Monday night Bordeaux

Hawksmoor Guildhall
Tasted Monday, March 20, 2023 by NickA with 193 views

Introduction

The Wine Society N London Group does Bordeaux and steak

Flight 1 - White Bordeaux (1 Note)

  • 2010 Château Lynch-Bages Blanc de Lynch-Bages 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux

    Really enjoyed this, in part because of its balance and complexity but also I suspect because I just don't drink this sort of wine often enough. More Sauv than Sem on the nose (apparently the cepage is 45% Sémillon, 45% Sauvignon, 10% Muscadelle), and rather lovely with it: nettles, gooseberry, herbs and some custard. Bitter and phenolic on the palate, almost like a hoppy West Coast IPA, chewy in texture, with pineapple and lime and again some custard. A definite success.

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Flight 2 - Young and approachable (1 Note)

  • 2015 Château Le Prieuré St. Émilion Grand Cru 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. This was pretty good in its style, and not too young to enjoy. Yes, it was big, dark and concentrated, with oodles of succulent fruit, but there were also some interesting notes of smoke and meat, even some florality, and a silky finish. 14.5% abv but I didn't find that too distracting - it comes with the territory.

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Flight 3 - 50 years old (1 Note)

  • 1973 Château Fonbadet 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Pale rim, somewhat brown - as you'd expect. Delicate and savoury, and reminded me of gravy. Slightly tart at first, then a bit more volatile with air. Interesting to try a glass, and nice with Yorkshire puddings, but objectively not a particularly tasty wine.

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Flight 4 - 2001s (2 Notes)

  • 2001 Château Léoville Barton 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Pretty great, and with a lot more vitality than a bottle tried on NYE 2019. Rather a glossy nose, though with plenty of leathery notes to add interest. Restrained, graphitey and saline on the palate - the epitome of classicism. With some air a slightly dank smell developed, but I don't think that was TCA, just 22yo grape juice. My and the group's WOTN.

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  • 2001 Château Rauzan-Ségla 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    An excellent foil for the '01 Barton served alongside. Riper and glossier than that wine, but really lovely, with some truffle on the nose and plenty of powdery, blackcurranty fruit on the palate. A big, rounded and delicious wine with plenty of time in hand. My #3 wine of the evening, and the group's #2.

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Flight 5 - 2005s (2 Notes)

  • 2005 Château Léoville Barton 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Very Cabernet in flavour profile, though far less stern than I had expected from Leoville Barton in the '05 vintage (my first time trying this wine). Surprisingly open and well-behaved, dark and concentrated in a polished sort of way, with some violet as well as the fruit. I expect this to become more interesting, but the '09 seems to do the same sort of thing in a more appealing fashion, and the '01 and '02 are more compelling now. Group #3 wotn, but well behind from my perspective.

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  • 2005 Château Langoa Barton 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    I'd expected this to be a more approachable sibling to the Leoville Barton '05, and indeed it was, but that wine was overly smooth and approachable and accordingly so was this one, and to a greater degree - in fact, it was slightly boring. Elegant in a 'smooth' way, bright berry fruit verging on sorbet, some (nice) oak noticeable on the finish. Became a bit less primary with air. Hmm.

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Flight 6 - Cos (2 Notes)

  • 2001 Château Cos d'Estournel 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    This was just too sweet, still primary, and if tasted blind I would've been amazed to discover it was an '01. High toned and bright, a Turkish Delight note, with too much extraction for its structure, and a slightly green note too. Some more interesting truffle notes if you looked for them, but they seemed overwhelmed by the fruit. Not a bad wine in its style, and I was happy to finish the glass, but I wonder if this bottle was completely correct.

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  • 1988 Château Cos d'Estournel 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    This bottle had held up well and was much more to my taste than the '01. Cool and refreshing, with floral and leathery notes on the nose, and beautifully medium-bodied, with a strong flavour of black cherry and nicely resolved tannins. A classy bottle of wine that I could happily have enjoyed over an evening.

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Flight 7 - The underdog? (1 Note)

  • 1997 Château Poujeaux 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc

    Something of an underdog on paper, this sharp, characterful wine really shone and I enjoyed it very much. Attractively sweet on the nose, and lots going on in the mouth: green and truffley, some cherry fruit and a juicy finish, its fruit and its spiky, tertiary qualities beautifully integrated. Kept going back for more!

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Flight 8 - Dessert (1 Note)

  • 2006 Château Coutet Barsac 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    Intense mango, with barley sugar and vanilla pod, and hints of marmalade weaving in and out. A lush wine, but still in balance. Really hit the spot.

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Closing

An interesting selection, and the hits/misses weren't necessarily as I'd expected - in particular, not sure why the 2005s were so soft and approachable. Certainly plenty of wines I'd be delighted to taste again, though.

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