of the Night vote and every wine received at least one vote for a taster’s top 3 on the night reflecting the overall quality of these wines regardless of ranking.

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