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Doing Well by Doing Good: A Private Dinner for a Wonderful Cause
A Private Home in Bel Air
Tasted April 17, 2014 by JonnyG with 649 views
Introduction
Three of us joined to form the winning bid for an exquisite wine dinner in the private cellar of a longtime friend of ours, all to raise money for LA Team Mentoring, a truly worthy cause. We knew we would be treated to some extraordinary wines, but the host outdid himself. Everything was from 750's save for a 375 of the Yquem, and shared amongst the six fortunate attendees.
Flight 1 - With Passed Appetizers (2 notes)
Rosé - Sparkling
1989 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut Rosé
90 points
Advanced and starting to fade, with notable oxidation, but still very pleasant. A dense, heavy wine. Notes of mild caramel, wet wool and yeast.
White
2010 Peter Michael Sauvignon Blanc L'Apres-Midi
93 points
Grassy typicity on the nose, with rich notes of lemon curd and fig. Tremendous acidity, actually out of balance in my view. There was a slight oxidized aspect to the finish, that might have blown off over time, had we lingered. I have to say this may have been served too young, strange as that may seem.
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Flight 2 - First Course (2 notes)
Little Gem and Arugula Salad
Burrata Cheese, Pea Shoots, Wild Mushrooms & Sugar Snap Peas
White
2006 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard
93 points
Fully evolved at this point, and arguably lacking a spark of acidity. Lovely oily texture, with a nose of tart lemon. Powerful stone fruit and spice, with good minerality. No noticeable oak. Touch comp versus the Montrachet with which it as paired.
White
2008 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Montrachet
96 points
An absolutely stellar, balanced and enticing bottle. A ripe, floral nose of underripe peaches, spice and citrus gives way to a muscular, weighty wine. Toasted marshmallow, almonds, citrus and spice. Impressive texture, almost chewy.
Flight 3 - Second Course (2 notes)
Grilled Lemon Marinated California Swordfish & Fresh Gremolata Herb Sauce
Red
2007 Marcassin Pinot Noir Blue-Slide Ridge Vineyard
91 points
Broad-shouldered and a touch overripe, with clean berries on the palate. A bit one-dimensional but still quite impressive.
Red
1996 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot
95 points
In a beautiful place, youthful but balanced. Spiced cherry on the nose, and maybe some forest floor notes. Concentrated layers of ripe, dark berries on the palate, and well-integrated oak. Firm grippiness on the lengthy finish.
Flight 4 - Third Course (3 notes)
Grilled Rib Eye Steak with Cabernet Wine Sauce
Red
2001 Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon
93 points
For some reason, this treasure of a bottle never blossomed on this night. The legendary purity and balance was evident, but the flavor profile was quite muted despite a lengthy decant. The nose evidenced licorice and dark fruit aromas. There was a notable lack of intensity on the palate despite the thick mouthfeel. Very concentrated but a clipped finish, relative to expectations anyway.
Red
1998 Henschke Shiraz Hill of Grace
96 points
My first Hill of Grace, and I am thrilled to say it was a revelatory wine indeed! Intense, unrelenting blueberry notes spring from the glass. That enticing perfume is complemented by layers of spice, balanced oak and rich fruit. Smooth, sweet tannins emerge on the lengthy finish. Not the most complex wine, but neither does it come off as extracted. An elegant beauty in my book.
Red
1998 Château Cheval Blanc
96 points
A weighty, seamless powerhouse of a wine, which needed more time to open but nevertheless displayed impressive, complex layers of silky dark fruit and herbal notes along with some spice and smooth tannins. Though still restrained and youthful, the wine is lush and sexy -- ooh, that velvety texture...
Flight 5 - Dessert (2 notes)
Strawberry Rhubarb Compote
Red - Fortified
1963 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage
95 points
Tremendous strength and vibrancy. Benefitted from a several hour decant. Violets and vanilla on the nose. A rich, velvety mouthfeel. Intense and complex waves of spice and fruit flavor profiles, with a smooth, sweet finish of caramel and salty mocha, with zero sediment and no astringency.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1975 Château d'Yquem
98 points
Amazing concentration, with lush and virtually infinite layers of flavor: smoky crème brulee, honeyed fruits, coconut and a touch of marzipan, among many notes. Precise and powerful. Will only get better.
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Closing
It is hard to pick a WOTN given the diversity we tasted, but setting scores aside, it is the Henschke to which my mind keeps returning every time.