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Sushi Dinner with 2000 and 2002 Premier and Grand Cru Chablis
Tasted October 9, 2011 by drwine2001 with 784 views
Flight 1 - 2000 (4 notes)
White
2000 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest
Odd, cheese rind aroma. Good weight, underlying structure and salinity, but dulled fruit. It eventually became clear that this strange showing was due to incipient oxidation, although for this bottle, the color certainly did not provide a clue to this. Disappointing since there was clearly a lot of wine left underneath. I've gone through a case of this wine, and this is the first one to show any oxidation.
White
2000 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
Floral and lactic on the nose. Delicate, pristine and long. It adds orange blossom and the fruit becomes sweeter as it opens. One of the most elegant wines of the night. Just gorgeous.
White
2000 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
Oh my, here is the sea breeze Chablis scent in all of its glory. The salinity carries through to the palate, where it is long and uncompromisingly dry with subtle herbs that complement orange zest. Spectacular extract, grip and expansiveness in the mouth. Every time I went back to this, it just got better and better, showing more facets. The perfect ripeness of the fruit only became apparent during the last few sips. Fabulous, monumental white wine which completely stole the show tonight. It should go on for another decade.
White
2000 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
Some sulfur on first whiff. Dry, rich and excellent intensity if not quite as much personality as some of the other wines. The fruit in this one also perks up and gains sweetness with air. Outstanding even having been placed after the Raveneau Valmur in the line up-quite an accomplishment! The Fevre wines from 2000 have always been much more reliable for me than the 2002s, which were fatter and had depressing rates of oxidation.
Flight 2 - 2002 (5 notes)
White
2002 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Séchet
Significant dose of sulfur which renders it slightly bitter on the end. Lean and one of the least texturally pleasing wines tonight, but it does become richer and more pleasing as it opens. Not the best example of this based on one previous experience but still quite good.
White
2002 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons
Purer nose than the Sechet. Richer too-this is a more typical '02 Chablis. Nevertheless, excellent salinity and acidity, delicious fruit and tremendous texture. Of the 3 Dauvissat Premier Crus we tasted, this was by far the best balanced.
White
2002 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux
Intense lemon and all manner of citrus on the nose. Very high toned and the most astoundingly perfumed wine of the series. Great back end intensity and structure. Unlike the Dauvissat Vaillons, I would not have guessed 2002 if tasted blind. Gorgeous and the one Premier Cru that gave the Grand Crus a run for their money. Much tighter and precise than the only other time I had this 2 years ago.
White
2002 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
Serious in all respects. Salty, dense, fabulous persistent finish. Seems like a block of stone, just the most massive of all of these wines. Incredibly youthful and classic. Like the 2000 Raveneau Valmur, this too will develop for ages. No slouch, it was not out of its league next to the other big boys' wines.
White
2002 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
Wow, beautifully complex, fragrant nose with herbaceousness that is a perfect foil to the fruit. The most readily apparent natural sweetness of the entire set of wines. Much more open, forward and lacy in texture than the Preuses and much more fruit infused as well. Long, complex and altogether delicious. Both Billaud-Simon Grand Crus acquitted themselves exceptionally well in the midst of some pretty impressive company. I have previously thought that they are real sleepers in this vintage, and that was amply borne out at this tasting.
Flight 3 - To Finish (2 notes)
Red
2009 Château de Raousset Fleurie
Magnum. Crackling, tart cherry fruit. Really good intensity and length. Some spice. No undue heaviness. Drinking very well.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1996 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Moelleux
What can I say? Poised, mature, pure off dry Chenin that is drinking like a charm right now. Great way to finish the evening.
Closing
With all of the angst surrounding white Burgundy from these 2 vintages, we were ecstatic that 8 of 9 bottles were not only in great shape but also stunningly good. The overall level was as high as I can recall for any recent tastings that involved this number of wines. Apart from individual bottles that were great, what was particularly heartening was the sense that the 2002s as a group displayed more verve and staying power than I feared they would. All in all, a wonderful evening with great friends with whom to share and taste the wines.