Barolo and Truffle dinner

Flat 9
Tasted Sunday, November 19, 2023 by NickA with 64 views

Introduction

The first anniversary of the Flat 9 supper club, and doing a Barolo/truffle theme seemed obvious. As it turned out, the dishes were strongly Japanese influenced, which made for some successful and particularly interesting pairings.

Flight 1 - Peanut and black truffle gomadofu, Truffled Fassona sushi (3 Notes)

NV Champagne Gaspard Brochet Champagne 333.c 93 Points

France, Champagne

Very pale orange, like a ramato Pinot Grigio. Charming and harmonious despite its youth (is a blend of 17/18/19) and lack of dosage. Ripe, attractive yellow fruit, relatively concentrated and full-bodied, yet ever so drinkable. Has the stuffing to make this ageable, sure, but it's also very approachable now.

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NV Barone Pizzini Franciacorta "Animante" Brut 91 Points

Italy, Lombardia, Franciacorta DOCG

First time with this, and enjoyed it a lot. Fresh, well-balanced, insistent acidity and crisp, mineral fruit - an excellent aperitif.

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2017 Enrico Serafino Alta Langa Zero Riserva Pas Dosé 87 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Alta Langa

I didn't particularly enjoy this - overly brisk and citric, a little hollow and austere, hard to finish a glass really. Perhaps some would appreciate a wine this lean, but I didn't.

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Flight 2 - Simmered kabocha, sweet potato, chestnut broth (2 Notes)

2018 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 92 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

A gorgeous wine, in the style of the vintage, silkily medium-bodied and very fragrant: no shortage of red fruit or rose here! Nicely focused, too. A lovely first red. No need to wait on these.

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2015 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo San Lorenzo di Verduno 92 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

This was delicious; just as red-fruited as the Ratti, but of sturdier build and with more tar and some greenish and spicy Verduno character to complement the sweeter, more floral notes. Pleasingly ready despite no decant, but still a grown-up, 'proper' Barolo.

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Flight 3 - Onsen egg, wagyu beef, mushrooms, Alba white truffle (2 Notes)

2008 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Cannubi 94 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

In a really good place, with no hard corners and the wood almost entirely absorbed by the fruit, leaving only some vestigial spice (which went superbly with the food). Cool, poised and dark-toned, with vibrant acidity and that je ne sais quoi that really delicious wine often has. Everyone seemed to enjoy this a lot.

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2016 E. Molino Barolo Riserva del Fico 92 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Interesting wine: relatively full-bodied, good structure and definition, but so fruit-forward that it - a 2016 riserva! - could happily be approached already. Hedonistic without being unserious, and really fun to drink.

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Flight 4 - Truffled soba, tonkatsu, porcini (2 Notes)

2017 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cerretta 92 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Delicious wine, although no way should it cost 2-4x as much as tonight's other Barolos. Rather rich and sunny in feel, and still in very much a primary phase, although also balanced and energetic. ACYSO summed up my feelings on this well below.

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2019 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe 87 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Tonight's only disappointing red, rather thin and lacking a finish. Either shut down or suffering from (extremely mild) TCA contamination. As it was served by our knowledgeable host, I'll score it rather than marked as flawed.

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Flight 5 - Japanese style Mont Blanc tart (1 Note)

2018 Parusso Barolo Perarmando 91 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Wow - what an interesting wine! The modernist elevage has created a Barolo with tropical fruit and floral aromas and flavours, and accordingly this playfully perfumed, minty, mango-infused wine was served with dessert - and it worked beautifully. I wouldn't buy this wine, but I certainly enjoyed trying it.

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