Mugneret-Gibourg (Clos Vougeot and Lutenières)

Ever since I tasted a bottle of Ruchottes-Chambertin 2012 from this domaine, Mugneret-Gibourg has been my favourite producer of wine. The delicacy of their wines is just so appealing, and combined with remarkable complexity and delineation it´s easy to see why their popularity has (deservedly) sky-rocketed.

So, this tasting is one I´ve been looking forward to for years at this point, and boy, did it deliver.
Of course, the wines are on the young side, so for me, this tasting was a way to get a read on how the wines are ageing and to make informed decisions on further cellaring for my remaining bottles.

General takeaways:
1) Clos Vougeot is one of Burgundy´s great wines. The earthy reputation of this vineyard is well founded, all 3 vintages were infused with lovely warm soil. Also, it was really fascinating to see how well it absorbed its oak (around 70% new), the raw material is so abundant that this level of oak is only a small supplement in the final impression. By contrast, the Lutenières receives south of 30%(?) new oak, which across the board was far more evident than in the Clos Vougeot.

2) Their Bourgogne Rouge (Lutenières) has got to be one of, if not the best in all of Burgundy. The concentration is absolutely extraordinary given its classification, drinking much more like a high level 1er cru. Also, it´s very much ageworthy, based on this tasting, it feels like extended cellaring could prove beneficial.

3) The 2020 vintage in Burgundy demands serious cellar time. For me, the question is not necessarily "how is it drinking now?", but rather "where is it going?". I was asking myself that first question during this tasting and got slightly worried that I went too deep into this vintage. However, after experiencing how both bottles of 20 appeared 2 days after opening, my worries completely vanished. This vintage may require more cellaring than any other recent vintage, but (at least for Mugneret-Gibourg), I have no doubt that the end result will speak clearly of Burgundy.

• 2021 Weingut Keller Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Kabinett 92 Points

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  Slow-oxed 2 hours before dinner
  
  An elegant first impression, certainly a fresh Kabinett, showing primarily citrus, white orchard fruits, before (with air and temp) the fruit turned sweeter, broadening the profile somewhat.
  
  Nicely integrated palate, the sweetness is more of an addition than the dominating force. Perhaps the finish could be slightly longer, but clearly high quality stuff.

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• 2015 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot 99 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

  Opened 3h prior to dinner, quick double decanting 2 h before serving
  
  The nose here is just mind bendingly complex, and still, the one word that comes to mind is "delicate". The harmony of this wine transcends physical reality and transports me to alternative dimensions, not adhering to our usual wordly surroundings, but rather emphasizing esthetic resonance and higher truths.
  
  Suffice it to say, I liked it. A lot.
  
  The nose featured an intense earthiness with a wonderful warm soil aroma, fresh mushrooms, saffron, musk, white pepper and rubber. The fruit had perfectly mature high notes of redcurrant, strawberry and blood orange. It embodied the whole specter of aromas, more so than any Burgundy wine I´ve ever had.
  
  The palate was more fruit driven than the nose with red cherry, raspberry, lemon rind. Enormous length with red cherry skins.

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• 2018 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Bourgogne 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Double decanted 3h prior to serving
  
  Very different profile than the Vougeot 15 next to it, marked by the 18 vintage, sure, but with time, I really came to love its direct nature. High pitched red berries with resin/raspberry bush and certainly some oak infused notes.
  
  Quite structured palate, dense and impactful, though the quality of fruit is really something and always hinting at that MG red berry signature.
  
  I liked this even better than a bottle some 16 months ago, so I have high hopes for this vintage chez Mugneret-Gibourg with more cellar time.

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• 2019 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot 97 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

  The nose is so fresh with that 19 vintage signature of high acidity coupled with premium raspberry, wild strawberry. It also featured grapefruit, dates, rose stems, a slight green note, though only as a subtle element adding to the complexity.
  Despite its fresh and open impression, I felt that the wines core is safely guarded, it clearly needs time.
  
  The palate is, as the 15, so elegant, no obtrusive tannins, and a finish that kept on growing, seemingly for ever. Strawberry all the way here, light peppery touch and rose petals.
  
  For now, it´s hinting at greatness that is some years down the road, should be absolutely riveting in due time.
  
  97 for now

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• 2019 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Bourgogne 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Double decanted 3 h prior to serving
  
  Almost candied strawberry, rhubarb, cloudberry, cut hay on the nose.
  
  So sweet and caressing palate, huge intensity growing through the curve.
  
  Next to the Clos Vougeot 2019, it showed many similarities, perhaps a slightly less obvious nose and a bit more structured and direct palate, not as weightless as Vougeot (then again, what is?).

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• 2020 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot 97 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

  Absolutely spectacular nose upon opening.
  
  This changed through the night, after a little while going more towards that 20 vintage primary phase signature, which for me is blackberry, blackcurrant, plums, licorice and burnt sugar.
  
  However, at the very end of the night, this became ever brighter in profile, now going towards raspberry, fresh strawberry, citrus fruits on top of dried heather, baking powder, hawthorn and cedar.
  
  The palate was, from the beginning, red fruited with a dry mouthfeel with cigar box, dried bushes, cedar and a slight bell pepper finish.
  
  At first, this made me a bit sceptic regarding this vintage from Mugneret-Gibourg, it seems like 2020 is so dense and slightly out of character. However, after TWO DAYS, it finally hit its stride! Now, it is unbelievable beautiful, so unfathomable smooth textures, quite reminiscent of Vougeot 2019 and very true to the style I´ve come to expect from Mugneret-Gibourg. This clearly will need SO much time, but that level obtained after 2 days of air, for me, is as good, or maybe even better, than the 2019.

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• 2020 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Bourgogne Les Lutenières 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Double decanted 3 hours before dinner
  
  The nose had blueberries, slightly balsamic strawberry and some oak infused spiciness.
  
  The palate is just fantastic, so incredible concentration, playful structure with juicy strawberry on top.
  
  As with the Vougeot 2020, this became even better after 24-48 hours, should become even more fun with more bottle age.

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Any bottle from Mugneret-Gibourg is a gift to the world, I would not dare rate any of these wines lower than 93, truly remarkable stuff which I feel very lucky to have experienced.