Light straw. Very smoky and reduced bouquet. The palate leads one to Chablis, due to the sharp acid, but the heavily toasted oak seems out of keeping, for the style. The fruit is clean and bright and tails off a bit on the finish but overall, this has heaps of character and could be outstanding with food.

Quite developed but still looking really young. Oaky and juicyfruit notes on the nose and palate. Out of a cold cellar, this is not DOA, although drying slightly. There is a certain unctuous texture that is appealing. Tough to pick blind, ultimately the Fume Blanc melons and herbs win out over some vaguely aromatic qualities. Most likely better 5 years ago, but still a very good wine (in this condition).

Fine example of a Burgundy in a challenging and hot vintage. The wine's fruit is not stewed, but there are hints of port and a slight translucent aspect to the fruit. The tannic structure is verging on rough, but this, combined with some exotic aromatics, add up to a wine of great character and plenty of nuance. Drunk before a Turley Petit Syrah, this had far less polish but far greater complexity. I can see why many would not admire the wine because of its slightly feral nature, but I consider it outstanding, considering it a true and successful representation of the vintage.

Drunk blind, next to a S. Esmonin Gevrey, this was clearly from NZ. I thought the candied and rich cherry fruit suggested Central Otago, but was incorrect. Whilst the wine has that confectionary quality, it is also a wine that is very complex and has developed some wonderful dark, leathery and earthy overtones. As supple as the Gevrey was tough, and as sweet as the Gevrey was savory. This was close to equivalent in quality but wildly different in style. This has great balance, beautiful pinot fruit intensity and a lingering finish. I have always liked this particular bottling of Escarpment and it is great to see it aging so well.

Still black-purple - hardly any age apparent. Rich, blackberry liqueur, chocolate, subtle and integrated oak-fruit balance. On the palate, very "cult" in style - high alcohol (not hot in any way), ultra polished texture, spectacular mid and late palate authority, with refined blackberry and oak character. There is considerable tannin here, but the fruit is so opulent and refined, that it does not come across as hard in any way. The main issue I have with the wine is that it is monolithic in personality. I am not sure how age will bring nuance. My feeling is this will endure, but it might not transform. It is a (delicious) one-note wonder that convinces on its voluptuous and over-the-top quality.