Some mixed 2005 and 2009 Bojos
Tasted February 14, 2013 by octopussy with 491 views
Introduction
This was a tasting of some Beaujolais Cru that my friend O. wanted to have a look into. We tasted them open in four flights of three wines each, starting with 2005 Moulin-à-Vent, going on to a mini-vertical of 2007-2009 Clos de MEZ Fleurie La Dot, continuing with three different 2009 Morgons from the Passot family and finishing with three 2009 Brouillys and Côte de Brouillys.
Flight 1 - Moulin-à-Vent 2005 (3 notes)
This flight showed that a lot of 2005 Moulin-à-Vents will need some more cellar time. None of the wines really seemed ready to go, all were fairly restrained. There's lots of potential though. The question is how long one needs to wait?
Red
2005 Gerard Charvet Moulin-à-Vent La Reserve d'Amelie Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent
Very dark colour. The nose is very restrained, pretty much shut down, doesn't reveal much. There's some blackberry though, some sweet cherry and red chili. On the palate, this is very juicy, muscular, wiry, but with hints of generosity. It follows up with silkiness, fine tannin and notes of red currant that pull the wine into the finish. Not easy to drink in that stage, but with lots of potential.
Red
2005 Jean Georges Moulin-à-Vent
France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent
Full cherry red. In the nose open, very fine, slightly dark, but also with light notes of red currant, fresh spring herbs, slight green notes. On the palate, nicely woven, fills the mouth, good acidity, some Cassis. Quite close to Burgundy in style.
Red
2005 Paul Janin et Fils Moulin-à-Vent "Cuvee Seduction"
France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent
Dark cherry red with quite some viscosity. In the nose blackberries, floral notes (lilacs, roses), wet earth, small dark berries, raspberries and wet stone. In the beginning also some melted butter. Quite a lot going on. On the palate, this is mineralic and juicy, silky in the finish. This improves a lot with air and the melted butter notes go away with time. Some people on the table were repelled by such buttery notes though.
Flight 2 - Clos de MEZ Fleurie La Dot Mini-Vertical (3 notes)
2006 was the first vintage of Marie-Elodie Zighera-Confuron at Clos de MEZ and we had 2007 to 2009. 2007 was very Fleurie in character and ready to drink. 2008 was fairly shut down, as was 2009, but the 2009 was truly great nonetheless. 2008 and 2009 seemed more like Morgons with their very dark fruit profile and their quite massive structure and the tannins. This is a wine I'll need to buy every year.
Red
2007 Clos de Mez Fleurie La Dot
France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Shiny cherry red. In the nose, there's cassis, meaty notes, plums, some fresh tobacco. It's feminine and very agreeable. On the palate, it's very finely woven with pretty acidity, slight stony-mineralic notes, raspberries. A little dusty in the back end, but with juiciness and power. Very long. Great. Perfect for immediate consumption, not much to wait for.
Red
2008 Clos de Mez Fleurie La Dot
France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Dark purplish red. In the nose an orgy of cassis, very focuseed, incredibly tight, like a laser beam. On the palate, it's quite rough, very adstringend, but also clear and very mineralic. Rather short finish. Not as seductive as the 2007, but great potential. The substance is there, clarity and precision as well. But this needs to ease down a little bit, it's quite wound up right now. 89 with a fat plus.
Red
2009 Clos de Mez Fleurie La Dot
France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Colour like cassis juice. In the nose, pure cassis, lots of it. This wine is dark and brooding, monolithic, stony, a little herbal. It seems almost evil and has so much energy and tension. Incredible. There are light overtones of red currant, too, though. Some sunbeams coming through the dark clouds though. On the palate, cassis again, wonderful minerality, some coffee, slightly bitter notes. The acidity is there, but you hardly notice it. A lot of extract, fine tannins. Long. This is not very typical for Fleurie, more Morgon in character, but a great wine nonetheless.
Flight 3 - Passot Family 2009 Morgons (3 notes)
Next we had three different Morgons from Passot-Collonge/Passot Les Rampaux. It was schistous granite (Charmes) vs. Schiste (Côte du Py) vs. Rocks (Douby). The Douby was maybe a little harmless, compared to the Charmes and the Côte du Py. The latter showed why Côte du Py is regarded as the best climat in Morgon. Its structure, purity and precision was not reached by the two other wines.
Red
2009 Domaine Passot Morgon Les Rampaux Douby
France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Dark cherry red. In the nose silvery, slightly metallic, dark fruit, lots of blackberry, some reduction. Very monolithic, not very giving. On the palate, equally dark fruity as in the nose, small black berries, slightly spicy, a little bitter (elderberry juice). Soft acidity, fairy short finish. Nice, but not outstanding.
Red
2009 Domaine Passot-Collonge Morgon Les Charmes
France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Dark cherry red. Very expressive in the nose, small black berries, stony, granite-marble style coolness, some black cherry. On the palate, this is juicy, cool again, has good drinking flow. Lots of cherry, it's very clear and has nice high notes. A lot better than the Douby from the same year, but not as good as the Côte du Py.
Red
2009 Domaine Passot-Collonge Morgon Côte du Py
France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Very dark colour. In the nose, fairly restrained, extremely dark. Cherry, Cassis. On the palate, it's juicy, has cherry aromas, it's got a dense, but silky texture and is very concentrated and long. Lots of class, lots of potential. Great stuff.
Flight 4 - 2009 Brouilly/Côte de Brouilly (3 notes)
Here we had three very different wines, the Descombes very classic, pure, juicy and excellent to drink, the Bouland ripe, lush, voluptuous and sweet, but in a very positive way, the Thivin not at all ready to drink, somehow incoherent at the moment and with need for further cellaring.
Red
2009 Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly Le Clos Bertrand
France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly
Lightish cherry red. In the nose, there are violets, geraniums, strong floral notes, some lemon peel, toasted breat, plums and forest berries. Lots of elements, but not a coherent picture. On the palate, there's red currant, blackberry, fairly furry tannins, acidity that stings a bit, blackberry liqueur notes. The different elements don't fit together, but there's lots of substance to come together at some point in time. Wait.
Red
2009 Daniel Bouland Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Mélanie
France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly
Dark purplish red. In the nose, this starts out a little closed down, then it's almost explosive with cassis, elderberry, fresh juicy plums and a certain meatiness. Very ripe, but great. On the palate, it's quite complex, very deep, fairly fine and with a certain sweetness that seems to be carried by alcohol. Lots of extract and concentraction, but everything in balance and with great drinkability. Sweet finish. Beautiful, but nothing for people who don't like lush and opulent Gamay.
Red
2009 Georges Descombes Brouilly
France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Brouilly
Full cherry red. In the nose, there's some green pepper, there are vegetal elements, there's red currant and cherry, some smoke and some Griottines. Very inviting and friendly. On the palate, it's super juicy with nice acidity, it's deep and it expands in the mouth. A great, fully ripe, friendly and juicy Brouilly. Ready to drink.
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