2008 base. Very fresh, pure, clean, not at all aggressive yet with a crisp bite. Bready notes on the finish.

Deeper, richer, more vertical than the Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru (2008 base). More aggressive mousse. Mineral to the point of earthy (in a good way), savoury.

Almost nothing on the nose. Fruiter yet drier than the 2005 Brut Premier Cru, firm and solid yet with a creamy richness.

Creamy, almost vanilla, very fresh. Apparently good match for sushi/sashimi.

Apparently 9 years in the cellars, and fanatical efforts to avoid any oxidation, supporting the freshness of the house style.

From magnum, 40% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 25% Pinor Meunier, based on 2005 with 25% from reserve wines. Rich yet fresh; very biscuity.

From magnum, 2009 base. Red fruits & biscuits.

50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir, 2007 base. Disgorged in Nov 2013, so very fine mousse, leading with minerality rather than fizz. Parcels grown on chalk soils. Salinity & tension.

From magnum. 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir. Warm year, giving roundness and generosity, would be good with food. For a gourmand.

100% Grand Cru Chardonnay. Toasty, delicacy, very soft with delicate fizz yet very structured.

Chosen by the host as representative. Very soft and welcoming, only a hint of smoke, no aggression, very soft tannins.

From a single vineyard. Iron, stone, graphite, more body than the Grifalco Aglianico 2011

Selection of the oldest parcels. More tannic and heavier.

Enticing nose of sweet red/black fruits, vanilla. Initially soft on the palate to the point of invisible, with depth and structure coming up from the bottom into a long finish. VG.

Black fruit nose, the age clearly giving more complexity of aroma and taste than the 2009, but less generous and welcoming, more austere.

50% Merlot, 30% Cab Franc, 20% Syrah. Red fruit and earth, lush softness of the merlot with a dark finish.

100% Cabernet Franc. Darker nose, deeper, blacker on the palate than the Bolgheri Rosso 2012 - licorice/tar with a red-fruit wrapper.

100% merlot; soft, lush, plush, gentle.

Blackcurrant, slightly hot, very tannic yet so soft at the start.

55% Nielluccio, 45% Syrah.