The labels of Clos de la Roilette now say Fleurie, but its taste says Moulin-à-Vent. The wine shows the manganese-clay terroir characteristic of its prestigious neighbor, which was its original appellation.

In the 1920s, the borders of the Beaujolais crus were changed to create the appellation of Fleurie. Clos de la Roilette, which was classified as a Moulin-à-Vent, became part of the new appellation. The owner of the estate — relegated to the wrong side of the border — was incensed. He created a new label for Clos de la Roilette, a label that refused to identify the wine as part of any cru appellation. And front and center of the label, in an act of Gallic fancy, he displayed an image of his favorite racehorse.

In 1967, Clos de la Roilette was sold to the Coudert family. In the 1980s, Alain Coudert received the reins of the vineyard from his father. But while the owners and the vignerons of the estate have changed, the label — and its racehorse — has remained.

The terroir of the estate hasn’t changed, either. A taste of Clos de la Roilette tells you its isn’t like any other Fleurie. From vintage to vintage, this is an elegant and powerful wine, with dark, brambly fruit. It’s gently spicy, with a velvety texture, and a sturdy but fine-boned structure. And this 2019 vintage is even better than most. The Wine Advocate says 94 points, and that it’s “showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of rose petals, red cherries, raspberries, spices and orange rind.”

https://waterfordwine.com/product/2019-clos-de-la-roilette-fleurie/

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