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Grower Champagnes with the Growers

Hi-Times, Costa Mesa, CA

Tasted October 15, 2011 by WetRock with 530 views

Introduction

Some of the growers themselves dropped in to Hi-Times to pour their wines and chat with us about them which is always a treat for me. Family members from Goutorbe, Billiot and Margaine were on hand as was a representative from Geoffroy. Talking to Laetitia Billiot while she pours her name sake cuvee was a big treat. Etienne Goutorbe is a lot of fun also and invited us to come to their new hotel on the estate. A strong lineup up and down. The two 02's were my fav though I have some previous experience with them. I also really liked both of the Billiot wines.

Flight 1 (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Cuis France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Very expressive nose with a strong note of sweet bread. A touch of sweetness and a nice mineral character on a fairly lengthy palate. Grippy acids. Very nice in a restrained style.
White - Sparkling
2002 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Special Club Millesimé de Collection France, Champagne
Pretty and subtle nose. Very clean and on the tight side still. Lots of mineral character and wound up fruit. Excellent and in need of some cellar time.

Flight 2 (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. A. Margaine Champagne Brut Cuvée Traditionelle France, Champagne
The nose was more reminiscent of a Blanc de Blancs. The character was flat and uninspired which seemed to leave the finish strongly tart.
White - Sparkling
2000 A. Margaine Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Millésimé France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
There is a reductive note on the nose mixed in with a strong sourdough bread aroma. Rich palate being somewhat round.

Flight 3 (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Geoffroy Champagne Premier Cru Expression Brut France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
5g/L dosage. Odd nose showing not only a ripe fruit character but also a seemingly unripe celery note. Weighty and concentrated with a strong green apple sense. Missing enough acidity to balance the fruit.
White - Sparkling
2004 Geoffroy Champagne Premier Cru Volupté France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
3g/L dosage. The winemaker said this is actually a blanc de blancs. Toasty nose. Fresh tart stone fruit palate with nectarines dominating. Well balanced and refreshing. Very nice and a huge step up from the NV bottle.

Flight 4 (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Henri Goutorbe Champagne Cuvée Prestige France, Champagne
Disgorged in Aug 2009. Tight nose with hints of mushroomy reduction. Light, airy and elegant. Palate cleansing citrus on the finish. Very nice.
White - Sparkling
2002 Henri Goutorbe Champagne Grand Cru Special Club France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
75%/25% - Pinot/Chard. Ripe, powerful red fruits are the main expression. Powerful yet very clean on the finish. A fine example of a grower achieving great heights in a good vintage. A terrific wine.

Flight 5 (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. H. Billiot Fils Champagne Grand Cru Brut Réserve France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
From three vintages 50/25/25 - 08/07/06. 75/25 - Pinot/Chard 100% Granc Cru fruit from the first press. Ripe fruited nose. Fresh palate of stone fruits and apples. Still love this stuff.
White - Sparkling
N.V. H. Billiot Fils Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Laetitia Brut France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
A blend of 19 vintages though not in a solera. Much more reserved and elegant than the regular reserve. Clean, fresh nectarines. Very pretty though it might have been that much better because I was talking to Laetitia herself while drinking it.
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