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Bordeaux v Burgundy event

The Square Restaurant - London

Tasted July 17, 2011 by pjaines with 965 views

Introduction

The annual CellarTracker event where the best of Bordeaux go up against the best of Burgundy. This year The Bordeaux folks went for more mature wines which seemed a better match against the Burgundy wines. A truly exceptional evening where Yquem and Le Montrachet came bottom of my list, giving an idea of the quality of the wine we all drank.

Flight 1 - Champagne (1 note)

White - Sparkling
1995 Dom Pérignon Champagne Oenothèque France, Champagne
Drank over two different bottles which showed a touch of variation. The first bottle was much more restrained with more crisp fruit but the 2nd bottle was deeper with very rich brioche notes, hazelnuts and funky yeasty notes. The bubbles are being replaced by a more nuanced and still wine - excellent if you like your champers on the richer side (which I do)

Flight 2 - The white wines (4 notes)

White
1978 Château Laville Haut-Brion Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Holy moly - this is a serious wine that needs to left alone in the glass for 20 minutes to let the aromatics come out and tickle the nostrils. So so so so restrained yet complex in an understated way. Lemon oil, grassy notes and some sweet honeyed notes that build up into a whisper of quality. Grrrrrrrr.
White
2000 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Like sticking your head in a box of matches that have all been struck at the same time. Big, deep, flinty nose and palate - it is actually hard to get past this to be honest. I would struggle to drink more than a glass of this but on its own merits this has incredible depth. On the palate this is more forgiving with a more nuanced palate. I loved the glass I had but I would love the whole bottle? I prefer a touch more freshness in my whites but I can admire the quality on show here.
White
1988 Louis Latour Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Deep gold colour - a very shy nose that expanded over 30 minutes but fell somewhat short of my heightened (and rather excited) expectation. Very pure palate that was very nuanced. I think this suffered from being compared against the rather flashy Leflaive Batard-Montrachet. Very nice stuff, but I was left wanting a touch more. A sign of age? Who knows.
White
2001 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
This was like taking a rubber band to a nuclear bomb fight - it was up against Montrachet,78 Laville Haut Brion and Leflaive Batard Montrachet. Nevertheless it came out with at least its modesty in-tact. Very young but over 30 minutes this started to show up some interest notes of sauvignon blanc notes with the richness of the semillion. Lemons, peach and white flowers. This is just far too young and to be honest needs to be enjoyed over 1-2 hours in a big ass glass that lets the flavours come out. I think this will be very nice, but needs time and a big glass to let the wine reveal its complexity. Needs time to open up.

Flight 3 - Red flight#1 (4 notes)

Red
1990 Château Gruaud Larose France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
If you had to explain what mature Bordeaux was to an alien then you would use your cosmic laser gun to shrink-wrap this and teleport it to far off planets and show them this wine. Not a wine to shout and scream from the rooftops but it oooooozes mature Bordeaux from every single pore. This may not win any awards or get Parker all excited, but it is in a place right now that should be much more appreciated. Excellent.
Red
1982 Château Palmer France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Oh man oh man how sexy is this wine. Apparently this wine had done a world tour on various container ships and still it arrives dressed in silk and as fresh and elegant as Audrey Hepburn. Incredible note - earthy, soy sauce, sweet fruit, refined elegant, precise, wonderful. On the palate this is ethereal - maturity in excelsis. The only downside was the finish was a touch short, but this is really a minor criticism. Why buy 1st growths when you can get stuff like this for a fraction of the price. Truly brilliant.
Red
1995 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
The ultimate definition of a wine that changes in the glass. Tasted alongside the 88 and at first this was crisp, firm and shy but over 2 hours revealed a great balance of structure and mulchy forest floor. Cloudy appearance and reeks of farmyard. Sweet, stinky, mature and with acidity that keeps everything in check.
Red
1988 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
I'm quite new to this whole Burgundy lark but despite the high prices and hit-or-miss character of the wine when you taste wines like this you can forgive all the short comings. Funky, mulchy, dirty, wonderful fruit that tastes of the terroir. Not for those who like crisp, 4-square wines. Me like.

Flight 4 - Red flight #2 (3 notes)

Red
2000 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
A great Burg that suffered from the competition on the night - firm fruit that is starting to show maturity but needs more time. Crisp cherry notes with secondary characteristics starting to show through. On its own, a great wine. Against Richbourgs probably not a fair comparison.
Red
1982 Château Léoville Barton France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
This really cannot be almost 30 years old. Deep colour with a primary nose of black fruit and leafy cabernet notes. Quite crunchy on the palate - still so young and with depth and an earthy nature that points to years ahead of it. Barton all the way - these wines need a long time - I would almost say that this needs more time. Incredible.
Red
1982 Château Léoville Poyferré France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Slightly corked (...queue a rather animated debate at the table) but despite its short comings you still have to consider the following - it was as black as death and those nose was still young. The fruit still shone through and showed incredible depth and complexity. Almost 30 years old. Seriously? This is still young. Good stuff despite the corked element, without it this would have been astonishing. 2 lessons. #1. Dont buy first growths. #2 - age your bordeaux.

Flight 5 - Red (4 notes)

Red
1998 Domaine Anne Gros Richebourg France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
The only thing that stopped this wine being truly memorable was because of the Grivot Richebourg tasted alongside it. Pure fruit, amazingly clear appearance with tightly wound up earthy notes. Jeez - needs another 10 years.
Red
1989 Domaine Jean Grivot Richebourg France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Oh man, how wonderful is this stuff. Crystal clear with an incredible nose of laser-like precision of mushrooms and sous-bois. Fine fine fruit on the palate that is very precise and linear - nothing sticks out of place, this is just a wonderfully reserved and elegant Burgundy without any funkyness - just brilliant wine that whispers quality. Truly brilliant.
Red
1982 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Oh so young. Seriously. Iron filings, cherries, earth and deep, dark fruit that has such amazing structure - it is still tightly wound up but reeks of Bordeaux. Long, rich finish that tastes like a wine 20 years younger.
Red
1982 Château Lynch-Bages France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Tasted alongside other 1982s this was young and firm - classic Lynch Bages notes of beef stock but with brooding depth and cedar notes. Deep colour and lingering finish. Monumental.

Flight 6 - Sweet whites (1 note)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1994 Château d'Yquem France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Is there such a thing as a poor Yquem? Maybe. I found this rather disappointing, with a short and burnt finish. All the usual Sauternes notes but without getting anywhere the complexity of the 2003 La Tour Blanche I had recently (at 10% of the price to boot). Bah!

Closing

Wine of the night was the amazing Grivot Richebourg followed by the Palmer 1982.

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