Pier 60, New York
Tasted Saturday, March 4, 2023 by drwine2001 with 409 views
The Grand Tasting was truly spectacular this year-impressive line up of old and new producers, many fantastic wines, delicious bites from a number of fine New York restaurants, and a wonderful, spacious venue so the crowding didn't get too crazy. Congratulations to Daniel Johnnes and the Pressoir group for putting together a truly first class event.
Of the 160+ wines shown, I tasted about half of them over the 3 hours that the tasting spanned. There was such an embarrassment of riches that I completely skipped over some excellent domains (e.g., Germain, Leroux, Croix) and tasted very selectively at other tables. I'm certain that I missed some other gems, but as delicious as the wines were, it is impossible to avoid palate fatigue with so many of them.
I went into the tasting with a fair degree of skepticism about the reds-so much preceding hype and such a warm vintage. Suffice it to say that I walked away astounded and thrilled by the quality. Why? First, the overall level of the reds was just mind bending. There were very few off, frankly flawed, or just plain mediocre wines, which speaks to the winemaking strides made in Burgundy over the past few decades. Second, it was amazing to see how the winemakers (and vines?) have adjusted to increasing temperatures, at least for the moment. I expected to run into high alcohol and surmaturité but didn't find a single example of either. I feared overly rich wines wanting more acidity and freshness. While the depth of fruit and roundness are incredible, to my delight, the wines did not seem too syrupy or fat since amazingly, in most cases, the acidity is sound or much better than that. Third, unlike some other ripe vintages such as 2005 and 2015 which shut down for long periods of time, most of these wines are not so harsh or austere that they are likely to have prolonged sullen periods. They should provide joy and pleasure over a broad time span. Finally, I worried that the heat would bake the Burgundy character out of some wines, but what I tasted was not some transplanted version of ripe, New World Pinot Noir! It was Burgundy, with all of its unique soil, fragrance, and even some of the green tones that one associates with cooler years. Interestingly, some of the domains that traditionally make leaner, more structured wines used the richness of the year to great effect to produce wines with a fabulous balance of fruit and structure. It is a great year. The only caveat is that if you are averse to deeply fruited red wines, this will not be vintage for you. For everyone else, I would say that if you have the resources, go out and buy as much of these wines as you can afford, or at very least, taste a few to get a sense of whether it is for you. The nice thing is that you can buy up and down the hierarchy since the quality of the vintage pulled up the "lesser" wines as well as the expectedly great ones.
Although I sampled far fewer whites, I think the situation is more complicated. It is understandable that to some extent, the white wines have been caught up in the halo effect of the reds, but we all know that the same year in Burgundy can have quite different results in white and red. The whites I tried generally had great richness, but very variable acidity and lift. Some are frankly deficient in acidity and really lack shape and precision. You will not find the tension and cut of 2014 or even 2017. That doesn't mean that there weren't some great wines. The material can be pretty stunning, and some producers managed to retain outstanding acidity. Whereas you can throw a dart and find an excellent red, this is not the case with the whites. I think you have to be more selective to find things that are to your taste.
2020 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Medium yellow. Some salinity. Medium concentration. Soft, short in acidity and grip.
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2020 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Pale. Lively citrus and sea breeze. Better acidity than the Vaillons, but below average intensity for a Grand Cru. Moreau-Naudet was disappointing this year.
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2020 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Pale. Medium weight, sweet citrus, outstanding acidity and penetration.
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2020 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Light, greenish tint. Beautiful broth/citrus aromas. Medium weight. Lively herb and citrus, superb acidity and stone. Great cut and drive. Remarkable for the vintage and one of the best white wines of the day.
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2020 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Light yellow. Fragrant flowers and citrus. Medium to light weight. Delicate. Excellent soil and stone. No match for the Preuses today.
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2020 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Pale green. Low pitched orange. Elegant medium weight with good depth of fruit, intensity, and soil, but low in acidity. Still, a fine Premier Cru.
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2020 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Pale green. Rich citrus. Low toned fruit, lots of soil, better amplitude than the Vaillons. Great length. Excellent plus.
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2020 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Also pale. Citrus and iodine. Medium weight. Sweet fruit, then a dry earthy finish that compensates for average acidity.
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2020 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Medium yellow. Pear. Rich, round, and full. Deep fruit, light soil, excellent acidity. Delicious wine.
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2020 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Folatières En la Richarde
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Medium yellow. Higher toned. Slightly lighter than the Perrières and more steely, less ripe. Light wood, excellent acidity and soil. Potentially outstanding but it needs time.
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2020 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow. Medium weight, sappy. Tropical pineapple, less soil, excellent acidity. Elegant and clearly excellent.
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2020 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru La Chatenière Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Yellow. Toasty oak (but thankfully, no reduction). Excellent soil and pear, very good acidity. Rich but lacks the cut of the best St. Aubin.
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2020 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow. Again some wood on the nose. Medium weight, silky texture, ripe apple fruit, drier finish. Lovely effort, probably not for extended aging.
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2020 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-Charlemagne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Yellow. Deep, creamy citrus, very fine acidity, long, lingering finish filled with soil. Always an outstanding wine, it seems, and no different this year. Not at the very top as it could use more tension to balance the richness, but no complaints. It is great to see that none of these wines displayed any reduction.
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2020 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Lovely feel, excellent blend of citrus and soil but lowish acidity.
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2020 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
More silky and intense than the Maltroie. Bright bitter citrus, excellent acidity and soil, great length. This is the wine of the line up and one of the finest white Premier Crus tasted today.
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2020 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
More floral and linear than the 2 other Premier Crus, but same lovely mix of fruit and soil backed by really excellent acidity. Different style, but for me, qualitatively, it comes in just behind the Morgeot and ahead of the Maltroie.
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2020 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Citrus, pear, and soil in outstanding balance with an oaky base adding lushness and only average acidity. The material somehow compensates for that though.
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2020 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Fairly rich due to both deep apple fruit and some oak, but higher acidity giving it more cut and finesse than the Grandes Ruchottes.
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2020 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Mixed citrus and pear with tremendous depth and concentration and some creaminess imparted by moderate oak. Fantastic underpinning of earth. Again, the acidity is not prominent, or maybe it is just buried by the waves of material here. At the same time, both powerful and restrained. Complete, pretty stunning Premier Cru, and one of the top whites of the day.
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2020 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Sweet ripe fruit, low acidity, medium intensity. I was not impressed.
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2020 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Finer and deeper than the Clos de la Barre with discrete oak and less overtly sweet fruit. At least excellent.
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2020 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Deep ruby. Candied red fruit and a fine dose of soil, excellent acidity, and round, ripe tannins. Big Volnay, but I found it more exciting than the 2 whites.
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2020 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Meix Chavaux
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Very oaky. Rich orchard fruit, then a resonating acidic finish. Very good.
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2020 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Very much in the same mold as the Meix Chavaux but with greater depth and intensity. I see the quality but have a hard time getting past all the wood in these 2 wines.
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2020 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Amazingly ripe, deep fruit without being tropical or exotic. The sheer material here does a better job of covering up the oak. An exhilarating rush of late acidity leads to a more lively finish. Outstanding and clearly the best of the bunch. For the future.
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2020 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Yellow. Discrete light oak and beautiful pear fruit. Very good acidity, excellent mouth feel. Very, very good if perhaps not a top vintage of this cuvée.
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2020 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Ruby. Ripe bitter cherry and soil with excellent depth. Medium plus weight. Not as explosive as a bottle in Beaune last fall, but this still shows every sign of this being an outstanding year for the red Clos des Mouches.
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2020 Domaine des Croix Corton-Charlemagne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Yellow. Promising entry of rich, round apple and pear fruit with lots of soil, but only average acidity, impact, and length.
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2020 Domaine Michel Lafarge Beaune 1er Cru Grèves
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Red. Light weight. Dull red and blue fruit drenched in soil which carries through to the dry finish. Excellent acidity. Lovely Beaune wine with aging potential.
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2020 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Dull red color. Ripe cherry and a bit of green on the nose. Medium weight. Saline. Excellent amplitude and depth of tart cherry fruit. Outstanding acidity. Tannic grip with endless soil on the finish. Approachable but this is one for the ages. Not only was this one of my favorite wines today, but it must be the most terroir-driven wine I tasted. The savory, earthy style of Lafarge worked beautifully with the incredible fruit that this vintage provided.
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2020 Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay 1er Cru Carelle Sous la Chapelle
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Dark sweet fruit, citrus, and some wood aromas-so different from Lafarge! Beautiful natural sweetness in the mouth gives way to a tannic finish with moderate length.
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2020 Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay 1er Cru Santenots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Deep ruby color. More green tones here. Lighter medium weight and more elegance. Higher pitched citrus, salinity, bitter chocolate, and drying tannins. This needs a good 6 to 8 years time.
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2020 Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Verseuil
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Purple. Medium weight. Black and red fruit, salinity, earthy and elegant with more gripping tannins at the end. Outstanding, serious, and very much for the future (2030 and beyond?).
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2020 Domaine Y. Clerget Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Deep ruby. Somber dark black fruit aromas. Medium weight, high acidity, earthy black fruit, and a dry finish. Outstanding Pommard that is not too severe but structured for aging. I'd give it 10 years.
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2020 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Clos de la Mousse
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Dull red color. Herbaceous nose. Light to medium weight. Earthy with discretely sweet red fruit and excellent acidity. Light, flowing feel, saline and elegant. A notably cooler style in the context of the year.
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2020 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Grèves Vigne de L'Enfant Jesus
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Medium ruby. Citrus and cherry. Rounder and sappier than the Clos de la Mousse. Excellent depth of subtle dark red fruit, less soil than the previous wine. Tannic finish. Another terrific year for this wine. Hold for at least 5 years.
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2020 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Le Corton
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Light ruby. Very stemmy and green. Lovely, elegant weight and feel. Dark red fruit and soil, excellent acidity, and fine tannins. Quite a delicate, refined Corton that is surprisingly accessible now but has the skeleton to age well. Another cooler wine from Bouchard in this warm vintage.
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2020 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Les Cras
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Light red. Fragrant red berry. Perfectly ripe red cherry fruit, outstanding citrus and acidity, low tannins and a bit of soil which coats the palate and lingers. Supple and very easy to drink now. A pleasure.
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2020 Louis Jadot Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Barre
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Red. Aromas of light red fruit and earth. Lighter style. Tart cherry, higher acidity. Also approachable but the tannins definitely assert themselves late.
Very nice wine for intermediate term drinking.
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2020 Nicolas Rossignol Volnay 1er Cru Santenots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Ruby. Significant brettanomyces. Medium bodied and sappy. Dark red fruit, gritty tannic texture. Harsh and out of balance.
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2020 Nicolas Rossignol Pommard Les Petits Noizons
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard
Medium red. Pure cherry nose. Medium weight, excellent red fruit, very good acidity, and full of soil. Very good but unready.
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2020 Domaine Jean-Marc / Thomas Bouley Volnay Clos de la Cave
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay
Dull red color. Herbal aromas. Light sweet fruit with orange peel, light soil, and powerful acids. Very lively.
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2020 Domaine Jean-Marc / Thomas Bouley Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Ruby. Pine needles. Light to medium weight. Tart red fruit, chocolate, enlivening acidity. I love the purity and drive. The Bouley wines have impressed all weekend.
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2020 Domaine Jean-Marc / Thomas Bouley Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Ruby. Blackberry nose. Medium weight. Sweet, round dark fruit with lower acidity than the other wines. Bitter chocolate finish. Juicy and delicious. Civilized Pommard.
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2020 Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Red color. Soil aromatics. Light to medium body. Saline red fruit, excellent acidity, moderately earthy finish. Savory expression.
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2020 Domaine de Montille Corton-Clos du Roi
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Ruby. Green aromas. Light to medium weight. Sweet, earthy red fruit, adequate acidity, gripping tannins. A true Corton. Hold for 10 to 12 years.
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2020 Domaine Tollot-Beaut Corton-Bressandes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Red. Elegant medium weight with soil base and light sap. Sweet ripe cherry, good acidity, round tannins. Not present is the wood of years past. Open but rather simple now.
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2020 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges
Light purple. Light weight. Blue fruit, soil finish. Really good village Nuits.
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2020 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Roncières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Light purple. Earth and pine. Medium weight. Spicy blueberry, chocolate, excellent acidity and soil. Tight finish that demands at least 5 to 7 years in bottle.
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2020 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Purple/ruby. Greener aromas. Elegant weight, ripe red and blue fruit, long earthy finish. Very Nuits and very fine quality here.
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2020 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Ruby. Blackberry jam. Generous feel, ripe dark fruit, some earth, roundly tannic. Excellent stuff.
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2020 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Incredibly saturated color. Somber black fruit nose. Deep blueberry fruit, moderate acidity and soil, and furry tannins. Should be outstanding but will need a ton of time.
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2020 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Less saturated than Vaucrains and slightly lighter weight. Much more soil. Citrus, cocoa, and black fruit. Tremendous tannic clout. Backward and potentially monumental. This harks back to old style Gouges so it may take 25 years for it to begin to strut its stuff!
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2020 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Explosive, ripe, bright red fruit and crushed flowers in a light to medium weight package. It had the exuberance of a barrel sample. Open, beautiful, and a joy to drink now. What a delicious village wine.
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2020 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vougeot 1er Cru
In much the same forward, open, juicy red fruit style as the Chambolle-Musigny village, but a bit more structure underneath.
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2020 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Red. Wafting red fruit aromas. Incredible depth of spicy red fruit yet it remains elegant with fine acidity and tannins that will keep it fresh for a long time. This set of Hudelot-Noëllat wines provided amazing hedonistic pleasure.
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2020 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
Light red color, light to medium weight. Completely seductive scents and flavors of red berries. Great depth of flavor despite the feather like feel. Incredible spice, persistence, and sneaky tannins to provide shape. I found it difficult to not be excited by this wine. Not a big boy at all, but it still slays.
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2020 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis
Medium weight, earthy, full of soil. Very good.
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2020 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Lovely dark red fruit with incredible depth despite its medium to light weight. Gentle earth runs through it from beginning to end, and the tannins are refined and mouth coating. Subtle and gorgeous now and for the intermediate time frame.
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2020 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Medium ruby. Elegant weight, very discrete. Soil, ripe red fruit, outstanding acidity, and fine grained tannins. Deep, lush, complex, and long. Yawn, another great vintage of this-wish I could afford it!
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2020 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Boudots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Ruby. Earthy aromas. Sweet dark fruit, outstanding acidity, drying tannins, some soil at the end. Terrific.
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2020 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Purple. Citrus and black fruit on the nose and palate. Excellent acidity and soil, tannic finish. This closely resembles the 2015 version that we tasted earlier today but seems a little more forthcoming and pliant. Should be outstanding over time.
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2020 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light ruby. Already complex aromas of soil and mixed fruit. Round yet suave with soil, deep fruit, cocoa, outstanding citric acidity, and firm but fine tannins. Needs at least 8 to 10 years and probably longer for full expression. Superb version of Clos Vougeot and much better than any of the 3 vintages shown at the Verticals a few days ago. Not flashy but still one of the finest reds tasted today.
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2020 Domaine des Lambrays Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Rich pear and wood on both the nose and palate. Round but bolstered by very good acidity. Excellent but a little too blurry to be distinguished.
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2020 Domaine des Lambrays Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos du Cailleret
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Cooler aromas than the Folatières, more citrus. Lighter, more crisp, elegant feel, excellent acidity. To me this is more typical Puligny and I preferred it to its richer sib. Could be outstanding with medium term aging.
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2020 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
Dull ruby. Earth and deep dark red fruit on the nose. Medium weight, slightly brambly but not nearly to the extent found in many vintages of this wine. More volume than usual with great, deeply embedded fruit and substantial tannins. Superb weight, feel, natural sweetness, and finish. This was mind blowingly good and qualitatively on the same level as the outstanding 2016 tasted the other day, which is to say that it should be one of the all time vintages for this property in 12+ years. Another example of a domain with a leaner, more structure winemaking style melding this perfectly with the incredible fruit of the vintage-a totally winning combination!
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2020 Domaine Bruno Clair Vosne-Romanée Les Champs Perdrix
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Purple color. Low pitched, serious aromas. Wow, first you are hit with a strong soil base, then briary black fruit, high acidity, and a tightly tannic soil inflected finish. Very impressive but it needs 15+ years. One of the few wines tasted today that I'd describe as austere at present.
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2020 Domaine Bruno Clair Bonnes Mares
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Deep ruby core. Big, round, lush, and sweet with candied blueberry fruit, citric lift, deeply imbued soil and moderate drying tannins. Serious, heavyweight wine that transitions from glorious upfront fruit and roundness to a powerfully structured, austere finish that will take 15 years to begin to resolve and have a life span of 30 or more years. Bruno Clair was not fooling around with these 2 wines! Fabulous quality.
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2020 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin En Vosne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Ruby. Fragrant soil and herbs. Light and elegant with crisp red fruit, soil, excellent acidity, and lighter tannins. Delicious now.
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2020 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut St. Jacques
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Light ruby. Again soil and herb aromas. Medium weight. Delightful sweet fruit and lively acidity with melting tannins. Outstanding, subtle, and delicious. It should have a broad window of enjoyment.
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2020 Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée de Très Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Light ruby. Pungent nose. Light oak. Ripe, lush fruit quickly transitions to a roundly tannic finish. Very good.
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2020 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Light ruby. Fragrant earth. Candied red fruit with real sap. Pleasing soil and excellent acidity. Dry finish. Needs 5 to 7 years. Excellent.
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2020 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Ruby. Ripe black cherry and soil aromas and flavors. Sweet, open, delicious. Good salinity and lightly tannic finish. Also lovely but I thought the Champeaux had more depth and potential.
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2020 Arnaud Mortet Charmes-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Great purity and sappyiness in a lighter weight format. Gentle sweetness of the fresh red fruit, a core of earth, orange peel, and low tannins. Superbly pretty, elegant Charmes that is so inviting and seductive right now. Beautiful wine.
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2014 Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Millésimé
France, Champagne
Beautifully crisp, refreshing, high acid wine. Light weight, bitter orange and excellent minerality. Much better than the 2012 I had recently.
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