An Evening with Francois Audouze
67 Pall Mall
Tasted April 12, 2016 by RayOB with 714 views
Introduction
A truly exceptional evening with Francois Audouze trying some wines from his cellar over dinner.
Flight 1 - Champagne & White (5 notes)
What can I say but the 1947 Pol Roger was probably the best champagne I have tasted.
White - Sparkling
1947 Pol Roger Champagne Vintage Brut
France, Champagne
It was a monster of vivacity and energy and belies its age. A crystal clear golden hue with a faint nose of dates, prunes, figs and nuts. The palate is just incredible with a freshness and balance that keeps going. WOW
Rosé - Sparkling
1995 Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé P2
France, Champagne
Richard Geoffroy brought a bottle of this along and it was wonderful to compare. Very young and fresh with a nose of raspberry, apple, brioche and flowers. Delicate light palate with a lovely finish.
Flight 2 - Bordeaux (2 notes)
As Francois will tell you: "You should always have Bordeaux before Burgundy as it is the head then the heart"
Red
1961 Château Cheval Blanc
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Nose of mushrooms earth and forest floor. It had been opened 4hrs earlier using the Audouue method but it was disjointed on the palate. It just was not right.
Flight 3 - Burgundy (3 notes)
The 1984 Henri Jayer was my wine of the night and was just singing.
Red
1984 Henri Jayer Echezeaux
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Now I know why people love Henri Jayer so much. It is incredibly bourguignon with subtleties that play with the palate. Seductive, smooth, complex, charming, lifting and amazing depth. WOW. How do I get another bottle?
Red
1970 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único
Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
Young and vibrant like it was 5 years old. This really is a remarkable vintage of Unico with no sense of ageing whatsoever. Primary fruits on the nose with a silky smooth palate with get acidic depth and clarity. Lovely.
Flight 4 - Sauternes (2 notes)
The nose on the 1914 was nothing short of spectacular.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1985 Château d'Yquem
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Still very young and will be better in 10 years. Nose of burnt sugar, honey, orange peel and apricot. Polished balanced palate if a little bit on the sweet side. Lovely.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1914 Château d'Arche Crème de Tête
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Incredible nose of wild flowers and lightly honeyed sugars that Francois was enthralled by. Let me refer to Francois at this point:
"It reminds me of my 4th dinner where we had remained frozen to the scent of a Suduiraut 1928 which forbade us to drink as if rattlesnakes had tetanized us. The emotion is the same with this wine of an incredible seduction with a thousand perfumes. The image I form small grains of sugar soaked in red fruit that we would throw in the air as we throw rice grains on a just married couple."
Closing
As usual Francois asked each of us to score the wines with the votes coming out as
1. 1914 Chateau d’Arche Crème de Tête
2. 1947 Champagne Pol Roger
3. 1984 Henri Jayer Echezeaux
4. 1970 Vega Sicilia Unico
5. 1945 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
I hope to see Francois again soon back at 67 Pall Mall so we can try again the Audouze method (4 hr prior to drinking open cork, leave upright and no decant)
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