My First Visit To Burgundy: Clavelier, Dujac, Bachelet

Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France
Tasted Friday, October 9, 2009 by Badfish with 1,035 views

Introduction

These are tasting notes and other comments from my first visit to Burgundy. This was a very short visit of only a couple days but I was lucky enough to get appointments with three spectacular domaines, namely: Domaine Bruno Clavelier, Domaine Dujac, and Domaine Denis Bachelet. I happened to be there shortly after harvest and was extremely pleased to get responses from these domains. Several others I contacted were not able to accommodate visits but of course that is understandable as it was probably the busiest time of the year. I expected these to be thrilling visits and they actually exceeded my expectations. At each domaine my party was graciously invited into the cellar by the owner to taste several wines and to discuss their philosophy. My French is non-existent so I am supremely gracious to these individuals for taking the time to communicate in English. I am definitely going to get a grasp for French before my next visit. These notes were taken down in the cellars while holding a glass in one hand, pen and paper in the other, and discussing the wines at the same time. Please take the notes and scores as casual observations.

Flight 1 - Domaine Bruno Clavelier (9 Notes)

This was the first domaine we visited and it could not have been a more interesting experience. Bruno Clavelier greeted us at the cellar door and after a quick tour of the facilities we found the tasting room in the back of the cellar and dove into some bottles. We progressed through a handful of wines and were then joined by four other visitors from England and France. They were apparently long time customers of the domaine and were exceedingly charming, especially in helping to translate some harder concepts. As we went through the flight of wines I found the topic that Bruno was most enthusiastic to discuss was his vineyards. The types of soils, the fossils, the rocks, the situation of the vines, how the weather characteristics affected the vineyards through the year, and other such topics. I found it very inspirational that the vineyards are truly his passion and that he feels winemaking should be very transparent to give the best expression of those vineyards. A few interesting tidbits gleaned while discussing recent vintages: 2007 had 127 days between flowering and harvest while 2003 had 85, and they are now harvesting on average one month earlier than in the old days. Bruno has a very broad portfolio and that combined with his winemaking style really demonstrates the impact that terroir has on wine.

Flight 2 - Domaine Dujac (5 Notes)

We were greeted in the courtyard by Carole who showed us to the living room of the domaine where we were joined shortly thereafter by Alec Seysses. This visit was the most in depth in terms of discussing the actual work they do in the vineyards and in the cellars. The reason being Alec spoke perfect English and it was very easy to convey the concepts. We began by visiting a row of vines right next to the domaine where we discussed their methods of training, pruning, sorting and selection in the vineyards, etc. We then moved onto the cuverie where we saw the different types of vats used and discussed the general winemaking philosophy. I came away with the impression that the winemaking is very hands off with gentle techniques aimed at preserving the purity and elegance of the fruit. One thing pointed out was the tendency for Dujac wines to be somewhat pale in color. Alec stated they have no problem sacrificing some color if it means they can use less extraction and get more purity, delicacy, and transparency out of the wines. I find this philosophy very refreshing. We then headed down to the cellars to taste some wine amid what looked like quite a bit of activity. As we were tasting the wines we discussed various topics that seemed important such as premox, biodynamics, and pricing, but by the time we got to the Clos de la Roche and the '76 Combottes all that stuff seemed insignificant. These wines truly convey the emotion of the land.

  • 2007 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis Blanc 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis

    Once again started off with a white, this is extremely good for a village wine. Really exotic on the nose with coconut, crushed stones, and great nuttiness. The palate is very zingy and steely with towering acidity to brace the attractive fruit and density. This has a great contrast of exoticism and minerality, which makes for a really unique white. 20-25% new oak and should drink well for 5-6 years.

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  • 2007 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis

    Quite rustic but still gorgeous on the nose with licorice, black cherry, and earth. The palate shows sweet raspberry fruit with good acidity and tannin structure. This seems a bit rough and primary but should improve with time because all of the components are there. 40-50% new oak.

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  • 2007 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    This has a very delicate and complex nose with notes of raspberry, cherry, and spices. The flavors are sweet with a supple full mouthfeel and solid supporting structure. Succulent berries come through on the long gorgeous finish. Impressively elegant for a Gevrey and I find this really showcases the Dujac philosophy. 70-80% new oak.

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  • 2007 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    Exceptionally rich aromas of berries, wild cherries, flowers, blossoms, this just soars with complexity and power. The tremendous power carries over to the palate which is supple with layers of fruit. This is actually drinking quite beautifully with great balance and a long finish. Just a tremendous wine with power, complexity, and balance while remaining markedly elegant. 100% new oak.

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  • 1976 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Alec brought this bottle down at the end and said they opened it that morning so it might be a little tired. We initially tried this blind and were asked how old we thought it might be; I think I guessed at least twenty years old, which wasn’t much of a guess because the bottle was covered in dirt and mold. Turned out to be a '76 which was a drought year. You can certainly tell this is an old wine; the nose is explosively earthy with tons of complex aromas such as mushrooms, underbrush, subtle berries, and forest floor. The palate is remarkably fresh with gobs of mineral, earth, cherry, and herb flavors. Amazingly complex with effortless texture from the resolved tannins. Although this is slightly past its prime with the fruit kicking the background, the marvelous texture and complexity provide for a great experience. While not incredibly profound, tasting something like this is all the proof you need that aging wine is a worthwhile endeavor.

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Flight 3 - Domaine Denis Bachelet (5 Notes)

Denis Bachelet greeted us at the cellar door and after some general talk about our visit we got down to business. He gave us a quick overview of his facilities and we then ventured down into the dark cellar, past stacks of bottles lying in wait, to the 2008s in barrel. As we tasted through his modest array of wines it became very apparent that there is something special going on here. For instance, it is hard to expect the level of profundity exhibited by his Côte de Nuits Villages, but it truly delivers. Then his top wine is just out of this world, I don’t know how good the 2008 vintage is in general, but I doubt you will find a better Charmes. There are two pretty obvious reasons why these wines are so great: the winemaking is wonderfully transparent and the vines are very old. Denis comes across as very humble when discussing his wines, shrugging off any suggestion of how profound they might be. He is also an interesting guy to talk to as we discussed everything from the economy to California Zinfandel. Humble winemaking, modest parcels, amazing wines.

  • 2008 Domaine Denis Bachelet Bourgogne

    France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

    We started off with the Bourgogne which I believe Denis stated had just started malo in the middle of August. Very primary and fruity on the nose showing ripe cherry aroma. The CO2 is very apparent on the palate with noticeable fizz lifting the sweet fruit flavors. Seems to have plenty of fruit and structure but impossible to get a firm read on the wine at this stage. Tasted from cask. NR

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  • 2008 Domaine Denis Bachelet Côte de Nuits Villages 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages

    From vines approaching 55 years of age near the village of Brochon. There are wonderful aromas of black cherry and raspberry combining with surprising minerality for this appellation. Tremendous freshness and structure on the palate with flavorful berry notes and raw density. This is serious quality and will surprise at all stages of development I believe. Tasted from cask. (89-91)

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  • 2008 Domaine Denis Bachelet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

    From 75 year old vines. Stunning and provocative on the nose with sweet aromas of blackberry, wild cherry, and earth. The dark sweet fruit carries over to the palate which shows tremendous concentration, structure, and length. Obviously very primary but still shows plenty of Gevrey character even at such a young age. Even at this stage in cask I did not find these wines have a lot of oak or reduction, simply amazing delicacy for something that is suppose to be brutally young. Tasted from cask. (90-92)

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  • 2008 Domaine Denis Bachelet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Corbeaux Vieilles Vignes 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    From vines planted in the 1920s. This is a classic juicy Gevrey with dark meaty aromas of berries, licorice, minerals, and oodles of other complicating notes. The complexity shows on the palate as well, which is powerful and structured with firm sweet tannins and long long flavors. Because of the structure and complexity already apparent I believe this will be extremely long-lived and profound. As we were tasting this wine Denis said his 2008s show a similar style to his 1996s. In any case I found them extremely good with several notches of potential profoundness in reserve. Tasted from cask. (92-94)

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  • 2008 Domaine Denis Bachelet Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

    From 100+ year old vines. Wow just pure power and complexity, what more can you say. Gushing minerals, dark berries, licorice, plum, black cherry, spices, this goes on and on every time you smell the glass. A myriad of layers of flavors from fresh crushed berries to plum to cherry, so full and fresh. Round mouthfeel with plenty of underlying structure. Superb complexity and power while avoiding any rustic tendencies thanks to the wonderful restraint and transparency. This is very special and probably the best wine tasted during my visit to Burgundy, even in such a primordial state. Tasted from cask. (94-96)

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Closing

Although this was a short visit to Burgundy it was simply an amazing experience: the wines, the people, the hospitality, the vines, the dirt, the cellars. I could go on and on, there is just so much to love about this place. I have already started planning my next visit.

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