Maltby & Greek portfolio tasting

Tasted Monday, January 15, 2024 by Joshvoulters with 77 views

Introduction

Thymiopoulos still king of the hill

Flight 1 - Alpha Estate (10 Notes)

  • 2023 Alpha Estate Malagousia Xelones Vineyard 84 Points

    Greece, Macedonia, Florina

    Far too aromatic for my taste, mind went directly to ripe sweaty pissy NZ sauvignon. Tropical, oranges. On the palate it's actually quite nice: round with good acidity and mass, ripe apple and a warm citrus finish. So maybe hold your nose?

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  • 2022 Alpha Estate Malagousia Latipes Vineyard 88 Points

    Greece, Macedonia, Florina

    Fermented in French oak and Greek pine, 9 months on lees. This is pretty cool. Lychee, cinnamon, yellow pear, a fresh green sappy pine note. Ripe, herbal and peachy on the palate with sharp lemon and a very long finish. It's definitely aromatic but it's also quite tight, good acidity.

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  • 2022 Alpha Estate Chardonnay Tramonto 86 Points

    Greece, Macedonia, Florina

    New French barrique with - get this - no toast whatsoever, just steamed. 7 months on the lees. Tight, compact and lemons. It was served pretty cold which wouldn't have helped. Clean and refreshing but I didn't get much else.

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  • 2022 Alpha Estate Assyrtiko Single Vineyard Amyndeon Agia Kyriaki 86 Points

    Greece, Macedonia, Florina

    Fermented in steel, 8 months on lees. Lemon depth, chalky and slatey. Quite dense but clean palate. Acidity is more middle of the road than Santorini and there's a smoky element that adds interest. Quite refreshing. Dull.

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  • 2021 Alpha Estate Xinomavro Skantzoxoiros 90 Points

    Greece, Macedonia, Amyndaio

    Juicy and vibrant with strawberry, tomato leaf, blackberry, some oak spice and smoke. Smooth, fruity, juicy on the palate. Really zippy with nice acidity and gentle grip from the tannins. There's something almost Tuscan about it. Mouthwatering!

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  • 2017 Alpha Estate Xinomavro Skantzoxoiros 88 Points

    Greece, Macedonia, Amyndaio

    Quite developed for a 6 year old wine, leather and savoury rubber notes underlaid with dark and red juicy fruit and thyme. Clean and certainly drier than the '21 tasted side by side, a little grain to the tannins.

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  • 2020 Alpha Estate Xinomavro Réserve Vieilles Vignes Barba Yannis 88 Points

    Greece, Macedonia, Amyndaio

    100 year old vines, 2 years in oak, 2 years in bottle, indigenous yeast. Serious and deep nose: balsamic notes, dark cherry, cracked leather, sweet strawberry and complex dark depth. Concentrated red fruit palate, not really shouting Xinomavro but classy - good acidity, chew and density. Lots of acidity and wonderfully smooth tannins - lots of satisfying structure. Doesn't really have a sense of place but is generically quite good.

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  • 2018 Alpha Estate Alpha One 85 Points

    Greece, Macedonia, Florina

    Very deep and dense, quite focused and closed - feels very early in its development. Rather sweet and extracted - plummy, currants, raspberry, lots of vanilla and baking spices. Dense and opulent palate, heavier and thicker than I prefer with lots of acidity and tannin. Finishes with coffee bitterness. The very definition of 'international style'. Nope.

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  • 2021 Alpha Estate Syrah Xinomavro Merlot 88 Points

    Greece, Macedonia, Amyndaio

    So I guess this is a 'Super Amyndeon', which I'm not entirely sure the world is crying out for. But actually it's pretty good, with a deep and dense nose carrying violets, rose, beautiful floral lift. Purple fruit - concentrated by not heavy or claggy. Lovely acidity and smooth tannins, power and levity. Yes it's international in style but it's really quite expressive and enjoyable. Not sure I could pay £33 for it mind.

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  • 2013 Alpha Estate Syrah Xinomavro Merlot 88 Points

    Greece, Macedonia, Amyndaio

    Plum, coffee, caramel. Well resolved already but there's ample structure to age for a good while longer. Truffle and wet leaves emerging, with a dark fruit core. Still don't really understand what this wine, from this place, brings to the table - but it's pretty good and maybe that's enough.

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Flight 2 - Santorini (9 Notes)

  • 2021 Sigalas Assyrtiko Santorini 83 Points

    Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini

    Expressive lemon, stone, mineral on the nose but the palate is all thick, claggy apricot, very ripe and a little sweet. Broad and lacking acidity, it feels really heavy and alcoholic Yuk.

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  • 2020 Sigalas Assyrtiko Kavalieros 84 Points

    Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini

    12 months sur lie. Peachy ripeness on the nose with a smoky, satisfying green note. Thick and slightly sweet on the palate but just about manageable- the alcoholic heat is noticeable. Acidity does cut through all that fat at the end.

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  • 2021 Sigalas Mavrotragano 88 Points

    Greece, Aegean, Cyclades

    Already quite leathery and balsamic on the nose with sweet red cherry, violets. Very nice purity. Smooth and clean on the palate, a touch of sweetness to the red fruit and a meaty savoury note - Bovril? Black tea as well. A long finish and some grainy tannins.

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  • 2021 Oeno P Tria Ampelia 86 Points

    Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini

    Fennel, lemon, white peach, stony saline depth on the nose. Lots of power- this is muscular. Such weight on the palate: thick, heavy and dense. The acidity does cut through on a long finish. Impressive but couldn't imagine drinking more than a small glass. Very expensive.

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  • 2021 Oeno P Tria Ampelia Pithari 84 Points

    Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini

    A touch of restraint goes a long way with this cuvee, on the nose at least: clean with a mineral edge and smoky character on the nose. Very ripe on the palate: peach and lemon, sweet. Almost off dry? Not for me

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  • 2021 Oeno P Akulumbo 81 Points

    Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini

    On the nose it's quite Burgundian - smoky depth and a restraint, clarity to the citrus fruit. On the palate though it's sweet and ripe and the requisite acidity is MIA. Bleurgh, need a glass of water after this. I didn't know the price upon tasting and I am amused to find this is a snip at £108

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  • 2022 Santo Wines Assyrtiko Santorini 90 Points

    Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini

    Great typicity: savoury, mineral, lemony and smoky. Great depth. Lots of weight and presence on the palate but there's a real vertical character and the acidity isn't messing about. Precise, sharp and citric on the long finish.

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  • 2021 Santo Wines Nykteri 92 Points

    Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini

    Compared with the regular cuvee, this has greater depth and ripeness, a sense of woody development, more savoury notes and aromatics. Ripe lemon and nectarine, and the oak makes itself known. Classy and balanced on the palate, with great dimension and complexity. Savoury and dense but light on its feet. Super acidity that's initially masked by the flavour and body - this is really good.

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  • 2020 Santo Wines KONTARADES Single Vineyard 92 Points

    Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini

    Very good: precise, fresh but with power and heft. Expansively aromatic nose: lemon, stone, green herbs, salt. Clear lemony freshness on the palate, compact now but with loads of potential.

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Flight 3 - Naoussa (11 Notes)

  • 2021 Diamantis Winery Moschomavro Magoutes Vineyard 88 Points

    Greece, Macedonia

    Really fun and aromatic. Violets, spice, bright red cherry and redcurrant. Tart berries on the palate, juicy and direct with bright acidity. Simple but really nice - would probably work slightly chilled.

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  • 2019 Diamantis Winery Xinomavro Magoutes Vineyard 89 Points

    Greece, Macedonia

    Nicely balanced, restrained and cool in character. Oak lends a sweet spice to the nose of red cherry, strawberry, new leather and violets. Really compelling. Sharp acidity and fine tannins give structure to a palate of tart berries and a hint of sweetness. It's quite lithe and lean, should age very well indeed.

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  • 2017 Diamantis Winery Xinomavro Parcel Selection Magoutes Vineyard 88 Points

    Greece, Macedonia, Kozani, Siatista

    Surprisingly developed: leathery with some dark balsamic tones. Quite prominent oak spice, good depth and saturation. Against expectations it's quite tart, vibrant and red fruited on the palate, lean and acidity with abundant fine tannins and mouthwatering acidity. Feels very tertiary for a wine that should have lots left in the tank,

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  • 2017 Melitzani Xinomavro 91 Points

    Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa

    Mellowing and finding a mature balance- a slight barnyard note adds to the impression this is a charmingly unpolished wine. There's also sweet spice, red cherry, strawberry, leather: alive and compelling. A sense of velvety smoothness on the palate entry, there's still some grip on the back end but it feels quite resolved and integrated. Fresh acidity and chewy length. Really liked this.

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  • 1996 Melitzani Xinomavro 87 Points

    Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa

    Getting more to the 'generic old wine' phase than anything more compelling, this leads on tertiary aromas of cracked leather, porcini, a bit of red cherry. Really mushroomy on the palate with some strawberry - tart, getting a bit lean but retaining good concentration. As an exercise to show that Xinomavro develops like a noble grape should, job done. Bright acidity and there's still some grip on the tannins

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  • 2023 Vourvoukeli Estate Malagousia 86 Points

    Greece, Thrace

    Stainless steel, 3 months on the lees. Clean, botanical, gentle aromatic. Fleeting.

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  • 2022 Vourvoukeli Estate Assyrtiko 88 Points

    Greece, Thrace

    Extended lees contact. Green apple, smoky and mineral. Much smaller in scale than a Santorini but does its own thing well, even if it's a touch aromatic for my taste. Some grip and minerality on the palate, acidic cut.

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  • 2019 Vourvoukeli Estate Avdiros 86 Points

    Greece, Thrace

    Limnio and Syrah. 12 months in used oak. On the nose there's confected strawberry: compact and simple. But unexpected depth of red and dark fruit on a chewy palate. Lots of acidity and clay tannins, flavour that lingers on finish. A bit of a lopsided oddity but kind of charming.

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  • 2018 Vourvoukeli Estate Limnio 83 Points

    Greece, Thrace

    The new American oak really dominates proceedings- an unusual choice for a grape that doesn't seem to have the assertiveness to stand up to it. Coconut macaroons, cinnamon biscuit, herbal and floral with raspberry fruit. The palate has some red fruit but it's strangely watery and dilute.

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  • 2018 Vourvoukeli Estate Mavroudi 88 Points

    Greece, Thrace

    French oak. Sweetly saturated and quite mushroomy, tobacco notes, mature.Saturated raspberry, angular and driven. Nicely balanced on the palate albeit with more sweet vanilla spice than is strictly advisable. Good concentration, friendly and toothsome.

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  • 2019 Diamantis Winery Vieilles Vignes Blanc Magoutes Vineyard 83 Points

    Greece, Macedonia

    Raspberry, lemon sherbet on the nose - sharply assertive and quite artificial. Lots of body and depth but feels tight and extracted - there's a chewy presence and fizzy red fruit. Not a particularly pleasant experience

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Flight 4 - Kefalonia (4 Notes)

  • 2022 Orealios Gaea Truth Robola of Cephalonia 88 Points

    Greece, Ionian, Kefalonia, Robola of Cephalonia

    Distinctive. Grown on sites between 400 and 800 metres, organically farmed. Floral notes and green apple, liquorice. Good depth and chalky body on the palate, sweetly concentrated. Decent length to the finish too. Offers something different and enjoyable at less than £20 on the table

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  • 2022 Orealios Gaea San Gerasimo Robola of Cephalonia 89 Points

    Greece, Ionian, Kefalonia, Robola of Cephalonia

    Lemon curd, a talcy perfumed character offsetting bright and fresh green apple. Clear, flowing and very drinkable - a touch of grip with ripe green fruit, high acidity and great tension. Distinctive and great value at £18

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  • 2021 Orealios Gaea San Gerasimo Robola of Cephalonia 89 Points

    Greece, Ionian, Kefalonia, Robola of Cephalonia

    Tasted alongside the '22 and '20 - this gains a leesy depth compared with the former, more structured and profound. Sharp acidity with a chalky dense body. Good concentration of yellow stone fruit but it's fresh, bright, lively. Very good.

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  • 2020 Orealios Gaea San Gerasimo Robola of Cephalonia 90 Points

    Greece, Ionian, Kefalonia, Robola of Cephalonia

    A bit of age really works with this cuvee (which is pretty excellent young anyway). Superb fruit weight on the palate with a sense of flowing, clean concentration. Some white pepper and mineral notes with ripe sweet lemon. Refreshing and moreish - would work as something to glug or something to contemplate.

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Flight 5 - Crete (2 Notes)

Flight 6 - Nemea (1 Note)

  • 2018 Elias Bizios Nemea 83 Points

    Greece, Peloponnisos, Nemea

    Mushroom and forest floor, autumnal tones but otherwise dry and sharp with just a hint of black cherry. The structure outweighs the fruit already and I can only seeing this getting more challenging with time.

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