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2010 Soliste Cellars Chardonnay L'Age D'Or

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Winery notes: The wine reveals elegant aromas of baked apple and pears, vanilla, and grapefruit mingled with toasted grains and seashells. The soft and smooth aromas are followed seamlessly from the nose by a complex infusion of apple tarte tatin, quince, and lemon curd, subtly silken texture with hint of black tea leaves, sea brine, and chalk. The middle palate carries on with an impressive density, salted buttery caramel intertwined with tart citrus zest and exotic spices. The finish is all about width and acid minerality, spiked with spicy kafir lime peel, stone fruit pit, and bitter almonds. Class and elegance

2010 L’Age D’Or Russian River Valley Chardonnay Claude has long refused to acknowledge that California makes Chardonnay and never considered an attempt to produce it. He has said, “They are not wines, they are replacements for cocktails. They are like buttery popcorn soaked in oak trees.” When Don suggested they make Chardonnay, Claude intoned, “Over my dead body.” He felt that if they could not make it lean and elegant with great acidity and balance, they should not even try. He told Don, “Come and try this Montrachet with me and let the urge pass.” Don’s continued pestering eventually led to Claude’s agreement to make Chardonnay with him in the Soliste style.
The partners planned a three-year commitment using the Rued selection of Chardonnay from the established Lynmar Quail Ridge Vineyard in the Russian River Valley, and undertook trials with various vinification techniques including the use of imported Nomblot concrete eggs from Burgundy and 600L thick-stave oak barrels from Taransaud. It was an expensive experiment to say the least. The wine aged in concrete was called Les Cailles and it was hoped that it would have more minerality. The other wine was aged in French oak for 16 months and called L’Age D’Or. Today, Les Cailles is closed in and stays in the cellars until it is ready, but there is no guarantee it will ever reach that point or be released. Claude is not a fan of concrete eggs.
Claude has a vision for each of his wines using what he considers the French pinnacle of that varietal as a comparison. For Chardonnay the benchmarks are Domaine Francois Raveneau Les Clos Grand Cru Chablis and Francois & Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Blagny. The Soliste wine has the minerality, elegance and acidity of those white Burgundies, yet the apple tarte tatin, lemon curd and quince flavors that reveal its Russian River Valley DNA. 340 cases were released on allocation ($50).

Last edited on 1/8/2017 by TashNYC

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