Reasonably priced Burgundy

Must & Lees, Warren Street
Tasted Thursday, November 23, 2023 by Joshvoulters with 71 views

Introduction

An interesting brief: can a basic Bourgogne scratch the Burgundy itch for less than £25, give or take. Or: is there value still to be had in Burgundy.

Flight 1 - Santenay & Meursault (2 Notes)

Flight 2 - 2020 (2 Notes)

  • 2020 Domaine Jean Chartron Chardonnay Bourgogne Cuvée Eugénie Dupard 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

    Very ripe, unadorned fruit. Grapefruit, celery, ripe lemon. A sweaty note and honeyed sweetness. Really good on the palate: angular, mineral, super bright with sharp acidity that really sings. Not what's in my mind when I think of Burg, but interesting nonetheless.

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  • 2020 Marc Colin et Fils Bourgogne Blanc 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

    Oaky nose that really emerges with air. Stony complexity: lemon, lifted blossom that's enveloped in a subtly toasted structure with elements of funk and a reductive note. Good body and weight, brightening acidity carries a finish that's a touch abrupt. Not all that subtle but I liked it.

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Flight 3 - Puligny (2 Notes)

  • 2019 Domaine de Montille Bourgogne Blanc Le Clos du Chateau 88 Points

    France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

    Nice purity and drive. White peach, green apple, very light on the oak treatment. Slightly flat on the palate in comparison to a really lovely nose.

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  • 2018 Olivier Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc Oncle Vincent 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

    Quite sweet, talcy, balmy and rich with really good lemony fruit. Rounded and just a little smoky, quite full on the palate with a ripeness that suggests green papaya. Not as good as the '20 but definitely an OV. It's very obviously WB which - to somebody who doesn't drink much of it - is a positive. To the real connoisseurs around the table it was probably a bit overdone and obvious.

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Flight 4 - Macon (2 Notes)

Flight 5 - CdB reds (2 Notes)

  • 2020 Pierrick Bouley Bourgogne Côte d'Or 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Côte d'Or

    The tasting descriptors I have for this wine sound awful, but I really liked it... Lots of reduction at first, notes of cabbage, salt and vinegar (!). Bramble fruit with a bit of volatility on the nose. All that weirdness coalesces and finds direction with more air - dark red fruit, mace, sichuan pepper and violet emerge. Good concentration and energy on the palate, really quite compelling.

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  • 2019 Domaine Pierre Guillemot Bourgogne 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

    Depth and dimension on the nose: mint, spiced cherry, raspberry, a mature stony character and roundness to the fruit. Just a bit of funk- a lovely balance of seriousness and tenderness. Good concentration and a touch of sweetness on the palate: clean and pleasant but simpler than the nose, but with proper depth to the fruit. Really liked this.

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Flight 6 - CdN reds (2 Notes)

Flight 7 - Enfants terribles (2 Notes)

  • 2019 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Bourgogne 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

    Nothing to contradict my note from a few months ago - Extremely drinkable, quality Bourgogne: very Pataille - little natty funk, sweet red and brambly fruit and a chalky medium body. Tannins are pleasantly resolved, acidity fresh. Relatively light and tasty, not especially complex but rewarding.

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  • 2020 Jean-Marie Fourrier Bourgogne 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

    Ripe, purple-fruited and round. Hoisin, coffee- quite compact and angular. Some sweetness on the palate with good grip and pleasant oak signature. Dry but not drying with a sense of underlying richness.

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Closing

Consensus is that yes - there is value to be found in Burgundy and some very nice wines at this level. No incredible bargains and nothing life changing here, but some wines I'd be an enthusiastic buyer of at this level.

Also chapeau to Jonathan for setting a really interesting brief and then herding the cats to actually stick to it!

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