Académie des Cinquante Moselle / Ahr Tasting

Restaurant De Burgemeester *, Linschoten, Netherlands

Tasted March 19, 2016 by Xavier Auerbach with 155 views

Flight 1 - Moselle Kabinett / Spätlese (4 notes)

White
2009 Kees-Kieren Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett ** Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
88 points
Fresh, juicy, light but with decent intensity, forward, fruity, supple, delicately sweet, smoky slate, quite easy but attractive.
White - Off-dry
2009 Kerpen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese * Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
89 points
A flowing and easy Spätlese, slightly less sweet than the Kees-Kieren Kabinett that preceded it, lovely minerality and freshness, aromatic green herbs, good length.
White
2009 Egon Müller/Le Gallais Wiltinger Braune Kupp Riesling Kabinett Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
91 points
Pure, precise, mineral and elegant, light as a feather but intense, steely Saar acidity even in this riper vintage, beautifully balanced, real finesse and length.
White - Off-dry
1991 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
92 points
Versteigerung, AP 14. Magnum. Light golden colour; wonderful, intense nose, smoky, hint of petrol, lime, toast, bottle age; good intensity on the palate, lime and slate, lovely acidity, subtle bitters, slightly light and short on the finish.

Flight 2 - Ahr Spätburgunder (4 notes)

Red
2013 Kreuzberg Spätburgunder Unplugged trocken Germany, Ahr
86 points
Light and slightly drying style, could do with a bit more ripe fruit, unripe red cherries, slightly smoky, stiff.
Red
2014 J.J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder No. 2 Germany, Ahr
85 points
Extremely light in every respect, floral, cherries hint of bubble gum, spicy slate, drying finish. Innocuous.
Red
2014 Meyer-Näkel Spätburgunder Blauschiefer Germany, Ahr
88 points
Very closed at this stage, autistic almost, drying, uncommunicative, cherries, seems well balanced, good length. Starts to become a little more expressive after a few hours. Needs two to three years.
Red
2012 Jean Stodden Spätburgunder "JS" Germany, Ahr
89 points
Typical Stodden style, smoky minerality, pipe tobacco, just a hint of green, good fruit, supported by some warmth from older wood. Good potential.

Flight 3 - Ahr Spätburgunder GG (4 notes)

Red
2013 Deutzerhof Spätburgunder Grand Duc Germany, Ahr
90 points
Solid Spätburgunder, quite toasty oak with a burnt edge, ripe fruit but quite firm tannins, well balanced, good length. Needs time.
Red
2012 J.J. Adeneuer Walporzheimer Gärkammer Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs Germany, Ahr
89 points
Very light colour, seems evolved already; light but intense style, undergrowth, intense and mineral, smoke and slate, persistent. A very individual style?
Red
2013 Meyer-Näkel Walporzheimer Kräuterberg Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs Germany, Ahr
93 points
Seductive, velvety, gobs of ripe fruit, perfectly integrated, lightly toasted oak, blue berries and cherries, perfectly structured and balanced, will develop its complexity over the next five to seven years. Wonderful.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2012 Jean Stodden Recher Herrenberg Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs Germany, Ahr
92 points
Quite a Burgundian style, structured, cool and mineral, low toast oak needs a a few more years to integrate, masculine and linear, long. Reminiscent of a Côte de Nuits Premier Cru.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 4 - Moselle Auslese (4 notes)

White - Off-dry
2010 Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Bernkasteler Alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Auslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
88 points
Quite sweet and sugary, slightly sweaty, pear, has acidity but seems a bit disjointed.
White - Off-dry
2010 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Auction #3 Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
96 points
Versteigerung. AP 3. Intense and fresh, very concentrated, almost electric energy, tropical fruit, fabulous acidity, perfect balance, long. Stunning.
White - Off-dry
2002 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel #9 Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
94 points
AP 9. Extremely elegant, deep but dancing, filigree, complex, apricot, hint of wax, wonderfully pure and fresh, a study in finesse and elegance.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Off-dry
1989 Schloss Saarstein Serriger Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Auslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
93 points
Magnum. Fully evolved colour, rich orange gold; complex nose, cold tea, honey and Firne; intense and powerful palate, slightly low acidity, firm bitters, light but long finish. Needs drinking, even in this format.

Flight 5 - Lunch (7 notes)

White
2014 Erben von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies'chen Im Taubenberg Riesling trocken Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
88 points
Grosses Gewächs. Characteristic Ruwer lightness, floral, elegant composition, nice balance but the bitters are slightly dominant.
Red
2013 Kreuzberg Dernauer Hardtberg Frühburgunder Großes Gewächs Germany, Ahr
88 points
Lively cherry colour, medium intense; spices and liquorice, too rough and coarse to represent the characteristic finesse of the grape variety, bitters on the finish.
Red
2012 Kreuzberg Dernauer Hardtberg Frühburgunder Großes Gewächs Germany, Ahr
91 points
Much finer style than 2013, gentle and elegant, supple, fresh, lovely hint of smoky oak, medium weight, lovely length.
Red
2013 Jean Stodden Ahrweiler Rosenthal Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs Germany, Ahr
92 points
A wine of real elegance and finesse, precise and linear, light but ripe red berries, subtle phenolics from the skins, floral, Burgundian style, spices, good length.
2 people found this helpful Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
2006 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
95 points
Complete, honey and flowers, rich and pure, deep and harmonious, tightly wound, supremely elegant, tropical fruit, intense yet wonderfully refined, subtle volatile acidity.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Weingut Werner & Sohn Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Eiswein Auction Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
91 points
Deeper colour than the Fritz Haag BA 2006 that preceded it; baked apple, mountain air, intense and sweet, juicy acidity, a bit one-dimensional, apple and spiced pear, lovely length.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2006 Rebenhof Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Auction Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
93 points
Sweet, rich, tropical, youthful, concentrated but not really big - an elegant TBA rather.
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