Full yellow with a touch of amber. Faint caramel and bitter citrus. Full bodied, moderately yeasty, some toast and the early appearance of secondary, mature Champagne notes. Probably in an optimal drinking window now.

Yellow. Peach and a hint of petrol. Again, very densely packed and dry with more citrus than stone fruit-in fact, even some grapefruit at the end, which is a flavor I hadn't encountered before in this wine. As I have noticed over the past few years, this is now well beyond its "baby fat" years where it showed more like a Vendange Tardive wine and now resembles an Austrian Smaragd from the likes of Pichler. Not extraordinary now but definitely continuing to unfold and develop.

Slightly muddled ruby. A brief whiff of funk and then bark and tobacco. Medium weight but good glyceral, mouth coating feel. Ripe but not sweet, and nice background mix of herbs and leather. My sense is that this could still improve and resolve some of its tannin, with fruit that is deep and strong enough to last at least 2 or 3 more years while this happens.

Golden amber color. A bit musty at first, but that rapidly blew off. Not as honeyed as a bottle I had some 4 years ago. Pear and orange scents. Quite sweet, round feel, excellent acidity but somehow, not as exciting or as complex as it seemed then. Given the initial aromatics, I can't help but wonder whether this bottle was slightly off, accounting for it being a little muted. Still an excellent experience overall for a 25 year old dessert wine.